Need help! 2v vs 01 cobra 4 valve

Hey guys so I have 2 different paths I can take at this point and I need some help deciding. Before we did in I have a 2003 Mustang GT 5 speed. Has 140K on it. 78mm BBK throttle body. 410 gears. I love this car and WILL NOT sell it for a 2001 cobra. Right now I have the opportunity to buy a 2001 cobra motor that runs for 1000$ comes with exhaust manifolds and everything from intake to pan besides alternator and coolant crossover bar. So the swap would be very cheap. Is it worth it or should I just start dumping money into the old 2 valve. The end goal is a turbo setup. But within a month of having the cobra engine I want to order a NX wet system. Street car only with the occasional 1/8th mile run Thoughts? Any help would be great

slap a blower on the 2v....you can get 400-450whp out of it ...Vortech can be found used pretty easy

nxhappy said:

slap a blower on the 2v....you can get 400-450whp out of it ...Vortech can be found used pretty easy

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That's a couple grand and small gains relativity. Would do nitrous on a 2 valve before that but that's just me. Never been a fan of blowers

The 4V heads have a flow advantage right off the bat. That gives the cobra motor more power potential. For the price I'd say go with the cobra engine. It is a used engine though. If it were me I would spend a few $ and rebuild/recondition it before installing.

I had a v1 on my bullitt and it ran great. Go with the cobra swap if you truly want it, other wise a blower on the 2v at 400whp is the way to go

do k member with the swap wether your going turbo down the road or not

The most important question: What's your power goals?

ks

I would stay 2v. In a FULL weight 01 GT, I had shorty headers, 3.73s, custom tune, set of cheap used cams and consistently ran 12s @ 108+mph. Cam's alone on a 2v make up for the the shortcomings based off of my experience.

If you were staying n/a, or n20 only, go with the 4V.

But if your plan is to go turbo, take that 1g and use it towards a forged bottom end for the 2V. With forged internals and fuel system, a turbo 2V can make quite a bit.

$1000 bucks for a running Cobra motor is a pretty killer deal.

If you want ridiculous horsepower, do the 4 valve swap (thinking ported heads in future). If not, just add a blower.

For 2,000 you can buy trick flow heads and get just as much horsepower out of your 2 valve as a stock 4 valve. Depending on your mechanical experience, that 4 valve swap might not be worth it to you and cost more in hidden parts than you thought.


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If you plan on 500+ get the Cobra motor for block crank and internals that are forged for Cobra to handle more HP you can keep 2v heads and sell the 4v from what I've found a 4v swap isn't all that easy and not a plug and play but I could be wrong but I know Everytime I thought about I looked on what I'd need and decided to stay with a badass 2v for the nay Sayers but the best 2v heads won't flow like the 4v i say something slap them 2v heads on that Cobra block then you still have a 4v (basically and not able to handle same HP as before) you can sell either heads on or separately

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Only thing special about the Cobra bottom end is the forged crank and the aluminum block. Other than that it's no better than the 2V bottom. A cast 2v crank will still take 500+ hp..... it's the rods and pistons that need upgrading.

Right aluminum block and forged internals.... You can sell spare parts but it's up to you... Any and all research found says "The stock crankshaft is a cast-iron piece and is good on applications up to 500hp; anything over that and a forged steel crank is in order. These can be found used as they came stock in the Cobras and can handle 1500hp when cleaned up and machined. The forged crank is a must for any serious build."

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The stock 4.6L engine has a comfort zone of around 425-450 flywheel horsepower. Anything over that, and the rotating assembly could let go and “poof” goes the engine. However the aftermarket provides a host of supporting parts that can easily handle over 1000hp.

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Trickflow heads are the way to go for a 2v though for sure! Combined with cams and aluminum intake manifold headers you can make some pretty good gains combined with good block and forged internals that's my dream start

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Stormtrooper00 said:

Trickflow heads are the way to go for a 2v though for sure! Combined with cams and aluminum intake manifold headers you can make some pretty good gains combined with good block and forged internals that's my dream start

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I have TFS heads and Stage 2 TFS cams with a Bullitt intake and made 353 RWHP with a stock 2V bottom end.
I love my 2V...

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bobby_0081, are you happy with your cam selection? You have the setup I ultimately want, but I will add a supercharger to it. The problem I am having is if the cam is too much for the intake, and also the drivability of it. Do you ever wish you had the smaller trick flow cam?


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Stick with 2 valve motor..... just my 2 cents

I'm not sure the TFS heads suggestion makes sense for the OP financially. They are good heads but very pricey. For what he would spend on those heads he could buy the 4V engine, have it freshened up, and still have more power potential with a fresh engine. (assuming the engine will just need a hone and bearings/rings changed)

Not knocking TFS heads but they do charge a bunch for heads that flow about what well ported PI heads and stock 4V heads do. Not to mention to do them right you need to buy them bare, have the valve seats checked/cut properly, and put higher quality parts in them then then what the assembled ones come with which adds up quick.

Sluggie24 said:

I'm not sure the TFS heads suggestion makes sense for the OP financially. They are good heads but very pricey. For what he would spend on those heads he could buy the 4V engine, have it freshened up, and still have more power potential with a fresh engine. (assuming the engine will just need a hone and bearings/rings changed)

Not knocking TFS heads but they do charge a bunch for heads that flow about what well ported PI heads and stock 4V heads do. Not to mention to do them right you need to buy them bare, have the valve seats checked/cut properly, and put higher quality parts in them then then what the assembled ones come with which adds up quick.

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Can you tell me more about the heads needing to be checked and higher quality components put in? I've never heard that before.


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