SORRY, THIS IS NO LONGER FOR SALE. I GET TO KEEP IT!
'03 Cobra... where to start?! Basically a clean, almost-every-typical-bolt-on Redfire coupe with 19,700 miles! Bought used in January of '04 bone-stock with 2500 miles on it from a local Ford dealership. Young man bought it right after his divorce in the fall of '03 and only made one payment on it before he realized he was in over his head money-wise. This story was verified shortly thereafter as I ran into a friend of his who recognized the car.
I have since added the following: Chrome Bullitt wheels, 17x9 and 17x10.5s with stock Goodyear F1s in front and Nitto 315 drag radials rear. Lowered 1.5 inches all around (stock springs and shocks). I get compliments ALL the time about it's stance with the height and tire/wheel combo... even by Ford haters! Steigemeier Stage 4 ported blower with ported throttle body and welded/ported plenum which are all painted dark gray. 2.8 SFPH non-slip upper with a 2# Metco lower pulley and Gates belt which yields about 15.5 psi boost. Full set of four Metco idler "hard anodized" pulleys (3-92 mm pulleys and 1-100 mm snub idler). Been running this blower/pulley combo for about 3500 miles (was 2.8 upper only since about 5500 miles). Ram Powergrip HD clutch kit and 986 mile transmission with a 26 spline input shaft installed at 18,485 miles (stock trans was okay, just always shifted hard and I was able to make a killer package deal locally!). Stock flywheel was Blanchard ground and 480 break-in miles allowed on new clutch. Trans filled with synthetic Synchromesh fluid. UPR Triple Pickup clutch quadrant and firewall adjuster. MGW shifter with modified blue handle. LDC cooling mod installed at same time as trans. Dynotune dry nitrous kit complete with bottle warmer, purge (purges behind snakes mouth in grille), and cup holder mounted switch controller from Steeda. Kit is hidden from view underhood as all solenoids are mounted in passenger fender and the nozzle is mounted under the rubber elbow directly in front of the throttle body. Approximately 30 pounds of nitrous total (3 full bottles) ran through this car. Predator programmer with tunes by RWTD for blower only, 50, 75 and 100 shot (runs a little rich for safety). NGK BR7EF spark plugs with .031" gap. 55# injectors w/ adapter harnesses. Kenne Bell "Boost-A-Pump" with upgraded pump wiring. JLT "High Boost" cold air inlet system (12" filter in fender). MAFXtender. MAC off-road Pro-Chamber H-pipe with Magnaflow cat-back (I get a LOT of compliments on the sound!). Billetflow red rear diff brace with a new stock differential cover (stocker had developed a hairline crack) and synthetic fluid at about 16,000 miles. Unique self-designed/installed dual heat exchanger system which consists of a second stock heat exchanger plumbed in series and installed in front of the radiator with a hidden 1.5 quart extra reservoir. Energy Suspension polyurethane motor mounts installed at 19,000 miles. PCV oil seperator installed out of sight. Glove box mounted Dynotune WideBand Commander air/fuel ratio monitoring system, MSD digital window switch, and VDO boost gauge. Hilton Boost Overlay on stock gauge. Custom "Holy Crap" stock shift knob. Rear "COBRA" bumper inlay has been outlined with a thin black pinstripe for a subtle and unique look.
Never been on slicks (only Nitto DRs) and has about 25 1/4 mile passes on it with a best 60' of 1.89 (easy launches). I have never powershifted. I am middle aged and in all honesty drive it very conservatively around town. Not to say I don't occasionally oblige somebody who wants to give me a little run, but that is a VERY rare occurrence. Car has never been on ANY high speed sustained runs.
