Search results

Does the tick speed up when you rev the motor? Can always take the belt off the blower to see if it goes away and eliminate that possibility.

Thank you everyone for all the suggestions. I at least have a lost of things to try and hopefully get this issue under control. That problem gone and this is by far the best car I ever owned. I'll start with the MGW and Amsoil then see how it goes from there.

I appreciate the advice. I will probably go ahead and start with the shifter and see how it goes from there. If your Blowfish bracket ends up for sale I would definitely be interested in that. I am still on the stock trans fluid so changing that out will be something else I could look into...

The trans should still be good. The car has under 5k miles on it at this point and I have only tried the 1-2 shift at high RPM a handful of times. Everytime it has been an issue though. Extremely frustrating and the only thing I hate about these cars. If I can get that fixed, it would be...

Thanks for the info. So it sounds like you ran the car with the stock shifter and blowfish bracket for awhile? How did that work out?

It looks like you had to modify the Blowfish bracket to get it to work with the MGW? Which part do you think was more helpful in solving the issue, the bracket or the shifter? I wonder if the bracket and stock shifter would also solve the issue without having to modify the parts.

Really starting to drive me nuts! High RPM 1-2 shift is always a pain. Will a Blowfish bracket and a MGW take care of it? What has been figured out over the years?

I just got Toyo R888R's on the rear of my 13 GT500 with the stock Goodyears up front. I love the Toyo's! It hooks very well in 2nd gear, decent in 1st gear once they get a little heat in them. There is a small amount of road noise on the highway but nothing unbearable. Couldn't be happier...

Agreed. If he is shooting for that much power, it will be much cheaper to upgrade the parts now rather than after the motor blows. I am following none the less. It will be interesting how it all plays out!

Thanks for the info. It definitely is frustrating. My knock did improve after tightening the air box but still isn't perfect. It seems a lot of people have these troubles with these cars looking at past posts. Every post I go to most of the people never resolved it. I wonder if more people...

No, not yet. Lund would have to write a new tune for that unless I took everything off and went back to stock.

Well, I went through and added some padding to tighten down the intake. It is very firm now and barely wiggles at all. Unfortunately I am still seeing random +2.5-4.5 KR. Usually starting right around 5000rpm. This is driving me nuts. There is absolutely nothing that I can find that would...

I went over the entire engine, zip tied away anything that I thought may be contacting the motor. Nothing seemed to help until I shoved that rag in there. I'm going to try and secure it better with the rubber grommets from the bottom of the factory box and some vacuum line around the hole in...

100% factory exhaust. Exhaust has never been off the car. E85 is around but not available enough to be a viable option to me. Most stations are 20+ miles away. I will be running 93 and Boostane daily. 8oz of Boostane Professional and 93 should bring it up to 99ish.

NGK BR7EF gapped at .28

Thanks. I'm not sure if they can see individual cylinder knock or not. I sent them the updated logs this evening. I personally was just looking at the global knock in SCT Livelink.

It has since had a fresh tank of 93oct with a 32oz can of VP Octanium blended in as requested by the tuner. They feel it is not the fuel quality at this point and is most likely false knock.

I am currently working with Lund Racing on an email tune and have been having issues with +5-6 KR at 4800rpm and then slowly tapering down to +4 at 6800rpm. The car is on 93oct with a full can of VP Octanium in the tank which should bring it up to around 99-100oct. I verified that there is...

I just went down this road myself on my stock 2013 GT500. I wanted to open it up on the stock blower and also be able to hear that blower scream! Stock it was just too quiet and I could only hear it in the upper rpms. I ended up going with the JLT 123mm intake, VMP 67mm throttle body, BPS...

The car will be in the upper 600whp range. I am partial to the NT05R's but I have never ran the 555R's. I think the 555R's would be a better fit for the rim but I don't want to give up a lot of traction if the NT05R's work well. Have you run the NT05R's on the stock rims?

Which drag radial do you prefer on the stock 20" rims? I have used NT05R's in the past on other cars and loved their performance but am unsure about them on a 9.5" rim. Is the 555R a better choice for these cars? I ran through a ton of old threads and found the opinions were back and forth...

Thanks! I am definitely getting a set of drag radials but am undecided on which ones. I have always used Nitto NT05Rs in the past and they worked very well. Unfortunately it looks like they only come in 315/35 for the 20s. I have read others run these on the stock rims and they work well...

Thanks for all the great info! Sounds like the more aggressive throttle bodies are getting better over time. I will probably end up switching to one at some point down the line. Probably when I decide to upgrade the blower. It will be a few years before that happens. I mainly just wanted to...

Thanks guy's. Blake from Lethal helped me out through PM and gave me a great deal. Ended up going the VMP 67mm, JLT intake and catch can, BPS ported plenum, 2.4 pulley with Metco idler, BR7EF plugs, nGuage with Lund tune. It will most likely be a few years before I start swapping blowers...

Nice! Sounds like a awesome build.