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Anyone who's pulled their motor - help.
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<blockquote data-quote="MalcolmV8" data-source="post: 8023097" data-attributes="member: 8854"><p>Thanks I'll run my nail over the bores when I get all the pistons out. I did that briefly last night in the #4 cylinder that I've already removed the piston and I couldn't feel anything at all.</p><p></p><p>I will take the crank out myself to save the machine shop costs. They told me it would be $350 to re-install the crank because they put the main bearings back without the crank and measure inside diameter and then measure crank. He said they make sure they get that to .001 clearance I think he said. I assume that process involves some machining of the crank to get it exact? I don't know for sure.</p><p>That $350 also included assembly of the rods and pistons. Basic short block assembly I suppose you'd call it. Not sure if that's worth the money or not.</p><p>I do want the motor done right as I don't plan on breaking it again <img src="data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7" class="smilie smilie--sprite smilie--sprite1" alt=":)" title="Smile :)" loading="lazy" data-shortname=":)" /></p><p></p><p>As for rod caps what I meant was do I have to worry about which way around the cap goes on? for example the #4 piston rod cap I took off, I could flip it around and put it on the other way. I noticed there's a key inside the rod cap which prevents the bearing from moving side to side. The key on the top half of the rod and the key in the cap appear to be on opposite sides of each other. Anyways I just wanted to see if it was important to know which way around the rod cap was installed. Like which side of the rod cap faced the front of the motor.</p><p></p><p>I had called a machine shop a couple weeks ago or so because I had a feeling it was a piston and here's what they told me.</p><p></p><p>$200 bore and hone block with torque plates</p><p>$125 to surface the decks</p><p>$75 ~ $125 to line bore</p><p>$75 to surface heads</p><p>$500 to $700 for a set of pistons</p><p>$350 to assemble short block</p><p>$45 to polish crank</p><p>$175 to $200 to balance crank</p><p></p><p>I really have no idea how much of that is required etc. I just sort of take their word on it. Do those prices seem reasonable?</p><p></p><p>Oh and I said Ford for bearings because I had planned on placing an order with Tousley Ford (on this site) for gaskets etc. since they give a discount and figured I could get the bearings at the same time. I'll check around though.</p><p></p><p>Oh yeah what about those head bolts? are those one time use bolts that I need to replace?</p><p></p><p>Thanks again</p><p>Malcolm</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="MalcolmV8, post: 8023097, member: 8854"] Thanks I'll run my nail over the bores when I get all the pistons out. I did that briefly last night in the #4 cylinder that I've already removed the piston and I couldn't feel anything at all. I will take the crank out myself to save the machine shop costs. They told me it would be $350 to re-install the crank because they put the main bearings back without the crank and measure inside diameter and then measure crank. He said they make sure they get that to .001 clearance I think he said. I assume that process involves some machining of the crank to get it exact? I don't know for sure. That $350 also included assembly of the rods and pistons. Basic short block assembly I suppose you'd call it. Not sure if that's worth the money or not. I do want the motor done right as I don't plan on breaking it again :) As for rod caps what I meant was do I have to worry about which way around the cap goes on? for example the #4 piston rod cap I took off, I could flip it around and put it on the other way. I noticed there's a key inside the rod cap which prevents the bearing from moving side to side. The key on the top half of the rod and the key in the cap appear to be on opposite sides of each other. Anyways I just wanted to see if it was important to know which way around the rod cap was installed. Like which side of the rod cap faced the front of the motor. I had called a machine shop a couple weeks ago or so because I had a feeling it was a piston and here's what they told me. $200 bore and hone block with torque plates $125 to surface the decks $75 ~ $125 to line bore $75 to surface heads $500 to $700 for a set of pistons $350 to assemble short block $45 to polish crank $175 to $200 to balance crank I really have no idea how much of that is required etc. I just sort of take their word on it. Do those prices seem reasonable? Oh and I said Ford for bearings because I had planned on placing an order with Tousley Ford (on this site) for gaskets etc. since they give a discount and figured I could get the bearings at the same time. I'll check around though. Oh yeah what about those head bolts? are those one time use bolts that I need to replace? Thanks again Malcolm [/QUOTE]
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Anyone who's pulled their motor - help.
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