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66 coupe build.
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<blockquote data-quote="North500" data-source="post: 13463521" data-attributes="member: 152117"><p>This is true for 1967 and up, not so for 1966 unless you weld in eccentrics and grind out the lower control arm mount. You adjust both caster and camber using the upper control arm bolts. It is a serious pain to do it and you need a good assortment of shims. To get more or less castor you add or subtract shims from the front and rear bolts, which also affects the camber at the same time. Its a bit tricky, but doable. I added adjustable strut rods and adjustable lower control arm kit in my 1966 to make it easier as I do my own alignments. The shops look at you with googly eyes when you try and get them to align it and they will charge you a fortune to do it because it is so time consuming.</p><p></p><p>I recommend "Opentracker Racing Products", "Street or Track" or "Global West" for high performance driving and especially autocross.</p><p></p><p>A differential from a late model explorer will work, but the axles are unequal and will cause the pumpkin to be offset and could cause pinion angle issues. Do a search in the Vintage Mustang forums for other info on that.</p><p></p><p>As for brake booster, there are some kits out there that are short enough to fit, but most will not with a dual chamber unit (which you want, ditch the single pot ASAP!).</p><p></p><p>I run a CPP adjustable brake pot with no power booster, all wheel disk and its pretty easy to brake the car (1" bore).</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="North500, post: 13463521, member: 152117"] This is true for 1967 and up, not so for 1966 unless you weld in eccentrics and grind out the lower control arm mount. You adjust both caster and camber using the upper control arm bolts. It is a serious pain to do it and you need a good assortment of shims. To get more or less castor you add or subtract shims from the front and rear bolts, which also affects the camber at the same time. Its a bit tricky, but doable. I added adjustable strut rods and adjustable lower control arm kit in my 1966 to make it easier as I do my own alignments. The shops look at you with googly eyes when you try and get them to align it and they will charge you a fortune to do it because it is so time consuming. I recommend "Opentracker Racing Products", "Street or Track" or "Global West" for high performance driving and especially autocross. A differential from a late model explorer will work, but the axles are unequal and will cause the pumpkin to be offset and could cause pinion angle issues. Do a search in the Vintage Mustang forums for other info on that. As for brake booster, there are some kits out there that are short enough to fit, but most will not with a dual chamber unit (which you want, ditch the single pot ASAP!). I run a CPP adjustable brake pot with no power booster, all wheel disk and its pretty easy to brake the car (1" bore). [/QUOTE]
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