66 coupe build.

[Sendumpacken66]

I reacently bought a 66 mustang and am building it. It was kinda a rust bucket but I enjoy chalanges. I have already welded In the floor pans and they look great. The body work is about 75 % done and I bought a 302 and auto tranny to go in crime an 89 gt doner. I have run across a few minor things tho that I'm not sure the answer to. For starters the front end sits way up and I no this is partaly due to no motor but the pass. Wheel is like WAY in at the top. I breafly look but could tell. How do u adjust camber on this car? And the other is a fuel cell. What kind and where can I get it. All help is greatly apriciated guys and any advice or info will be extramly helpfull.

And I can't figure out how to upload pics can some help with that to lol

 

[Fast69Mach]

Camber is adjusted via the cam bolts on the lower control arms. If they are severely out of adjustment, it can mean that the shock tower is bent, which is fairly common on these cars.

As for the fuel cell, this is a good place to start.

 

[Sendumpacken66]

Thanks a lot man. And yea I will look into the shock tower thing. Another problem I have come across is the wiring harness. The original one is still in the car and for all I know it could work but that's a lot of chance knowing that one short could burn all of my hard work and money up in flames. So as far as a harness goes what would you recommend that I do? And it is ganna be a street car so I will need blinkers headlight exc. As far as in the dash the wires look fine but I can't say the same for the rear wireing. And I have no clue where the relays are. Once again any help needed would be greatly appriciated.

 

[Fast69Mach]

There's a few things you can do with the wiring.

1. You can strip it out of the car, and go through it completely yourself and replace things as needed.
2. You can take out the wiring, and send it off to someone to have it re-done. I think I have the number for a guy that does this, but I'll have to find it.
3. You can buy a new harness here . It's the same website as before, just a different section. This is the same section at CJ Pony Parts, one of the vendors on this site. I've bought a bunch of stuff through them, and definitely recommend them.

The wiring on these cars is far from difficult, so if you order the new harness, you can compare it to the one in the car currently and set it up in a similar fashion. Just make sure you save your original harness just in case.

 

[Boss 327]

When it comes time to do suspension and/or you wanna add some fiberglass to the car, make sure to check out Maier racing. My 66 is basically getting all they have for sale.

Maier Racing Enterprises - Suspension Fiberglass - Hayward, CA 94541

 

[Sendumpacken66]

thanks guys and ill go threw wiring. I bought a rearend out of an explorer with sigle track and complete disk breaks. iwould like to upgrade it with an lsd. what is a good one for it without spending a ton of money. and does anyone know if 66 modle was cabe or hydrolic clutch

 

[Sendumpacken66]

would this work? Ford Racing 8.8 in 31 Spline Traction - LOK Mustang Limited Slip Differential w/ Carbon Discs M-4204-F318C

and what about a break booster?one from the exsplorer work or could I modify it to?
hope im not asking to many questions.

 

[Sendumpacken66]

ok I have the diff. figured out and the complete rear suspension set up im doing. all I need to figure out now is break booster. if I wanted to run one off a late 90s erly 00 exsplorer would I need the pedel and all? and could I pull the vacuum off a carb and itt work properly? also I was wandering what would be a good front suspension set up without spending just a ton of money? any help is greatly appreciated.

Hunter-

 

[Sendumpacken66]

and if you could also tell me about some other front suspension parts that would be good. I want to be able to do some autocross and still drive like a normal person but it doesn't have to be to normal lol. I have only ever set up cars for drag racing never street AND cornering ability. once again any help or even direction for me to go in would be greatly appreciated.

 

[Pynikal]

Good luck with your build! Post up some pics so we can all see what you are working with. Also check out the vintage mustang forum, ton of good info on there.

 

[North500]

Camber is adjusted via the cam bolts on the lower control arms. If they are severely out of adjustment, it can mean that the shock tower is bent, which is fairly common on these cars.

This is true for 1967 and up, not so for 1966 unless you weld in eccentrics and grind out the lower control arm mount. You adjust both caster and camber using the upper control arm bolts. It is a serious pain to do it and you need a good assortment of shims. To get more or less castor you add or subtract shims from the front and rear bolts, which also affects the camber at the same time. Its a bit tricky, but doable. I added adjustable strut rods and adjustable lower control arm kit in my 1966 to make it easier as I do my own alignments. The shops look at you with googly eyes when you try and get them to align it and they will charge you a fortune to do it because it is so time consuming.

I recommend "Opentracker Racing Products", "Street or Track" or "Global West" for high performance driving and especially autocross.

A differential from a late model explorer will work, but the axles are unequal and will cause the pumpkin to be offset and could cause pinion angle issues. Do a search in the Vintage Mustang forums for other info on that.

As for brake booster, there are some kits out there that are short enough to fit, but most will not with a dual chamber unit (which you want, ditch the single pot ASAP!).

I run a CPP adjustable brake pot with no power booster, all wheel disk and its pretty easy to brake the car (1" bore).

 

[GeorgiaSnake]

here is some front suspension tips. Use Boss 302 front coils cut exactly 1 coil. also relocate the upper A arm 1" higher in the tower. There is a template for this that you should be able to Google and get a hold of. I did this 2 mods to my 65 coupe and I built it just for autocross. While at it if you are going to keep the original type of steering setup you can quicken is a bit by getting the power steering gearbox and adding the Shelby quick steering kit. Maier Racing used to sell this kit. Basicly its a different pitman and idler arm. another thing to consider is the rearend. Now what I used may be hard to find but if you can find it you will be better off. 1957 Ford Fairlane stationwagon rearend. That is the narrowest rearend Ford ever produced and it is a direct bolt in swop. Only thing you have to change is the parking brake cables. This is the same thing Shelby did with the racing GT 350's back in 1965. I also used a 4.11 Detroit Locker, I recommend a Locker for autocross over the standard type of limited slip rearend. I did all this and more to my 65 and the last year I raced it I took C/P class regional 1st place in the South Carolina Region of the SCCA.

The Snake