With the stock blower and 2.8" upper the car ran a best of [email protected]. With the Stage 4 blower and upper/lower pulley combo and .048 jet (conservative 100 shot), it has gone a best of [email protected] w/ a 1.92 60'. I am not convinced that the nitrous is working 100% as it should: car went 101.7 mph in the 1/8th on that pass which seems like it should result in a higher 1/4 mph. Also, the car feels stronger in short "street bursts" than it does for the full 1/4 mile. Am planning to send the solenoids in for rebuilding this winter and have never used the datalog function of the WBC to see what is going on during a pass (gauge reads about 11.0 a/f), so there is much more potential. The MSD window switch is currently disconnected as I was trying to rule it out as a cause. It really feels no stronger on the 75 or 100 jets than it did on the 50 and doesn't use as much nitrous during full passes as it seemingly should, making me think maybe the solenoids aren't fully functional.
I will include almost all the stock components that were removed during modification. I say almost, because the stock chrome wheels are in use on my daughter's '94 GT. They might possibly be purchased at extra cost, but will not be included in the car's sale price. Another option is to possibly replace the Bullitts with them and renegotiate the price slightly (should note they are in great condition and run 275/40 and 285/40 Kumhos in excellent shape). I also have a brand new stock chin spoiler that I will include as the original on the car is pretty scuffed up due to the angle of my driveway and the lowering of the car.
Never in an accident, all original paint. Never had the "vibe," "pull," or "squeak." Never been to a dealership or shop for work other than alignment or tire install.
Now for the "bad" stuff, which I disclose to be as honest about the car as possible (I have sold two performance cars via the Internet and had happy buyers both times): I believe this car has the "dreaded" tick! It had a slight noise when I bought it and I thought it to be a small exhaust leak. It has never gotten any louder and has not affected performance or reliability. It has been highly documented that there are many who believe that the "tick" HAS no effect on reliability or power output! The lowering was done and didn't get realigned for several months, so the inside of the front tires are worn. The pulley/belt combo I chose has been known to result in slight belt squeal when cold, and it does on this car. Goes away after just a couple minutes and hurts nothing. After the BAP install for which I ran the wiring through the same existing hole as the ABS wires, the ABS started acting "funny" which may mean I somehow harmed the wire. I simply disconnected the plugs under the rear seats, which disabled the ABS and traction control. Other than the ABS light on the dash being on all the time, I haven't missed either feature! While having the rear tires mounted for the first time, one of the techs put an inch long scratch on one wheel on the dish part. Also, the chrome on the rear wheels appears a little thin. They still look great overall. My daughter got in the car a couple of times after "fixing" her makeup. Little did we know that the makeup on her fingers then left permanent prints on the car's interior! They are barely noticeable and nobody else has ever even commented on them, but *I* know they are there (Grrrr!)! The body has no dings or scratches, but does have a few Cobra-typical tiny rock chips on the hood and behind the front and rear tires. These are truly barely noticeable. The front driver's seat has some wear marks on the side from apparently resting against the door panel (minor and only visible with door open). The car once slid halfway off a floor jack with it resting on a jacking pad on the passenger side rear which luckily only resulted in a bent up jacking pad. Has few scuffs on the IRS subframe, mufflers, etc. from "higher than normal" pavement encounters.
I honestly 100% LOVE this car, but with cut-backs at work I am not making as much as I used to and have a hard time justifying the payments. Yes, I do have a loan so they have the title, but that can be worked out... happens all the time. I am not in a "must sell" or even "really want to sell" situation, so no low-ballers or tire-kickers, please and I reserve the right to change my mind at any time! I may help with delivery depending on distance. Can take and send more pictures to someone seriously interested.
Forgot this little story: Hanging out with several of my buddies who own Mustangs/Cobras one night and the "tick" subject came up. When I told them mine had it they thought I was crazy because they couldn't hear what I was describing from ANY angle! Also, it can come and go with oil changes and/or temperature variations? More I read up about "the tick" lately, I wonder if it really is a loose cam support?
