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SVTPerformance's Chain of Restaurants
Show'n'Shine Saloon
any ongoing Paint & Body projects?
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<blockquote data-quote="KTTrucks" data-source="post: 11474584" data-attributes="member: 116769"><p>as far as the stripping process goes, be aware that soda blasting, although VERY kind to metal, need a separate process of cleaning after the blasting. The residue will interfere with paint, primer, etc.. .sticking to the metal, and unless you thoroughly clean it it can leach out of pinch seams and gaps... not good. Mechanical is more cost effective for you, but it takes more time.... it depends on what resource you have most, time or cash... either way it costs <img src="data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7" class="smilie smilie--sprite smilie--sprite1" alt=":)" title="Smile :)" loading="lazy" data-shortname=":)" /> To strip manually, I'd recommend an aircraft stripper and scrapers to start.... then when you gedt it close to all bare steel, come back with 80 grit to clean any residue off, follow that with 180 of the metal is ready for primer, coarser than that if oyu need to do bodywork. For teardown, make sure you use a digital camera BEFORE you disassemble anything..... keep one in the shop, and before you take off bolts and parts, take a picture. during disassembly, label EVERYTHING!!!!!! no matter how rediculous it may seem to put an ide tag or tape on your door handle ( you know it's a door handle...) do it anyway. If you take a bold out of the headlight bezel.... PUT IT BACK INTO THE PART IT CAME FROM.... this is much easier than searching through a ton of envelopes or a bolt bucket dumped out on the floor for a specific fastener. When you go to reassemble the car, you can group parts according to the tags and be much more organized, and finding specific fasteners ( flush mount screws for the drip rail molding, dome head fasteners for latches,, spring steel clips for lock rods... etc) This precess costs time and energy on disassembly and teardown, but SAVES BIGTIME on reassembly.</p><p></p><p>KT.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="KTTrucks, post: 11474584, member: 116769"] as far as the stripping process goes, be aware that soda blasting, although VERY kind to metal, need a separate process of cleaning after the blasting. The residue will interfere with paint, primer, etc.. .sticking to the metal, and unless you thoroughly clean it it can leach out of pinch seams and gaps... not good. Mechanical is more cost effective for you, but it takes more time.... it depends on what resource you have most, time or cash... either way it costs :) To strip manually, I'd recommend an aircraft stripper and scrapers to start.... then when you gedt it close to all bare steel, come back with 80 grit to clean any residue off, follow that with 180 of the metal is ready for primer, coarser than that if oyu need to do bodywork. For teardown, make sure you use a digital camera BEFORE you disassemble anything..... keep one in the shop, and before you take off bolts and parts, take a picture. during disassembly, label EVERYTHING!!!!!! no matter how rediculous it may seem to put an ide tag or tape on your door handle ( you know it's a door handle...) do it anyway. If you take a bold out of the headlight bezel.... PUT IT BACK INTO THE PART IT CAME FROM.... this is much easier than searching through a ton of envelopes or a bolt bucket dumped out on the floor for a specific fastener. When you go to reassemble the car, you can group parts according to the tags and be much more organized, and finding specific fasteners ( flush mount screws for the drip rail molding, dome head fasteners for latches,, spring steel clips for lock rods... etc) This precess costs time and energy on disassembly and teardown, but SAVES BIGTIME on reassembly. KT. [/QUOTE]
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SVTPerformance's Chain of Restaurants
Show'n'Shine Saloon
any ongoing Paint & Body projects?
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