Recent content by FortLewisCobra

I started off planning to rebuild a leaky oil cooler and the "while I'm in there's" ended with me taking off the timing cover to replace the tensioners (both seals were blown and it only occasionally rattled on start up fyi). Unfortunately the timing cover took the front of the oil pan gasket...

I looked briefly and gave up then did the x2 swap and could not tell a difference in steering resistance. I don't think the factory ones were a significant improvement over a normal ball joint.

Thanks that's good info! I've read innovate has some good features but can be hit an miss with a lot of complaints about sensors going bad. I'll have to check out AEMs widebands.

I hope? According to the LC-2 user guide you can specify a specific voltage and lambda for the min and max of the range which implies it can be set to give 1.1 volts at 1.5 lambda (22.5 AFR) but I haven't found where anyone has actually done it. I looked for people doing it on here and corral...

Yeah I'm worried the ECU would try to make sense of the signal when all I need is a way to track the voltage and I can set up a custom PID to do the rest. Will it do anything other than throw a CEL for an odd voltage from the rear O2?

Looking at adding a wideband to a 2003 Cobra and sending its signal to the ECU. Obviously this doesn't normally work but I would like a relatively easy way to datalog the wideband's output. What I am considering is going with the Innovate LC-2 and sending use one of its analog outputs to send...

If you just want an oem style pump rock Auto has several non bosch made pumps, Delphi which is pretty reputable. They also have aviator and Ford GT pumps as well.

You can do what I did and simply replace the bearings, easy to find those and they're straight forward to replace.

X2 I filled it to the service manual spec and thought I had the cover gasket blow out there was so much fluid leaking.

https://www.svtperformance.com/threads/useful-diablo-predator-table.813055/ I used a couple of these for custom pids, i don't remember which as it's been a while. You can import a list of ford specific ones as well but they're mainly for diesels.

They're worth doing. I put the MM aluminum ones on years ago and it gave the steering a noticeably more direct feeling. If the steering rack bushings are showing their age then you may want to take a look at the front control arm bushings and ball joints as well, I found one of mine was shot...

I went through this following a dyno day and it was a vacuum leak. The PCV elbow on the back of the blower had failed, I would check there first as it's a common point of failure.

Did you ever verify the inter-cooler pump was working? I may have missed it earlier, but usually that's the first thing everyone goes to when they start boiling off fluid from the reservoir. If it's the pump its a relatively cheap and easy fix. You may want to do it anyways depending on mileage.

https://www.svtperformance.com/threads/attempt-at-a-permanent-alternator-fix.1115584/ 3 Years 10K miles, still getting the same voltage as new on a cheaper V6 alternator. The heat from your exhaust manifold is what kills the alternator. If you don't insulate it or cool it you will eventually...

I'm on a normal single disk, but mine behaved the same when my clutch cable needed adjusting.