Help. My chrysler 300 wont start..

[99BlackSVTvenom]

It is too hard to tell from a video what might be wrong. It is not going to be an alternator because it has juice and still would not start. An alternator also has nothing to do with helping your vehicle to start besides providing a charge to your battery which only happens when you are idling or driving. You need to check for fuel pressure and spark. Those are your two basic beginning places for resolving a no start. If you have another key try that as well because it is possible but unlikely that the key can lose its programmed code. Also I saw previously mentioned to try starting the car in neutral (give it a try). If you can run any of these tests and then repost the results it might help.

 

[Blown02]

ill try some of the things i found here later.. im not much of a mechanic.. i know how to swap a transmission, rearend,etc. but dont know some of the basics like how to check fuel pressure, how to know if a fuse is blown, etc. hopefully my friend knows more than I do

Thanks guys, I appreciate the help!

 

[ririck]

Im guessing alternator also.

 

[Blown02]

really? a lot of people say its absolutely NOT the alternator.. how would I know if it is or isnt the alternator?

thanks!

 

[BrianP]

i would check the battery in your key fob.

My mothers Magnum wouldnt start one day,but it could turn over all day. for shits an giggles i tried the spare key an it started.

If the battery in it goes dead, the computer wont recognize the chip in the key and it wont start.

 

[ThinkTwice]

My 300C will start using the spare key which doesn't have the integrated FOB to lock/unlock the doors. The computer chip doesn't use a battery.

 

[ModularFan]

The Alternator should read between 12-13 volts, it very well could be the alternator.

 

[ModularFan]

It is too hard to tell from a video what might be wrong. It is not going to be an alternator because it has juice and still would not start. An alternator also has nothing to do with helping your vehicle to start besides providing a charge to your battery which only happens when you are idling or driving. You need to check for fuel pressure and spark. Those are your two basic beginning places for resolving a no start. If you have another key try that as well because it is possible but unlikely that the key can lose its programmed code. Also I saw previously mentioned to try starting the car in neutral (give it a try). If you can run any of these tests and then repost the results it might help.

Come again? Never heard of such a thing? :nonono: OP do your idiot lights come on, when you turn to accessories?

 

[mooses]

How did you test the battery? Did you just use a multimeter or did you take it to an auto parts store and have it load tested?

 

[ford_racer]

alternator

Im guessing alternator also.

The Alternator should read between 12-13 volts, it very well could be the alternator.

Jesus Christ! I can't believe people on a CAR forum are suggesting this. Do you guys not know what alternators do?

Alternators maintain the battery. They do not aid in starting the car, they do not provide power to anything. They maintain the battery.

Keep in mind, most newer cars will not start if there is a connection issue with the alternator, such as a loose, corroded, or fried wire, but this doesn't mean the alternator is bad.

You guys are recommending a $200 dollar part that isn't going to fix anything based on absolutely NO knowledge of cars (or so it sounds).

It is too hard to tell from a video what might be wrong. It is not going to be an alternator because it has juice and still would not start. An alternator also has nothing to do with helping your vehicle to start besides providing a charge to your battery which only happens when you are idling or driving. You need to check for fuel pressure and spark. Those are your two basic beginning places for resolving a no start. If you have another key try that as well because it is possible but unlikely that the key can lose its programmed code. Also I saw previously mentioned to try starting the car in neutral (give it a try). If you can run any of these tests and then repost the results it might help.

Thank you! I'm glad someone on this forum understands the basics of cars!

OP, if your starter is turning over the vehicle, then that is not it. That's it's only purpose on your car.

The neutral safety switch was a good suggestion, but if it were this, it wouldn't allow the car to crank.

You have a problem with one or more of the 3 things that cause combustion:

Spark
Fuel
Air

Unless your intake system, specifically you're air filter, is completely clogged with gunk, it's pretty much certain it's not this.

Here's a few suggestions:

One or more coils - Most cars will start and run shitty with one coil missing, or even two, but some don't.

Plugs - If you're plugs are ****ed, than they won't be able to spark, and you won't be able to ignite the air/fuel charge, resulting in a no start issue. However, as with coils, the car can still run on 1 or more bad ones.

