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The Terminator
Driveline
03 Cobra Spec 2+ vs Spec 3+ clutch
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<blockquote data-quote="SnakeBit" data-source="post: 15592236" data-attributes="member: 2522"><p>Do you have an OEM cable or aftermarket? Some aftermarket cables will do that when hot. Best to use an OEM cable and lubricate it (several videos on YouTube show how to do this). Also, watch how you route the cable to keep it as far away from the exhaust as possible.</p><p></p><p>Extending the pivot ball will move the clutch arm closer to the engine block within the opening. This could limit how much your clutch disengages.</p><p>I have found that when reinstalling the transmission, the clutch arm should be in the middle or a bit farther back in the opening when the TOB is resting against the pressure plate. If it is too far back and hits the back edge of the opening, the clutch may not engage completely.</p><p></p><p>In my last job, we were making file folders on large presses. Bearing usually fail with time. The more they rotate, the closer they get to failure. The TOB was designed to rotate with the pedal out because that was the only way they could make the adjustment with the OEM quadrant (without going to hydraulics). But spinning the TOB all of the time WILL shorten it's life. Ideally, the TOB should last as long as the clutch does, but in my experience, it does not in the OEM setup.</p><p></p><p>In addition, the Retainer tube the TOB slides on is a POS in the OEM version. In my case, the tube broke well before either the clutch or the TOB failed. I replaced it with a stainless version from Lethal. Also used high temp lube on the tube to make it easier for the TOB to slide back and forth. Mine is now adjusted with a small gap (using the LDC Freeplay mod) between the TOB and Pressure Plate at rest. So far, my clutch (Spec 3+) TOB (FRPP HD TOB) and Retainer tube have lasted much longer than the OEM versions did.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="SnakeBit, post: 15592236, member: 2522"] Do you have an OEM cable or aftermarket? Some aftermarket cables will do that when hot. Best to use an OEM cable and lubricate it (several videos on YouTube show how to do this). Also, watch how you route the cable to keep it as far away from the exhaust as possible. Extending the pivot ball will move the clutch arm closer to the engine block within the opening. This could limit how much your clutch disengages. I have found that when reinstalling the transmission, the clutch arm should be in the middle or a bit farther back in the opening when the TOB is resting against the pressure plate. If it is too far back and hits the back edge of the opening, the clutch may not engage completely. In my last job, we were making file folders on large presses. Bearing usually fail with time. The more they rotate, the closer they get to failure. The TOB was designed to rotate with the pedal out because that was the only way they could make the adjustment with the OEM quadrant (without going to hydraulics). But spinning the TOB all of the time WILL shorten it's life. Ideally, the TOB should last as long as the clutch does, but in my experience, it does not in the OEM setup. In addition, the Retainer tube the TOB slides on is a POS in the OEM version. In my case, the tube broke well before either the clutch or the TOB failed. I replaced it with a stainless version from Lethal. Also used high temp lube on the tube to make it easier for the TOB to slide back and forth. Mine is now adjusted with a small gap (using the LDC Freeplay mod) between the TOB and Pressure Plate at rest. So far, my clutch (Spec 3+) TOB (FRPP HD TOB) and Retainer tube have lasted much longer than the OEM versions did. [/QUOTE]
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03 Cobra Spec 2+ vs Spec 3+ clutch
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