17's or 18's

[lodhammerdin]

Love my 18's FR500 18x9 18x10

get some interior shots up somewhere dude, car looks sweet as hell!!! o, btw, I say 18x9 front, 18x 10 or even 18x11.5 like i run so that i hook, lol. btw, I have an 03 cobra, but I put my rims on on a buddys car (18x9 front with 275/35 and 18x11.5 with 335/30 rears 03 replicas) they looked smokin, but the rears did stick out a little bit, maybe a half inch or so, but still looked mean. car was lowered with steedas springs and rubbing was not an issue. hope this helps.

 

[carrew]

People assume mine are 17's too, I think its the design of the wheel. It has that part that comes up where spokes touch the outer rim. With the cobra brakes it creates a optical illusion. Since most 18's make the brakes look small.

I have a set of 10ths that are Ford Racing silver ones.

Hooking up is not tire diameter issue, its a tire issue. I tell you the BFG KDW or KDWS spin no matter what you have. Nitto drags no spin issue even in 18's.

 

[JoeRacer]

In theory a 17" tire will hook up better than an 18" tire given the same outside diameter because the 17" tire has a larger sidewall. The larger sidewall in theory absorbs some of the shock from the launch and will give a better hook.

In my experience running either a 17" or 18" tire with a decent amount of power you will experience a similar lack of traction. I don't notice much of a difference between those two, but I did notice a difference between 16" drag radials and 18" drag radials. The 15" has been the best for traction for me. However the 15" drive like a turd in the turns and I'll have none of that nonsense on the street.

I'll stick to running 18" street radials when I'm cruising the boulevard, and swap to 15's for the track when traction is the most important.

I've ran drag radials and they give better traction than a street radial, but the 18's still don't give me the hook I want for the track. If I'm going to the track I don't want to waste my time spinning tires with worse ET when I could be cutting solid times on a 15" setup. Maybe some day I'll get the gumption to minitub the car and run the M&H drag radials in 325/40-18 or 345/35-18.

 

[SVTwhore]

^^^ Yeah thats what Im looking for is style and good cornering. I have a set of 15 Weld prostars for at the track myself. I just want to still retain some bite on the street without sacraficing corners.

 

[CO9B3RA]

I'd LOVE to put a set of 10th Anni's on my '93 Cobra but I won't sacrifice the
orininality. The next possibility would be is there any way to put the same
rims on an '86 SVO? Which same size of tires, F & R, would do the trick or is
it impossible w/o going to the SN95 front change?

 

[bdenham]

wheel size

So with the rear 18x10 fr5oo replicas, does it pretty much line up flush with the fender or does it stick out at all? You are right, the 18" FR500's look great on fox body mustangs. I am trying to decide wheel/size as well for my fox and the FR's on here look great.

 

[JoeRacer]

It doesn't stick out at all. If anything it has room to be pushed out a little, but I think it is as close to sitting perfectly flush as you'll get without having custom made wheels. Here are a couple more pics from when I was doing the swap on my LX, sorry I don't have more pics of the Cobra. I've had it in storage while I've been transitioning from the Army back to college. These still help show you where the wheels sit on a fox chassis with fox width axles:

 

[bdenham]

'

Thats amazing. I was running a 305/35/18 on a 10.5 wide wheel on my 04 cobra and it still wasn't flush with the fender.

 

[SVTwhore]

I'd LOVE to put a set of 10th Anni's on my '93 Cobra but I won't sacrifice the
orininality. The next possibility would be is there any way to put the same
rims on an '86 SVO? Which same size of tires, F & R, would do the trick or is
it impossible w/o going to the SN95 front change?

I did some research on this and it seems that the only issue is that you need a different offset in order to run center caps. The dust cap on the rotor sticks out just a touch too far for it to sit in place.

 

[CO9B3RA]

Is the dust cap so specific that another not as tall but of the same dia. to
fit over the outer rotor bearing not unavailable? :??:

 

[SVTwhore]

Is the dust cap so specific that another not as tall but of the same dia. to
fit over the outer rotor bearing not unavailable? :??:

Thats a good question, I never really looked into it too far. I know that american muscle sells a set of the 95 Cobra R reps that have the proper backspacing to clear the dust cap. I was considering going that route for awhile. I found them while searching for a 5 lug swap; it was a package deal with wheels, tires, axle's, rotors, and the drums. If memory serves me right the whole shot went for somewhere around $1500-$1600. I just remember being blown away with how good a deal it was.

 

[CO9B3RA]

For $1600 that was a GOOD bargain if a person had the money. In my case
the money is the problem: I'm trying to get it done the CHEAPEST way and get it done without changing too much. :shrug: And those 10th Anni wheels aren't
cheap!

 

[racerbox77]

For $1600 that was a GOOD bargain if a person had the money. In my case
the money is the problem: I'm trying to get it done the CHEAPEST way and get it done without changing too much. :shrug: And those 10th Anni wheels aren't
cheap!

EDIT: SOLD

I may have just what you need. These wheels look similar to the FR500's but are more unique.

http://www.svtperformance.com/forum...p-dish-staggered-fit-w-performance-tires.html

 

[CO9B3RA]

I thank you for the offer however, I've already got 2 of the 10th Anni's
and await 4 more. Now all i have to do is figure out the cheapest
way to "massage" the SVO's front suspension to accept the new rims.

Good looking wheels, though!

 

[RARE5.0]

Looking perfect as always!!!

Thanks Man :beer:

 

[JoeRacer]

I think I got all of the parts to do the M2300K for about $1000'ish 2.5 years ago. The only stuff I bought used were the spindles and axles. Everything else I bought new. I bought the FRPP brake upgrade package for the SN95 that includes all of the 13" brake stuff (rotors, calipers, brackets, lines, pads, dust shields ...), and then used the NRC brackets to fit the fox length axles (which I sourced from two aerostar vans for a grand total of $20). The wheels/tires were the most expensive part of it all and they cost about $1200 mounted/balanced/shipped iirc. 2 years ago the M2300K kit was selling for $2500 I believe, and I remember it selling for $1500 at one point about 10 years ago. Whichever way you go is up to you. You can do a 'cheap' 5 lug swap, and the easiest is the ranger drums/5 lug rotors but you will run into the issue of the dustcap not fitting right (there are ways to grind down the wheel/dustcap to fit together though ...). You can probably find the parts to do this swap or $100-150 in most junk yards, I helped a buddy pull the parts and we got them for $40 that day. The SN95 brake swap is a little more, but still cheaper than the Cobra-spec 13" parts. I'd strongly recommend using new brake parts, but if you buy used just be prepared to do an overhaul of any used parts before installing them (well, do what you want ... if it were me I'd rebuild the calipers because it is cheap, easy to do, and will help insure you have calipers that will function correctly).