Fuel filter - If it's plugged you won't get any or enough fuel, resulting in no start

Fuel pump - As 99SVTvenom recommended, a fuel pressure test will help a lot. You could simply undo the fuel filter and have someone turn the key to the on position and see if any fuel is pumped out, but it's best to get a standard test done. A fuel pump needs to provide a certain amount of pressure (usually around 45-90 pounds, depending on the car). If it's less than this, but still has some pressure (maybe 20 or so) the car won't start. Taking off the fuel filter will show that the pump is still pumping, but you won't be able to tell at what pressure it is running.

Injectors - Pretty rare, esp on a newer car, but it could happen.

Ignition/Main computer - If you're computer is ****ed, it won't allow the injectors to inject, or the coils to fire.


I recommend doing a fuel pressure test first. A Chilton's manual should tell you how, and an auto parts store should either rent, or sell, the kit to do it.

If everything is good there, you need to start checking spark, which can be somewhat tricky (thanks to the computer thing).


Alternators only work while the motor is running. Otherwise it is not doing a damn thing.

Come again? Never heard of such a thing? OP do your idiot lights come on, when you turn to accessories?

Every time you post in a thread giving advice you are wrong. You should really consider taking a year off to just read the board and not ever post.

 

[ModularFan]

Every time you post in a thread giving advice you are wrong. You should really consider taking a year off to just read the board and not ever post.

I forgot Auto parts guys know everything there is to know about cars. If that's the case, maybe they should tune car's for the half the price of performance shops? Maybe I should mention that to the President or CEO of Advanced Auto, Auto Zone, or NAPA etc. thanks.

 

[stangin99]

Engines need 3 things to start.

Fuel, Air, Spark. Compression is on that list but that won't keep it from starting.

Spark, you can simply disconnect a plug wire, put it on the engine block or other large grounded metal area, and start the car. If it sparks, it sparks.

Fuel, check if you have fuel pressure at the fuel line/rail. There is usually a schrader valve you can check that will spit out fuel if there is pressure behind it.

Air, well, make sure the TB is opening. Hard to screw this one up unless your boosting.

 

[ford_racer]

I forgot Auto parts guys know everything there is to know about cars. If that's the case, maybe they should tune car's for the half the price of performance shops? Maybe I should mention that to the President or CEO of Advanced Auto, Auto Zone, or NAPA etc. thanks.

Don't be a ****ing retard. You are recommending that he replaces something that is of no use UNTIL THE CAR IS STARTED!

That's along the same lines as recommending a starter be replaced because a car won't idle for longer than 20 seconds.

Also no longer an auto parts guy. I'm a college student now. Jealous?

 

[black99lightnin]

Jesus Christ! I can't believe people on a CAR forum are suggesting this. Do you guys not know what alternators do?

Alternators maintain the battery. They do not aid in starting the car, they do not provide power to anything. They maintain the battery.

Keep in mind, most newer cars will not start if there is a connection issue with the alternator, such as a loose, corroded, or fried wire, but this doesn't mean the alternator is bad.

You guys are recommending a $200 dollar part that isn't going to fix anything based on absolutely NO knowledge of cars (or so it sounds).



Thank you! I'm glad someone on this forum understands the basics of cars!

OP, if your starter is turning over the vehicle, then that is not it. That's it's only purpose on your car.

The neutral safety switch was a good suggestion, but if it were this, it wouldn't allow the car to crank.

You have a problem with one or more of the 3 things that cause combustion:

Spark
Fuel
Air

Unless your intake system, specifically you're air filter, is completely clogged with gunk, it's pretty much certain it's not this.

Here's a few suggestions:

One or more coils - Most cars will start and run shitty with one coil missing, or even two, but some don't.

Plugs - If you're plugs are ****ed, than they won't be able to spark, and you won't be able to ignite the air/fuel charge, resulting in a no start issue. However, as with coils, the car can still run on 1 or more bad ones.

Fuel filter - If it's plugged you won't get any or enough fuel, resulting in no start

Fuel pump - As 99SVTvenom recommended, a fuel pressure test will help a lot. You could simply undo the fuel filter and have someone turn the key to the on position and see if any fuel is pumped out, but it's best to get a standard test done. A fuel pump needs to provide a certain amount of pressure (usually around 45-90 pounds, depending on the car). If it's less than this, but still has some pressure (maybe 20 or so) the car won't start. Taking off the fuel filter will show that the pump is still pumping, but you won't be able to tell at what pressure it is running.

