Posting this as I wished this information was available when I did this install. Here is how I installed dual Zeitronix Zt-2 widebands. A post for a 3.5 Bar boost sensor I am integrating with this setup is forthcoming.
Not a difficult install, just takes patience. Here is a parts list:
-Two, Zeitronix Zt-2 widebands
-Two, O2 sensor bungs
-Anti-seize paste for installing O2 sensors.
-Electrical connectors (I went with crimp style weatherproof connectors that I shrunk with a heat gun)
-Sharp knife
-An add-a-circuit
-Wire crimpers/cutters
-Heat gun
-Adhesive for sealing the cuts you make in the grommets to feed wideband cables
-USB to serial cable adapter (driver for whatever adapter you use)
-Zeitronix software
1.) Widebands
2.) Remove liners in fender wells, cut grommets and feed wideband harnesses through. Dangling is the wideband and its harness, which were fed through an opening in the fender and dropped down to the exhaust between the body and motor. First, passenger side then drivers side.
3.) I installed the wideband controllers on the passenger side so, I fed the harness for the drivers side sensor under the dash over to the passenger side.
4.) Both harnesses for the sensors and both controllers in the passenger footwell
5.) Power: Since Ford appreciates you so much as a customer, they made the empty, number 5 fuse location located in the passenger side kick panel a 12V, ignition on source for power. Fortunately, Zeitronix builds 4 amp resettable fuses into their controllers so I ran both systems both off one circuit with a 10 amp fuse (I was only able to find a 7.5 amp or a 10 amp fuse.) I used 18 gauge wire to get power to the controllers and also to get them connected to a ground.
6.) Reference included instructions for wiring. In my case, I wired the boost sensor to the driver's side wideband controller and then the output from the passenger side controller to the input on the drivers side controller. This allowed me to hook my laptop up to just one wideband controller and read both AFRs and the boost sensor I installed. Once wired up, plug the respective AFR harnesses & signal connectors into the respective AFR controllers.
7.) The hard part. Bungs. There are four O2 sensors from the factory. Two downstream in the cats and two upstream in front of the cats. Some remove the downstream ones, put their wideband O2 sensors there and turn the downstream O2s off in the cars ECU. I elected to have bungs installed in front of the cats just for the wideband O2s.
The driver's side upstream O2 sensor is in the exhaust manifold. This is great as you have plenty of room to install the wideband O2 and a bung. On the passenger side, the factory upstream O2 is in the exhaust in front of the cat right before the manifold. This, combined with the starter being on the passenger side makes things very tight.
To install the drivers side wideband you probably want to drop the X pipe and cats (what I did) to drill a hole and weld a bung in. This isn't hard.
Someone may have been smarter than I and done this differently but here is my experience: To get a wideband on the passenger side, the exhaust shop I went to cut the X pipe off behind the cats, dropped the cats out of the car, installed the wideband in front of the upstream O2, bolted the cats onto the exhaust manifold and welded the X pipe back on. They did this because clearance is tight and you have to shift the entire X pipe and cats about two inches back to get them off the exhaust hangers. The added wideband would crash into the body of the car had we not cut the x pipe off and simply tried to reinstall the X pipe and cats as one piece. Here is the driver and passenger sides. On the passenger side, the wideband O2 is in front (not directly in front) of the factory upstream O2.
All of this headache could have been easily avoided if you are comfortable mounting your widebands on the bottom side of the exhaust pipe (6 o'clock for example); however, it is my understanding that doing this allows condensation to sit on the sensors leading to premature failure. The way I did the install allowed me to set the widebands how they should be, which per Zeitronix, is between 10 and 2 o'clock.
8.) Driver for serial connector to USB downloaded and installed, Zeitronix software installed, and wideband controllers powered up.
9.) Confirmed everything is working correctly, pulled slack out of wideband harnesses in the engine bay so that they aren't resting/going to get caught on anything, sealed up the grommets, reinstalled fender liners, cleaned up passenger side kick panel and permanently mounted the controllers on the inside of the firewall in the passenger footwell.
