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96dreamer's Never Ending Build Thread
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<blockquote data-quote="96dreamer" data-source="post: 16814060" data-attributes="member: 52560"><p>Realized I never added pictures of the finished exhaust. Tucks up nicely although the midpipe doesn't like to sit centered. That is causing the joint in the middle of the x to leak a little on each side. I have some lap joint clamps to throw on that will hopefully take care of that. </p><p>[ATTACH=full]1759792[/ATTACH]</p><p>[ATTACH=full]1759793[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>Also snagged some pictures of the fuel lines completely wrapped near the rear axle/exhaust. </p><p>[ATTACH=full]1759794[/ATTACH]</p><p>[ATTACH=full]1759795[/ATTACH]</p><p>I mentioned earlier that I was trying to align the super charger to the best of my abilities. I had a laser alignment tool but I found even that wasn't fine enough to really do what I needed. So I started off by setting the car up on jack stands so that the crank was at 90° to the ground.</p><p>[ATTACH=full]1759796[/ATTACH]</p><p>The first thing I checked was if the blower was parallel to the crank vertically which checked out fine.</p><p>[ATTACH=full]1759797[/ATTACH]</p><p>Next i took a plumb bob and dropped down from the crank on both sides to a piece of tape I had on the ground to create a reference marks. You can see it hanging in the crank angle picture, it just isn't tight yet. Once I had that reference line I removed the balancer, water pump, idlers and tensioner to give room to drop the plum bob off all of the other pulleys. I stuck a magnetic light on the oil pan pointing down and used the shadow it created to line up a straight edge with the reference marks from the balancer. </p><p>[ATTACH=full]1759798[/ATTACH]</p><p>It's hard to see in the picture but the supercharger marks are just a hair off of the crank line. This was dropped down from the sc pulley to the straight edge. It was tough to measure but it came in about .065" out of alignment from the balancer. The AC and power steering were perfectly inline with the balancer and the Alternator was just a hair further out. All I did for the alternator was retorque the lower mounts and make a new set of hold down brackets for the top that should hopefully do a better job of keeping it from flexing. </p><p>[ATTACH=full]1759799[/ATTACH]</p><p>I had 1 washer behind each of the mounting bracket spacers that were about .045" thick so I went ahead and removed those and redropped the line. </p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]1759800[/ATTACH]</p><p>This was the result. Hard to get a good picture but it is pretty much dead nuts over the edge of the straight edge. I was pretty happy with this so I went ahead and buttoned up the front end of the car again.[ATTACH=full]1759801[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>I was able to take the car out for a decent test drive last weekend and the modifications to the pulley alignment seemed to work. Belt didn't move after several wot runs as well as some decent engine decel which is where I could most frequently replicate the issue. </p><p></p><p>Unfortunately the trip wasn't without it's issues. The ambient temperature was about 88°F and although it took a little longer the fuel temp eventually got up to 115°F when the car started having erratic fuel pressure and started running rough. This was with all of the lines near the exhaust wrapped in heat sleeve and the return line ran to the opposite side of the tank as the pickup. I am thinking that the first instance of cavitation was enough to hurt the pump permanently which is now driving up my temperatures. So i am currently debating sending back to Fuelab for inspection.</p><p></p><p>On a positive note one of the pulls I did while testing appeared to show my knock sensors working correctly. The car currently has 93 in it with the waste gate set ~10lbs. I did a pull from 3k to 7k saw a peak of 11 lbs and in the middle it detected a knock event, pulled 2 degrees of timing two ignition events in a row for a total of 4 degrees. It then ramped right back up to the standard timing curve and finished the pull without issues. I had no idea during the pull any of it happened.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="96dreamer, post: 16814060, member: 52560"] Realized I never added pictures of the finished exhaust. Tucks up nicely although the midpipe doesn't like to sit centered. That is causing the joint in the middle of the x to leak a little on each side. I have some lap joint clamps to throw on that will hopefully take care of that. [ATTACH type="full"]1759792[/ATTACH] [ATTACH type="full"]1759793[/ATTACH] Also snagged some pictures of the fuel lines completely wrapped near the rear axle/exhaust. [ATTACH type="full"]1759794[/ATTACH] [ATTACH type="full"]1759795[/ATTACH] I mentioned earlier that I was trying to align the super charger to the best of my abilities. I had a laser alignment tool but I found even that wasn't fine enough to really do what I needed. So I started off by setting the car up on jack stands so that the crank was at 90° to the ground. [ATTACH type="full"]1759796[/ATTACH] The first thing I checked was if the blower was parallel to the crank vertically which checked out fine. [ATTACH type="full"]1759797[/ATTACH] Next i took a plumb bob and dropped down from the crank on both sides to a piece of tape I had on the ground to create a reference marks. You can see it hanging in the crank angle picture, it just isn't tight yet. Once I had that reference line I removed the balancer, water pump, idlers and tensioner to give room to drop the plum bob off all of the other pulleys. I stuck a magnetic light on the oil pan pointing down and used the shadow it created to line up a straight edge with the reference marks from the balancer. [ATTACH type="full"]1759798[/ATTACH] It's hard to see in the picture but the supercharger marks are just a hair off of the crank line. This was dropped down from the sc pulley to the straight edge. It was tough to measure but it came in about .065" out of alignment from the balancer. The AC and power steering were perfectly inline with the balancer and the Alternator was just a hair further out. All I did for the alternator was retorque the lower mounts and make a new set of hold down brackets for the top that should hopefully do a better job of keeping it from flexing. [ATTACH type="full"]1759799[/ATTACH] I had 1 washer behind each of the mounting bracket spacers that were about .045" thick so I went ahead and removed those and redropped the line. [ATTACH type="full"]1759800[/ATTACH] This was the result. Hard to get a good picture but it is pretty much dead nuts over the edge of the straight edge. I was pretty happy with this so I went ahead and buttoned up the front end of the car again.[ATTACH type="full"]1759801[/ATTACH] I was able to take the car out for a decent test drive last weekend and the modifications to the pulley alignment seemed to work. Belt didn't move after several wot runs as well as some decent engine decel which is where I could most frequently replicate the issue. Unfortunately the trip wasn't without it's issues. The ambient temperature was about 88°F and although it took a little longer the fuel temp eventually got up to 115°F when the car started having erratic fuel pressure and started running rough. This was with all of the lines near the exhaust wrapped in heat sleeve and the return line ran to the opposite side of the tank as the pickup. I am thinking that the first instance of cavitation was enough to hurt the pump permanently which is now driving up my temperatures. So i am currently debating sending back to Fuelab for inspection. On a positive note one of the pulls I did while testing appeared to show my knock sensors working correctly. The car currently has 93 in it with the waste gate set ~10lbs. I did a pull from 3k to 7k saw a peak of 11 lbs and in the middle it detected a knock event, pulled 2 degrees of timing two ignition events in a row for a total of 4 degrees. It then ramped right back up to the standard timing curve and finished the pull without issues. I had no idea during the pull any of it happened. [/QUOTE]
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