2001 Dyno Experience: Is a K&N Panel Filter worth it?

BfB

Banned
Joined
Jun 2, 2001
Messages
53
Location
Mobile, AL
2001 Ford F-150 SVT Lightning

No Modifications unless listed
4,500 Miles Approx. on vehicle
Mobil 1 5W-30 Synthetic Oil
First & only oil change at approx. 3000 miles

All runs were made back to back w/ no cooldown between runs.
1st run was brought in off the street w/ no cooldown.


Code:
[b]MAX #'s   HP      TQ
RUN #1:   342.0   412.3 - Stock Filter
    #2:   341.9   410.6 - K&N Panel Filter
    #3:   342.1   409.1 - No Filter[/b]

(MAX #'s may not reflect from charts below because the MAX
 may have been between the 100 RPM increments shown.  MAX TQ
 #'s are slightly low due to the fact that peak tq occurs at
 approx. 3250 and all runs were started at approx. 3500.  I
 assume MAX TQ #'s would have been approx. 5 higher or more.)



RUN #  -  1       2       3
FILTER -  STOCK   K&N     NONE

RPMS      HP

3500   -  [b]272.0[/b]   271.8   271.6
3600   -  279.7   [b]280.1[/b]   280.0
3700   -  [b]290.4[/b]   285.8   287.6
3800   -  [b]296.3[/b]   295.5   294.2
3900   -  301.2   [b]302.0[/b]   300.9
4000   -  [b]309.4[/b]   308.6   307.5
4100   -  [b]314.2[/b]   313.9   313.9
4200   -  [b]320.3[/b]   319.7   317.9
4300   -  322.9   [b]324.0[/b]   323.4
4400   -  325.8   [b]328.7[/b]   328.3
4500   -  331.9   [b]333.2[/b]   330.9
4600   -  335.6   [b]336.0[/b]   333.9
4700   -  336.9   [b]339.8[/b]   336.8
4800   -  339.0   [b]340.5[/b]   339.3
4900   -  [b]341.1[/b]   340.3   338.1
5000   -  340.0   341.1   [b]342.1[/b]
5100   -  [b]341.0[/b]   338.0   335.5
5200   -  [b]339.8[/b]   337.7   338.1
5300   -  336.2   [b]338.1[/b]   336.6
5400   -  331.2   [b]335.3[/b]   332.8
5500   -  326.1   [b]329.6[/b]   326.3

AVG:   -  320.5   [b]320.9[/b]   319.8

MAX:   -  341.1   341.1   [b]342.1[/b]



RUN #  -  1       2
FILTER -  STOCK   K&N

RPMS      HP              GAIN/
                          LOSS

3500   -  272.0   271.8   -  .2
3600   -  279.7   280.1   +  .4
3700   -  290.4   285.8   - 4.6
3800   -  296.3   295.5   -  .8
3900   -  301.2   302.0   +  .8
4000   -  309.4   308.6   -  .8
4100   -  314.2   313.9   -  .3
4200   -  320.3   319.7   -  .6
4300   -  322.9   324.0   + 1.1
4400   -  325.8   328.7   + 2.9
4500   -  331.9   333.2   + 1.3
4600   -  335.6   336.0   +  .4
4700   -  336.9   339.8   + 2.9
4800   -  339.0   340.5   +  .5
4900   -  341.1   340.3   -  .8
5000   -  340.0   341.1   + 1.1
5100   -  341.0   338.0   - 3.0
5200   -  339.8   337.7   - 2.1
5300   -  336.2   338.1   + 1.9
5400   -  331.2   335.3   + 4.1
5500   -  326.1   329.6   + 3.5

AVG:   -  320.5   320.9   +  .4
(12 gains, 9 losses = 43% chance of loss)

