Need advice on degreeing stage 2 comp cams

] Hey Guys,

Looking to swap out my stage 3 comp cams to smaller comp stage 2 cams to make the car more street friendly and help with some high IAT2 temps during idle and stop and go traffic.

What do you guys recommend degreeing the comp stg 2 at? I want to get some negative over lap and wonder what's the best points to set the cams at.

Below is the cam specs,

Thanks

Why not custom cams? Get the negative overlap you want and most performance out of cams for similar price?? If I were to change mine this is what I would do.

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can04cobra said:

Why not custom cams? Get the negative overlap you want and most performance out of cams for similar price?? If I were to change mine this is what I would do.

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That was the original plan, but its 6 week wait right now. Also the cam spec was very similar to the comp stage 2. Their cam spec was DUR AT 050 intake 231 exhaust 235, where the comp stg2 are @.050 intake 230, exhaust 232.

I have a friend who will be remove his stg 2 cams in a few days. Seemed like perfect timing to swap.

What supercharger and which boost bypass are you running with the comp 3 cams? I have same cams with a 2.9 whipple and I understand the drivability issues under 2500 rpm. I'm.vurrwntly waiting for the weather to change so I can see if the L and M bypass valve will help the drivability without having to change cams or re-degree them.

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I run a 2.9 whipple crusher with their low vacuume by pass i believe it opens around 3 or 4 inches of vacuume.

Malcome has a lot of good info on this and only way to fix the issue or address it is by getting some negative overlap. (You loose the aggressive sound)

The comp stg 3 cams are aggressive. I made great power with them 915whp on a 98° day but somtimes I just hate them and kinda regret doing cams on days where I just want to cruise and enjoy the car.

For me I just hate seeing my IAT2 temps in traffic or idle get to 160°, 170° on summer day.. the drivability you kind of get use to it.. but temps suck.

Heres what I come up with for those cam specs:


I would not run a higher intake centerline unless you have a high compresion engine. You lose dynamic compression when the intake valve closes later.

I'm in the same process as you and for the exact same reasons. I'm swapping out some Crower Stage 4's for some Crower Stage 2's. Crower is alot more conservative than Comp with duration though in their stages. I'll be moving from 236/244 duration down to 222/222 and plan to degree them to the manufacturers specs with 110/118 centerlines.

olympic said:

Heres what I come up with for those cam specs:
View attachment 1560805

I would not run a higher intake centerline unless you have a high compresion engine. You lose dynamic compression when the intake valve closes later.

I'm in the same process as you and for the exact same reasons. I'm swapping out some Crower Stage 4's for some Crower Stage 2's. Crower is alot more conservative than Comp with duration though in their stages. I'll be moving from 236/244 duration down to 222/222 and plan to degree them to the manufacturers specs with 110/118 centerlines.

View attachment 1560811

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I believe -5° of overlap would help a bunch.. curious how the LSA of 118 effects things. Most I see keep them between 114 and 116

@03Steve

You'd definitely want his input on this. Not only does he have these same cams degreed in with your same engine combo, but he's also added a lot to cam discussions here and on ModularFords over the years. Separate from drivability concerns you'll experience reversion from the increased overlap and higher IAT2 temps that I'm sure you already have. I can't image that he wouldn't have some valuable input that would help minimize these effects.

Stage 3 comp cams can run and drive perfectly find if you degree them accordingly. No need to swap cams. Personally I shoot for -8 ~ -10 overlap and they drive properly. You can put the stock boost bypass valve actuator back in the car and drive it normal and enjoy.

MalcolmV8 said:

Stage 3 comp cams can run and drive perfectly find if you degree them accordingly. No need to swap cams. Personally I shoot for -8 ~ -10 overlap and they drive properly. You can put the stock boost bypass valve actuator back in the car and drive it normal and enjoy.

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I was playing with the cam chart and plugging different options but to get -8 overlap with the comp stg3 cams it seems like the LSA would be really wide with their @ 0.50 intake 238° and exhaust 240°.

Just curious where would you put them