a good one. where to get the block from, how to make the heads from the 2.5 fit (i hear that's what they do) what needs to be changed to make it bolt in, etc etc. thanks in advance
anybody have a walk-through for 3.0L swap?
- Thread starter ClOckwOrk
- Start date
No one has compiled a complete how-to on the 3.0L swap. There are too many options. CEG has the best wealth of resources available to do the swap. When I started mine 2 years ago, I got all the info from there. You might also look at www.fastcougar.com, I personally haven't been there in a while, but I hear they have pretty good info as well.
If you narrow down your focus, then I can assist when you can't find a specific answer to a problem.
If you narrow down your focus, then I can assist when you can't find a specific answer to a problem.
dont use the 2.5 heads....u will still have the oil drainage problem..use the 3l heads
The cougar site Ryan mentioned has a pretty decent walk through with pictures.
2.5L heads= compression
thats what i want, this thing's gotta hang with n/a stangs, lol.
i would use the 3.0 heads but i have heard that the SVT cams do not fit on it, and that is a big no-no. every part that is SVT only from the heads on up needs to be the SVT equipment (thats my rule, dangit!)
the oil drainage problem is fixable i hear, a little welding is required from what i have read though.
thats what i want, this thing's gotta hang with n/a stangs, lol.
i would use the 3.0 heads but i have heard that the SVT cams do not fit on it, and that is a big no-no. every part that is SVT only from the heads on up needs to be the SVT equipment (thats my rule, dangit!)
the oil drainage problem is fixable i hear, a little welding is required from what i have read though.
The bump in compression from the 2.5L heads doesn't seem to help with the HP when compared to those with the 3L heads. I've had both versions and I couldn't tell the difference. 3L's don't have the oiling issues so they are really the best option when you eliminate the supposid jump in hp from the compression.
While we are on the topic, what are some of the routes that you can use? Stock block bored over? New block what. Just kinda want to hear some different routes on how it can be done. I am considering doing one next year some time. And just want to know all the available options. Sorry for being a noob but I have worked on nothing but mustangs my whole life and when I had my first CSVT I wasn't that mechanically inclined.
It all depends on what you have. I wanted the c/r. I had the 2.5L heads. I bought a short block. And at the time, PnP 2.5L heads were the 'in' thing so I went htat route. If I had to do it today, I'd think about hte oval ports, but there are two things to consider 1)some people don't have the $$$ for Kinger's modified heads that can just be dropped on 2) some don't have the skill to modify them themselves. For 'ease' the hybrid is the way to go.....Blackcoog said:
You can bored the 3.0L, but IMO the $$$ doesn't offset the gains. I think 1mm or 2mm has been done.1slosnake said:
Check out www.ceg.org -> forums -> 3.0L section and read the stickies, it outlines the various different routes one can go.
Quickly,
Hybrid 3.0L = 3.0L shortblock with 2.5L heads and SVT intakes, etc
Oval Port 3.0L = 3.0L long block w/ 3.0L heads modified for the 2.5L intakes
Full Oval Port 3.0L = 3.0L long block and intakes.
RTStabler51 said:
If I ever have to go 3L that's the route I'm taking.
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