Done. Feel free to ask questions. Hope someone finds this helpful.
Not a difficult install, just takes patience. Here is a parts list:
-Two, Zeitronix Zt-2 widebands
-Two, O2 sensor bungs
-Anti-seize paste for installing O2 sensors.
-Electrical connectors (I went with crimp style weatherproof connectors that I shrunk with a heat gun)
-Sharp knife
-An add-a-circuit
-Wire crimpers/cutters
-Heat gun
-Adhesive for sealing the cuts you make in the grommets to feed wideband cables
-USB to serial cable adapter (driver for whatever adapter you use)
-Zeitronix software
1.) Widebands
2.) Remove liners in fender wells, cut grommets and feed wideband harnesses through. Dangling is the wideband and its harness, which were fed through an opening in the fender and dropped down to the exhaust between the body and motor. First, passenger side then drivers side.
3.) I installed the wideband controllers on the passenger side so, I fed the harness for the drivers side sensor under the dash over to the passenger side.
4.) Both harnesses for the sensors and both controllers in the passenger footwell
5.) Power: Since Ford appreciates you so much as a customer, they made the empty, number 5 fuse location located in the passenger side kick panel a 12V, ignition on source for power. Fortunately, Zeitronix builds 4 amp resettable fuses into their controllers so I ran both systems both off one circuit with a 10 amp fuse (I was only able to find a 7.5 amp or a 10 amp fuse.) I used 18 gauge wire to get power to the controllers and also to get them connected to a ground.
6.) Reference included instructions for wiring. In my case, I wired the boost sensor to the driver's side wideband controller and then the output from the passenger side controller to the input on the drivers side controller. This allowed me to hook my laptop up to just one wideband controller and read both AFRs and the boost sensor I installed. Once wired up, plug the respective AFR harnesses & signal connectors into the respective AFR controllers.
7.) The hard part. Bungs. There are four O2 sensors from the factory. Two downstream in the cats and two upstream in front of the cats. Some remove the downstream ones, put their wideband O2 sensors there and turn the downstream O2s off in the cars ECU. I elected to have bungs installed in front of the cats just for the wideband O2s.
The driver's side upstream O2 sensor is in the exhaust manifold. This is great as you have plenty of room to install the wideband O2 and a bung. On the passenger side, the factory upstream O2 is in the exhaust in front of the cat right before the manifold. This, combined with the starter being on the passenger side makes things very tight.
To install the drivers side wideband you probably want to drop the X pipe and cats (what I did) to drill a hole and weld a bung in. This isn't hard.
Someone may have been smarter than I and done this differently but here is my experience: To get a wideband on the passenger side, the exhaust shop I went to cut the X pipe off behind the cats, dropped the cats out of the car, installed the wideband in front of the upstream O2, bolted the cats onto the exhaust manifold and welded the X pipe back on. They did this because clearance is tight and you have to shift the entire X pipe and cats about two inches back to get them off the exhaust hangers. The added wideband would crash into the body of the car had we not cut the x pipe off and simply tried to reinstall the X pipe and cats as one piece. Here is the driver and passenger sides. On the passenger side, the wideband O2 is in front (not directly in front) of the factory upstream O2.
All of this headache could have been easily avoided if you are comfortable mounting your widebands on the bottom side of the exhaust pipe (6 o'clock for example); however, it is my understanding that doing this allows condensation to sit on the sensors leading to premature failure. The way I did the install allowed me to set the widebands how they should be, which per Zeitronix, is between 10 and 2 o'clock.
8.) Driver for serial connector to USB downloaded and installed, Zeitronix software installed, and wideband controllers powered up.
9.) Confirmed everything is working correctly, pulled slack out of wideband harnesses in the engine bay so that they aren't resting/going to get caught on anything, sealed up the grommets, reinstalled fender liners, cleaned up passenger side kick panel and permanently mounted the controllers on the inside of the firewall in the passenger footwell.
Done. Feel free to ask questions. Hope someone finds this helpful.
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