[email protected] or 563-370-3469
And for more info: http://hometown.aol.com/ygettv8/page1.html (Please note that most of the pics on my website are before it was lowered)
'03 Cobra... where to start?! Basically a clean, almost-every-typical-bolt-on Redfire coupe with 19,700 miles! Bought used in January of '04 bone-stock with 2500 miles on it from a local Ford dealership. Young man bought it right after his divorce in the fall of '03 and only made one payment on it before he realized he was in over his head money-wise. This story was verified shortly thereafter as I ran into a friend of his who recognized the car.
I have since added the following: Chrome Bullitt wheels, 17x9 and 17x10.5s with stock Goodyear F1s in front and Nitto 315 drag radials rear. Lowered 1.5 inches all around (stock springs and shocks). I get compliments ALL the time about it's stance with the height and tire/wheel combo... even by Ford haters! Steigemeier Stage 4 ported blower with ported throttle body and welded/ported plenum which are all painted dark gray. 2.8 SFPH non-slip upper with a 2# Metco lower pulley and Gates belt which yields about 15.5 psi boost. Full set of four Metco idler "hard anodized" pulleys (3-92 mm pulleys and 1-100 mm snub idler). Been running this blower/pulley combo for about 3500 miles (was 2.8 upper only since about 5500 miles). Ram Powergrip HD clutch kit and 986 mile transmission with a 26 spline input shaft installed at 18,485 miles (stock trans was okay, just always shifted hard and I was able to make a killer package deal locally!). Stock flywheel was Blanchard ground and 480 break-in miles allowed on new clutch. Trans filled with synthetic Synchromesh fluid. UPR Triple Pickup clutch quadrant and firewall adjuster. MGW shifter with modified blue handle. LDC cooling mod installed at same time as trans. Dynotune dry nitrous kit complete with bottle warmer, purge (purges behind snakes mouth in grille), and cup holder mounted switch controller from Steeda. Kit is hidden from view underhood as all solenoids are mounted in passenger fender and the nozzle is mounted under the rubber elbow directly in front of the throttle body. Approximately 30 pounds of nitrous total (3 full bottles) ran through this car. Predator programmer with tunes by RWTD for blower only, 50, 75 and 100 shot (runs a little rich for safety). NGK BR7EF spark plugs with .031" gap. 55# injectors w/ adapter harnesses. Kenne Bell "Boost-A-Pump" with upgraded pump wiring. JLT "High Boost" cold air inlet system (12" filter in fender). MAFXtender. MAC off-road Pro-Chamber H-pipe with Magnaflow cat-back (I get a LOT of compliments on the sound!). Billetflow red rear diff brace with a new stock differential cover (stocker had developed a hairline crack) and synthetic fluid at about 16,000 miles. Unique self-designed/installed dual heat exchanger system which consists of a second stock heat exchanger plumbed in series and installed in front of the radiator with a hidden 1.5 quart extra reservoir. Energy Suspension polyurethane motor mounts installed at 19,000 miles. PCV oil seperator installed out of sight. Glove box mounted Dynotune WideBand Commander air/fuel ratio monitoring system, MSD digital window switch, and VDO boost gauge. Hilton Boost Overlay on stock gauge. Custom "Holy Crap" stock shift knob. Rear "COBRA" bumper inlay has been outlined with a thin black pinstripe for a subtle and unique look.
Never been on slicks (only Nitto DRs) and has about 25 1/4 mile passes on it with a best 60' of 1.89 (easy launches). I have never powershifted. I am middle aged and in all honesty drive it very conservatively around town. Not to say I don't occasionally oblige somebody who wants to give me a little run, but that is a VERY rare occurrence. Car has never been on ANY high speed sustained runs.