Injectors - Pretty rare, esp on a newer car, but it could happen.

Ignition/Main computer - If you're computer is ****ed, it won't allow the injectors to inject, or the coils to fire.


I recommend doing a fuel pressure test first. A Chilton's manual should tell you how, and an auto parts store should either rent, or sell, the kit to do it.

If everything is good there, you need to start checking spark, which can be somewhat tricky (thanks to the computer thing).


Alternators only work while the motor is running. Otherwise it is not doing a damn thing.



Every time you post in a thread giving advice you are wrong. You should really consider taking a year off to just read the board and not ever post.

agreed. Lot of misinformation in this thread. This being a Daimler/Chrysler product I'm leaning towards a crank sensor. But really you need to take the car to the dealer. This is a complex vehicle and cannot be fully diagnosed via the internet.:shrug:

 

[BuckChoklit]

I forgot Auto parts guys know everything there is to know about cars. If that's the case, maybe they should tune car's for the half the price of performance shops? Maybe I should mention that to the President or CEO of Advanced Auto, Auto Zone, or NAPA etc. thanks.

Since when does an alternator start the car? Or have ANYTHING to do with starting a car?

 

[James Snover]

Since Chrysler got into OBD-II, I guess. I have an '04 Dodge Intrepid with the 3.5 V6. When the battery is dead, the car _will not_ run on the alternator. I have never seen anything like it in a modern vehicle, and I do not know why. But I do know, at least with my Dodge, that a dead battery will look and act just like a dead alternator.

I have been through two batteries in the 247,000 miles I have had this '04, and both times it acted the same. Battery won't start the car. Get a jump start. As soon as the cables are disconnected, the car dies. Put in a new battery, car runs fine for a few years, and if you check the alternator output all is well.

Don't ask me why. But I will bet you the OP's car is made the same way.

OP, my advice, get a battery.

Jim Snover

Since when does an alternator start the car? Or have ANYTHING to do with starting a car?

 

[ModularFan]

Also no longer an auto parts guy. I'm a college student now. Jealous?

What's there to be jealous of? I am a college student as well! don't understand where that comes into play!

 

[black99lightnin]

Since Chrysler got into OBD-II, I guess. I have an '04 Dodge Intrepid with the 3.5 V6. When the battery is dead, the car _will not_ run on the alternator. I have never seen anything like it in a modern vehicle, and I do not know why. But I do know, at least with my Dodge, that a dead battery will look and act just like a dead alternator.

I have been through two batteries in the 247,000 miles I have had this '04, and both times it acted the same. Battery won't start the car. Get a jump start. As soon as the cables are disconnected, the car dies. Put in a new battery, car runs fine for a few years, and if you check the alternator output all is well.

Don't ask me why. But I will bet you the OP's car is made the same way.

OP, my advice, get a battery.

Jim Snover

Except the car CRANKS. It obviously has battery/alternator power. Since we're guessing, I'm guessing crank sensor. That will give you a spin no start concern. They go out all the time on MB's, and since this is a combo car, it probably uses MB electronics.

 

[ModularFan]

Except the car CRANKS. It obviously has battery/alternator power. Since we're guessing, I'm guessing crank sensor. That will give you a spin no start concern. They go out all the time on MB's, and since this is a combo car, it probably uses MB electronics.

Daimler no longer own's chrysler.

On August 3, 2007, DaimlerChrysler completed the sale of Chrysler Group to Cerberus Capital Management. The original agreement stated that Cerberus would take an 80.1 percent stake in the new company, Chrysler Holding LLC. DaimlerChrysler changed its name to Daimler AG and retained the remaining 19.9% stake in the separated Chrysler.

Although I believe they still share the Blu-tec diesel's in the MB's and Jeep Grand Cherokee's.

 

[Blown02]

this is so weird.. i got home and primed it by turning the key 5x, but not all the way and then cranked it over.. started right up.. this was advice i was given from someone..

does this mean its a fluke or that the fuel pump is on its way out or?

thanks!!!


btw it cranked over and over again, running perfectly.. no check engine light or anything..