MAX:   -  341.1   341.1



RUN #  -  2       3
FILTER -  K&N    NONE

RPMS      HP              GAIN/
                          LOSS

3500   -  271.8   271.6   -  .2
3600   -  280.1   280.0   -  .1
3700   -  285.8   287.6   + 1.8
3800   -  295.5   294.2   - 1.3
3900   -  302.0   300.9   - 1.1
4000   -  308.6   307.5   - 1.1
4100   -  313.9   313.9
4200   -  319.7   317.9   - 1.8
4300   -  324.0   323.4   -  .6
4400   -  328.7   328.3   -  .4
4500   -  333.2   330.9   - 2.3
4600   -  336.0   333.9   - 2.1
4700   -  339.8   336.8   - 3.0
4800   -  340.5   339.3   - 1.2
4900   -  340.3   338.1   - 2.2
5000   -  341.1   342.1   + 1.0
5100   -  338.0   335.5   - 2.5
5200   -  337.7   338.1   +  .4
5300   -  338.1   336.6   - 1.5
5400   -  335.3   332.8   - 2.5
5500   -  329.6   326.3   - 3.3

AVG:   -  320.9   319.8   - 1.1
(3 gains, 1 even, 17 losses = 81% chance of loss)

MAX:   -  341.1   342.1



RUN #  -  1       3
FILTER -  STOCK   NONE

RPMS      HP              GAIN/
                          LOSS

3500   -  272.0   271.6   -  .4
3600   -  279.7   280.0   +  .3
3700   -  290.4   287.6   - 2.8
3800   -  296.3   294.2   - 2.1
3900   -  301.2   300.9   -  .3
4000   -  309.4   307.5   - 1.9
4100   -  314.2   313.9   -  .3
4200   -  320.3   317.9   - 2.4
4300   -  322.9   323.4   +  .5
4400   -  325.8   328.3   + 2.5
4500   -  331.9   330.9   - 1.0
4600   -  335.6   333.9   - 1.7
4700   -  336.9   336.8   -  .1
4800   -  339.0   339.3   +  .3
4900   -  341.1   338.1   - 3.0
5000   -  340.0   342.1   + 2.1
5100   -  341.0   335.5   - 4.5
5200   -  339.8   338.1   - 1.7
5300   -  336.2   336.6   +  .4
5400   -  331.2   332.8   + 1.6
5500   -  326.1   326.3   +  .2

AVG:   -  320.5   319.8   -  .7
(8 gains, 13 losses = 62% chance of loss)

MAX:   -  341.1   342.1


After this was all said and done, has this settled the big air filter debate yet? Possibly, possibly not. I believe '99 and '00 Lightnings may respond better than an '01 to K&N panel filters due to the fact that they aren't as efficient via the intake track. Since the '01s have less restriction over the '99 and '00s, then the K&N panel filter upgrade obviously isn't worth much for the '01.

One thing we can gather is that the K&N filter run does work best out of all the 3 runs, although the difference is very small, and for $40 you really can't beat this fact and the fact that this filter will last a lifetime. Another thing to note, though, is that the factory filter will perform better than no filter at all, so don't go to the track and remove it thinking you'll gain performance.

Something else to notice is that the K&N filter run actually puts a hurting on the other 2 runs from 5300 to 5500. This gain is good enough for a performance increase on the track so long as you shift your vehicle at 5500 or higher.

Some of you ask how did you get I get my truck rpms that high w/out a chip? Well, factory fuel shutoff is 5500. Though, I would not recommend shifting your stock programmed Lightning yourself, but allow the computer to automatically do it at the 5250 mark (basically put it in D and leave it there).

When you become chipped you will DEFINITELY gain performance by having your tuner program your truck to shift at 5600. Up to 6000 would most likely give you even more gains, but then we're risking possibly too high of rpms for shifting on the stock internals. The theory behind shifting higher on our Lightnings (or any other vehicle) is simple:

You always want to be in the gear with the highest horsepower, as at any given speed that will provide the most rear wheel torque. Or explained easier, the trick is to minimize the change in momentum, so you pick the rpm that changes the least in hp when you shift.

I hope this helps everyone! I'm going to continue doing this as I add on additional parts. At $75 bucks a pop (dyno time) it's going to be expensive, but this is something I love and and want to do. It will also help all of you out in the future by giving you ideas to help in your decision making.

