Have a link to the shifter?You can put in a 6R80 and use the Lokar shifter to manually shift through the gears, I manually shift mine through the cruise control buttons.
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Thanks
Have a link to the shifter?You can put in a 6R80 and use the Lokar shifter to manually shift through the gears, I manually shift mine through the cruise control buttons.
Sent from my iPhone using svtperformance.com
82/85 unless you're running a hot tune and staging it will be no fun on the street. You'll be there making a sandwich while you get gapped by a neon.
Do you or plan to hit up Mexico late on weekend nights?So guys I am debating on going auto or not? I am building a higher c/r 10:5 corba with custom cams to spin 7.5 rpm. I will run a 82/85 mm precision with a 1.24 ar. I will drive it 90% on street and a few times down the 1/8th mile track. So should I do a t56 mag or go with a 4r?
Moreless the knowledge of tuning has advanced. Also talking about streetability as what the op main obj. Also talking about reving a 4 cylinder to 85-9200 rpms. Live zone its 55-6500 or so with a manual trans. Turbo tech hasn't improved much. All the same old tech that is finally being brought up because of cost back in the day. Old racer tech is what you're seeing now.
Like roller bearing in engines/ mains and cam shafts. They had that stuff in the 30-40-50s but was to expensive.
So with everything in debate what is your take on it? With the 82/85mm precision
Nobody is saying that except me, only because I didn’t realize anyone had a manual shifter for the 6r that lets you shift through all the gears! Thats all!why is everyone saying you cant manually shift a 6R? lokar makes shifters. personally, I would go with a 6R all day over a 4R. all my friends ran 4Rs. The 6R IMO wll be faster.
I agree I have research alot and realize what ya are saying. I think from what I gather it depends on your set up. Gears, tranny, tune, rpm, 2 step, anti lag..... So onWhatever you do, don't listen to someone saying turbo tech is the same and that a single won't spool/a stall won't be happy.
Tuning knowledge his advanced no doubt and the ability for these 4 bangers to run obscene amounts of boost is part of it too and of course the fuel systems can handle far more power. All true but the Turbo technology itself has come leaps and bounds in efficiency. Small Turbo's are making a LOT of power these days and they dont take much to spool up at all.
Turbo lag is kind of an old wives tale these days..... and im not referring to a manual im referring to an Auto. I would never run a stick with a Turbo.
Garretts new 35mm Turbo is making what the 42mm was making last year. Same size wheel, same size inducer same everything just makes boat loads more power cause the wheel design is more efficient. That a a LOT of improved Tech.
Agree to disagree. I haven't seen a big improvement over the years. Still rockin my old cast tech 76 that puts out tad more than the "new" tech so far. Also $2500+ cheaper. Only improvement would be an extra 200 rpm spool maybe.. Key would be proper sizing for application.
Extra $3,000+ for upgrade for maybe 100-125hp don't sit well with me. Plus then changing components to match.
I street drive more than I track, if I could do it over, correct sized twins would be the way to go for the street.
Fair enough..... shit when I have my Turbo Hayabusa it had a GT40 on it. Made 430 whp on 93 pump w/liquid IC. Put a GTX40r on it and it made 50 less hp at the same boost level smh. If I turned it up it would have made 650+ hp on C16. It was climbing rapidly at 550 hp but lost signal to dyno. I ended up just leaving it at 550.
Bottom line is it just wasn't happy at lower boost. I spent so much money adapting that Turbo to fit u wouldn't believe! All to LOSE hp so yea proper sizing is critical I agree.
But that 82mm is pretty small actually and the exhaust wheel is really small so I dont see any issue with him spooling that Turbo up with the right converter.
Twins are smaller but use half the exhaust pulse to spin the turbine. Intertia is a factor on the larger wheel singles but the impact would be significantly less than using an outdated cast wheel compared to the new tech billets.
If you attempt to justify that your old cast 76 isn't that much worse than a brand new 76 (which I've seen new 76's make 1300rwhp compared to the 800-900 your old cast unit would hit) then I don't know how you can argue that the 500rpm difference of a single setup is worth discussing at all.