Drivers side header install

Robot_trainer · Nov 11, 2018

Im feeling defeated. I got the passenger side in no problem. Drivers side just wont go past the opening between the k frame and bell housing. Tried everything. Jacked the engine up. Even tried to pry the engine over with a 2x4 between the head and shock tower. Whats the trick? What am I missing? Im about to give up and have it towed to a mustang shop. I hear guys are putting thes in by just removing the starter and rear brace. If thats true I must be an idiot. By the way the are kooks 1-3/4

PhoenixM3 · Nov 11, 2018

You disconnected the steering linkage? And, did you remove any of the header studs?

Robot_trainer · Nov 11, 2018

Yes steering shaft is removed. I cant even get it up to where the studs would be. Wont pass between the trans and back of k member

Robot_trainer · Nov 11, 2018

Dip stick is out. Only thing I didnt remove was the mount. Just the nut so I could jack it up. Like I said I cant get it to even come near the engine mount

deepblue13 · Nov 12, 2018

I pulled the mount in the driver side.

Robot_trainer · Nov 12, 2018

deepblue13 said:
I pulled the mount in the driver side.

cant even get that close to the mount. Cant get passed the opening between the trans and cross member (brace is removed). Im starting to think that K member needs to come off. It is Ok to hold the engine up by the oil pan, no?

sleek98 · Nov 12, 2018

I dropped the k member completely when I did the two sets (neither were kooks though). I dont know how anyone could get it in without removing it completely.

Catmonkey · Nov 12, 2018

Robot_trainer said:
It is Ok to hold the engine up by the oil pan, no?

Yes, if it's only the weight of the engine. I used a bottle jack and a piece of 2x4 to spread the load on the oil pan. Have you tried to remove the engine mount bracket? If not, give that a shot before you drop the k-member.

Robot_trainer · Nov 12, 2018

Catmonkey said:
Yes, if it's only the weight of the engine. I used a bottle jack and a piece of 2x4 to spread the load on the oil pan. Have you tried to remove the engine mount bracket? If not, give that a shot before you drop the k-member.

So far i cant even get it anywhere near the mount. Ive convinced myself that the only way this will go is to drop the K memember. Looks straight forward. Can I ask a favour? Can someone with kooks headers take a picture of which tubes the steering shaft goes through? Without the k frame there is no reference. Also can someone take a picture of the egr tube routing? Ive lost my bearings

Robot_trainer · Nov 12, 2018

As far as supporting the engine you say as long as its the engine only. The trans is also attached. I assume you meant eng and trans? Ive used a jack and a 2 x 6 plank before. Just want to make sure Im doing it right

Catmonkey · Nov 12, 2018

Trans is okay. You just don't want to be lifting any weight of the car, by not loosening your engine mounts.

Robot_trainer · Nov 12, 2018

Amen to that!

Tezz500 · Nov 12, 2018

Contact Matt Lepkowski at Performance Evolution. (302) 449-3200
He does all the work on my Shelby. I have the LT Kooks headers installed on mine. Icannot remember exactly what it was that he explained to me regarding the install. but its more in depth than would be assumed.. as you are experiencing.

give him a call. Im sure he can point you in the right direction.

KENS96M6 · Nov 12, 2018

Robot_trainer said:
Im feeling defeated. I got the passenger side in no problem. Drivers side just wont go past the opening between the k frame and bell housing. Tried everything. Jacked the engine up. Even tried to pry the engine over with a 2x4 between the head and shock tower. Whats the trick? What am I missing? Im about to give up and have it towed to a mustang shop. I hear guys are putting thes in by just removing the starter and rear brace. If thats true I must be an idiot. By the way the are kooks 1-3/4

First thing is don't give up. Take a step back and regroup when you feel whipped. That said my header install on the driver side was hell and I had the trans. out. Just take one step at a time. Also remember to install the oil dipstick as the headers are being bolted up. I thing Kooks strongly recommends to remove the k member. Good luck and don't give up.

Robot_trainer · Nov 12, 2018

Thanks man I will do that. Little disadvantaged living in Canada

Robot_trainer · Nov 12, 2018

KENS96M6 said:
First thing is don't give up. Take a step back and regroup when you feel whipped. That said my header install on the driver side was hell and I had the trans. out. Just take one step at a time. Also remember to install the oil dipstick as the headers are being bolted up. I thing Kooks strongly recommends to remove the k member. Good luck and don't give up.

Robot_trainer · Nov 12, 2018

Thanks. I was getting down on myself. Ive done a lot of drag cars over the years. Older ones. This is the first time Ive ever felt this level of frustration. Plus at my age I feel it more lying on the floor. Cross member doesnt look like a big deal after going over the process. I have a couple of old racing buddies to help me out

99VERT · Nov 12, 2018

99VERT · Nov 12, 2018

Might be late but heres a few shots of mine back when I put mine on. K-member out with mounts and mount brackets. They went right in. 1-7/8 even! As for the EGR tube, I left one side loose then connected the other side then tightened them both. Hope this helps.

Coz · Nov 12, 2018

To slightly lift your engine, this may be preferable to jacking it by the oil pan.

Engine Support Beam, 2005-2014 Mustang

You'll also need two ratcheting straps.

Drivers side header install

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