I will get some .gif image files up of all the graphs sometime tomorrow, and a comparison of my '01 to my friend's '99. My floppy disk was bad that I took w/ me to the dyno to get my Pep files so I can view and compare them, as well as others, in the Dynojet Run Viewer (which this is FREE, and you can get it here: http://www.dynojet.com/downloads.shtml , so MAKE SURE YOU GET YOUR PEP FILES FROM YOUR DYNO OPERATOR!!!). Doing this will allow me to make .gif image files that are perfect in quality and extremely small in byte size (approx. 10kb each), and keep from having to scan the print-outs in (which usually result in poor quality and huge files).

Take care and God bless!

BfB
 

FlaSVT

Moderator - 2nd Gen Forum
Established Member
Joined
Nov 13, 2000
Messages
683
Location
State of Euphoria
Thanks for the great information.

I've always thought that the K&N was about a wash as far as getting a lot more power. One thing that I've found is my L runs better during the hot summer months when I use the stock air box with a K&N than it does with the 10" filter in an Airaid box.

Like you said, for $40 you get a filter that you can use for a very long time.
 

BfB

Banned
Joined
Jun 2, 2001
Messages
53
Location
Mobile, AL
Pepviewer Instructions!

Hey guys, sorry about the Pepviewer not having directions. It is in DOS so what can you expect from them?

Anyhoo, here's what your directory structure should look like:

attachment.php


Quick Instructions:

Make the following folders and subfolders w/in your "C:\" directory. Only difference is that you'll need to also make yourself a very last directory in whatever 1st directory you place it entitled w/ YOUR name, NOT my nickname of "Bubba", LoL.

THIS PART IS CRUCIAL: Make sure you place your Pepviewer.exe file you downloaded from the link above w/in the 1st directory (I named mine "Dynojet" but you can name it whatever you wish, just as long as directory structure holds true. You will also need to put any pep file w/in the 3rd (last) directory w/in the directory leg you're wanting them in.

Some of you all will share pep files (I will, doesn't bother me) so if you want mine lemme know. I will not have them until later today. Then you would make a "Bubba" 3rd subdirectory as shown and place mine w/in those.

Now, just play a lil bit w/ the viewer program and you'll have it down pat in no time. It's simple, so don't let it beat you in the heads.

BfB
 

tonysailor

Member
Established Member
Joined
Jul 26, 2001
Messages
69
Location
yorktown va
k&N

Man o man,

that is a lot of info. I have one question.

I am new to the "L" so be patience. Anytime I changed anything related to my Mustang that dealt with the computer... sometimes even the airfilter it took any where from 50-200 miles for the computer to get it's act together, or to relearn.

Is it the same with the "L's"? Sorry for the dumb question?

Tonysailor

Suggestion for those living in the desert. "Never be caught in the open when it raining steel!!"
 

FlaSVT

Moderator - 2nd Gen Forum
Established Member
Joined
Nov 13, 2000
Messages
683
Location
State of Euphoria
Anytime you do anything that can affect air flow, fuel etc there is a learning curve that the computer goes through. The same is true if you put a chip in. The quickest way to get past that is to disconnect the battery for a few minutes. That will cause computer to look at all of the sensors and relearn what it needs to be doing.
 

Chainsaw13

New Member
Established Member
Joined
May 17, 2001
Messages
70
Location
SE Mich
Bfb, have you done any mods to your stock airbox? I'm curious to see if opening it up in any way makes a difference. Could be that the stock opening through the fender well doesn't allow enough air to get into the box, thus negating any difference between the stock filter and the K&N.

I put a K&N in my 01, but I also put a 3" dia. piece of flex tubing out the bottom of the airbox and ran it down through the wheel well, just behind the bottom grill. Definitely can hear the blower more now as it's sucking in more air, kinda like the guys running the open elements. Haven't done any testing though to see if it really made any difference.

Bob
 

Users who are viewing this thread



Top