Home
What's new
Latest activity
Authors
Store
Latest reviews
Search products
Forums
New posts
Search forums
What's new
New posts
New listings
New products
New profile posts
Latest activity
Members
Current visitors
New profile posts
Search profile posts
Log in
Register
Cart
Cart
Loading…
What's new
Search
Search
Search titles only
By:
New posts
Search forums
Search titles only
By:
Menu
Log in
Register
Navigation
Install the app
Install
More options
Change style
Contact us
Close Menu
Forums
Cobra Forums
SVT Shelby GT500
Anyone paint their rear axle/pumpkin?
JavaScript is disabled. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding.
You are using an out of date browser. It may not display this or other websites correctly.
You should upgrade or use an
alternative browser
.
Reply to thread
Message
<blockquote data-quote="Robert M" data-source="post: 12407423" data-attributes="member: 9628"><p>^^^Thanks.......yes, it is all about the details.</p><p></p><p>All chemical for the rust removal. Using a grinder/wire brush would have scratched the metal, using a bead/sand blaster would have etched the metal. <<<All which would have ruined the ability to get back to the satin shiney look of the original metal.</p><p></p><p>I used the rust remover shown below......</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]392198[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>^^^This leaves a dull finish on the metal, but the rust is removed. It takes several applications as you work though each area, axle tubes, inside of brackets, outside of brackets etc. and then thoroughly cleaning everything with laquer thinner, all navel jelly must be removed.</p><p></p><p>Then to get the steel back to its original fresh bare steel look it required buffing all of the bare metal with steel wool, first 00 and finally 0000. <<This brings the finish of the steel back to its somewhat shiney/satin look. <<Again, fully recleaning all metal with laquer thinner.</p><p></p><p>Ok, then there is the clear. I tried many clears, gloss (too glossy), Matte (took away the satin shiner look of the natural steel) and then satin. Satin from home Depot looked ok, but it was still not quite the "correct" look. It seemed to add a dull yellow clear coating to the steel. I finally ended up with the Bare Steel Diamond Clear spray from Eastwood. <<<<That is the ticket for the correct look!!</p><p></p><p>The clears.........</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]392199[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>^^^Eastwood is it, if a person is going to get this anal with their axle restoration!</p><p></p><p>Ok, then the assy. line markings. In the "old days" Ford used Markal Paint Sticks for assy. line markings, now they use Markal Paint Markers. The colors that were used on my axle are shown below........</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]392200[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>There are two yellows shown above, the samller one is a fine line marker, the other has a wider tip, both were used on my axle so to replicate the markings correctly, I needed both. All other marking colors were made with the wider tip paint markers.</p><p></p><p>The gold and yellow paint daub/dots on the pinion yoke.......those I had to make with paint.</p><p></p><p></p><p>For the machined surfaces on the center section I used a bare metal steel/silver paint and for the welds I used a brighter silver paint for the freshly welded look.</p><p></p><p></p><p>^^^^^^^^^All of this was VERY time consuming!!!!!!! First of all to identify what was needed to make it look right, and then getting it right. At one point I had fully painted both sides brackets inside and out, axle tubes everthing with a "bare steel silver". Then I realized that it looked "ok", but it looked "painted". These axles were not painted, so I had to completely clean everything, brackets inside and out, tubes, everything, all paint had to be removed if I had any thought of going with clear. <<And then start over with a different approach......making it look "right".</p><p></p><p>After all of the restoration, the easy part was test fitting and deciding on a cover.........</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]392201[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p></p><p>^^^^Also shown in the picture above, those cast iron harmonic weights, or whatever they are........I bead blaster the rust off of them, cleaned them with laquer thinner, and sprayed them with Eastwood Natural Cast Iron paint. <<It may have been called Cast Blast.</p><p></p><p></p><p></p><p> </p><p>R</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Robert M, post: 12407423, member: 9628"] ^^^Thanks.......yes, it is all about the details. All chemical for the rust removal. Using a grinder/wire brush would have scratched the metal, using a bead/sand blaster would have etched the metal. <<<All which would have ruined the ability to get back to the satin shiney look of the original metal. I used the rust remover shown below...... [ATTACH=full]392198[/ATTACH] ^^^This leaves a dull finish on the metal, but the rust is removed. It takes several applications as you work though each area, axle tubes, inside of brackets, outside of brackets etc. and then thoroughly cleaning everything with laquer thinner, all navel jelly must be removed. Then to get the steel back to its original fresh bare steel look it required buffing all of the bare metal with steel wool, first 00 and finally 0000. <<This brings the finish of the steel back to its somewhat shiney/satin look. <<Again, fully recleaning all metal with laquer thinner. Ok, then there is the clear. I tried many clears, gloss (too glossy), Matte (took away the satin shiner look of the natural steel) and then satin. Satin from home Depot looked ok, but it was still not quite the "correct" look. It seemed to add a dull yellow clear coating to the steel. I finally ended up with the Bare Steel Diamond Clear spray from Eastwood. <<<<That is the ticket for the correct look!! The clears......... [ATTACH=full]392199[/ATTACH] ^^^Eastwood is it, if a person is going to get this anal with their axle restoration! Ok, then the assy. line markings. In the "old days" Ford used Markal Paint Sticks for assy. line markings, now they use Markal Paint Markers. The colors that were used on my axle are shown below........ [ATTACH=full]392200[/ATTACH] There are two yellows shown above, the samller one is a fine line marker, the other has a wider tip, both were used on my axle so to replicate the markings correctly, I needed both. All other marking colors were made with the wider tip paint markers. The gold and yellow paint daub/dots on the pinion yoke.......those I had to make with paint. For the machined surfaces on the center section I used a bare metal steel/silver paint and for the welds I used a brighter silver paint for the freshly welded look. ^^^^^^^^^All of this was VERY time consuming!!!!!!! First of all to identify what was needed to make it look right, and then getting it right. At one point I had fully painted both sides brackets inside and out, axle tubes everthing with a "bare steel silver". Then I realized that it looked "ok", but it looked "painted". These axles were not painted, so I had to completely clean everything, brackets inside and out, tubes, everything, all paint had to be removed if I had any thought of going with clear. <<And then start over with a different approach......making it look "right". After all of the restoration, the easy part was test fitting and deciding on a cover......... [ATTACH=full]392201[/ATTACH] ^^^^Also shown in the picture above, those cast iron harmonic weights, or whatever they are........I bead blaster the rust off of them, cleaned them with laquer thinner, and sprayed them with Eastwood Natural Cast Iron paint. <<It may have been called Cast Blast. R [/QUOTE]
Insert quotes…
Verification
Post reply
Forums
Cobra Forums
SVT Shelby GT500
Anyone paint their rear axle/pumpkin?
Top