With the stock blower and 2.8" upper the car ran a best of [email protected]. With the Stage 4 blower and upper/lower pulley combo and .048 jet (conservative 100 shot), it has gone a best of [email protected] w/ a 1.92 60'. I am not convinced that the nitrous is working 100% as it should: car went 101.7 mph in the 1/8th on that pass which seems like it should result in a higher 1/4 mph. Also, the car feels stronger in short "street bursts" than it does for the full 1/4 mile. Am planning to send the solenoids in for rebuilding this winter and have never used the datalog function of the WBC to see what is going on during a pass (gauge reads about 11.0 a/f), so there is much more potential. The MSD window switch is currently disconnected as I was trying to rule it out as a cause. It really feels no stronger on the 75 or 100 jets than it did on the 50 and doesn't use as much nitrous during full passes as it seemingly should, making me think maybe the solenoids aren't fully functional.
I will include almost all the stock components that were removed during modification. I say almost, because the stock chrome wheels are in use on my daughter's '94 GT. They might possibly be purchased at extra cost, but will not be included in the car's sale price. Another option is to possibly replace the Bullitts with them and renegotiate the price slightly (should note they are in great condition and run 275/40 and 285/40 Kumhos in excellent shape). I also have a brand new stock chin spoiler that I will include as the original on the car is pretty scuffed up due to the angle of my driveway and the lowering of the car.
Never in an accident, all original paint. Never had the "vibe," "pull," or "squeak." Never been to a dealership or shop for work other than alignment or tire install.
Now for the "bad" stuff, which I disclose to be as honest about the car as possible (I have sold two performance cars via the Internet and had happy buyers both times): I believe this car has the "dreaded" tick! It had a slight noise when I bought it and I thought it to be a small exhaust leak. It has never gotten any louder and has not affected performance or reliability. It has been highly documented that there are many who believe that the "tick" HAS no effect on reliability or power output! The lowering was done and didn't get realigned for several months, so the inside of the front tires are worn. The pulley/belt combo I chose has been known to result in slight belt squeal when cold, and it does on this car. Goes away after just a couple minutes and hurts nothing. After the BAP install for which I ran the wiring through the same existing hole as the ABS wires, the ABS started acting "funny" which may mean I somehow harmed the wire. I simply disconnected the plugs under the rear seats, which disabled the ABS and traction control. Other than the ABS light on the dash being on all the time, I haven't missed either feature! While having the rear tires mounted for the first time, one of the techs put an inch long scratch on one wheel on the dish part. Also, the chrome on the rear wheels appears a little thin. They still look great overall. My daughter got in the car a couple of times after "fixing" her makeup. Little did we know that the makeup on her fingers then left permanent prints on the car's interior! They are barely noticeable and nobody else has ever even commented on them, but *I* know they are there (Grrrr!)! The body has no dings or scratches, but does have a few Cobra-typical tiny rock chips on the hood and behind the front and rear tires. These are truly barely noticeable. The front driver's seat has some wear marks on the side from apparently resting against the door panel (minor and only visible with door open). The car once slid halfway off a floor jack with it resting on a jacking pad on the passenger side rear which luckily only resulted in a bent up jacking pad. Has few scuffs on the IRS subframe, mufflers, etc. from "higher than normal" pavement encounters.
I honestly 100% LOVE this car, but with cut-backs at work I am not making as much as I used to and have a hard time justifying the payments. Yes, I do have a loan so they have the title, but that can be worked out... happens all the time. I am not in a "must sell" or even "really want to sell" situation, so no low-ballers or tire-kickers, please and I reserve the right to change my mind at any time! I may help with delivery depending on distance. Can take and send more pictures to someone seriously interested.
Forgot this little story: Hanging out with several of my buddies who own Mustangs/Cobras one night and the "tick" subject came up. When I told them mine had it they thought I was crazy because they couldn't hear what I was describing from ANY angle! Also, it can come and go with oil changes and/or temperature variations? More I read up about "the tick" lately, I wonder if it really is a loose cam support?
[email protected] or 563-370-3469
And for more info: http://hometown.aol.com/ygettv8/page1.html (Please note that most of the pics on my website are before it was lowered)
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