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2011-2014 Mustangs
2011-2014 Mustang Talk
2013 GT now takes 5w50??
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<blockquote data-quote="UnleashedBeast" data-source="post: 11791900" data-attributes="member: 112023"><p>0W-30 and 10W-30 are exactly the same viscosity at operating temperature. The only difference is 0W thickens less as it cools (flows easier at low temperatures). This doesn't really become an issue until the temperature drops below the freezing point of water. Even though engine oil is still a fluid at 32*F, that's my personal breaking point of what oil to choose. </p><p></p><p>Another issue is how hot it gets during the summer. For the ultimate in shear protection during very hot weather, a lubricant with a more narrow viscosity spread is the better choice for a high horsepower engine. It's far more shear stable, especially if you are stuck using a dino or hydrocracked petroleum formulation.</p><p></p><p>Don't sell short Amsoil 0W-30 though, I have a sample from a Terminator with ~5,000 miles, and it didn't shear at all. Amsoil calls it the best <em>passenger</em> car lubricant they formulate. </p><p></p><p>The only gain in power and efficiency is going to be using a true synthetic lubricant versus a dino or hydrocracked formulation. Since 0W-30 and 10W-30 Amsoil are the same viscosity at operating temperatures and both are the same true synthetic base stock, they will yield the same results. </p><p></p><p>The odd thing is, I actually GAINED 1 mpg on the highway consistently by changing from Mobil 1 5W-20 to Amsoil AZO 0W-30 (2008 Mustang GT 3V). Amsoil's formulation is a light 30 grade, not far from a heavy 20 grade status, and a superior base stock formulation. Of course it's going to yield better efficiency compared to Mobil 1 (hydrocracked/PAO blend - not 100% true)</p><p></p><p>Two good posts on the matter</p><p></p><p><strong><a href="http://www.teamshelby.com/forums/index.php/topic/66091-what-is-the-best-oil-to-use/page__view__findpost__p__1135426" target="_blank">Why a 10W-30?</a></strong></p><p></p><p><strong><a href="http://mustangforums.com/forum/7180665-post1.html" target="_blank">Efficiency increase and CAFE laws</a></strong></p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="UnleashedBeast, post: 11791900, member: 112023"] 0W-30 and 10W-30 are exactly the same viscosity at operating temperature. The only difference is 0W thickens less as it cools (flows easier at low temperatures). This doesn't really become an issue until the temperature drops below the freezing point of water. Even though engine oil is still a fluid at 32*F, that's my personal breaking point of what oil to choose. Another issue is how hot it gets during the summer. For the ultimate in shear protection during very hot weather, a lubricant with a more narrow viscosity spread is the better choice for a high horsepower engine. It's far more shear stable, especially if you are stuck using a dino or hydrocracked petroleum formulation. Don't sell short Amsoil 0W-30 though, I have a sample from a Terminator with ~5,000 miles, and it didn't shear at all. Amsoil calls it the best [I]passenger[/I] car lubricant they formulate. The only gain in power and efficiency is going to be using a true synthetic lubricant versus a dino or hydrocracked formulation. Since 0W-30 and 10W-30 Amsoil are the same viscosity at operating temperatures and both are the same true synthetic base stock, they will yield the same results. The odd thing is, I actually GAINED 1 mpg on the highway consistently by changing from Mobil 1 5W-20 to Amsoil AZO 0W-30 (2008 Mustang GT 3V). Amsoil's formulation is a light 30 grade, not far from a heavy 20 grade status, and a superior base stock formulation. Of course it's going to yield better efficiency compared to Mobil 1 (hydrocracked/PAO blend - not 100% true) Two good posts on the matter [B][URL="http://www.teamshelby.com/forums/index.php/topic/66091-what-is-the-best-oil-to-use/page__view__findpost__p__1135426"]Why a 10W-30?[/URL][/B] [B][URL="http://mustangforums.com/forum/7180665-post1.html"]Efficiency increase and CAFE laws[/URL][/B] [/QUOTE]
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