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Cobra R's
Best Place to attach straps/trailering 2000 R
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<blockquote data-quote="mrmustang" data-source="post: 4205442" data-attributes="member: 13150"><p>Robert,</p><p></p><p> Pardon me while I ramble just a bit in my pre-caffienated, early AM state of mind, I will try to get my point across without taking up several pages:rolling: . Everyone has to remember that you are not exerting a huge amount of force on the car or the suspension past the point of a hard turn in equivalent to being on turn 9 (or in the boot) at Watkins Glen <img src="data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7" class="smilie smilie--sprite smilie--sprite7" alt=":p" title="Stick Out Tongue :p" loading="lazy" data-shortname=":p" />oke: ;-) . The whole idea behind the rear straps and the crossing of them is to prevent any side to side movement while the car is on the trailer. The physics of the movement of the car on the trailer as it is going down the road shows that the back straps should be crossed to prevent this unwanted movement. I have personally seen cars who's owners did not cross the straps literally walk off the end of the trailer, or up against the wheel wells causing damage. In going back to your original topic of discussion, on the IRS equipped cars again I try to tie it down by the control arms first, but if the car is set too low to the ground making this impossible, then the axle strap through the rims is the only option (unless you have the "E" tracks) and again is not exerting any more force than stated above on the suspension as you only need to take the slack out of the straps by snugging them down. While on that subject, have you ever seen someone tie down their cars with the straps until there is no suspension travel left (like you see on new car carriers), well, this is what causes breakage if you subscribe to that type of tie down method and the straps through the rims. Again, if you follow my instructions above and snug down the car (no more than two three clicks (MAX) past getting the slack out of the tie down straps), you should never have any problems unless you are using a trailer too small for the car in which you are carrying (ever see a 71 BOSS 351 Mustang on a trailer meant for a 914 Porsche, I have and it's not a pretty picture). Again, each trailer and each car is a bit different, but all of the tie down methods are similar in nature, if you follow the instructions above, you and your car will be in a much safer towing situation.</p><p></p><p></p><p>Hope you find this additional information helpful.</p><p></p><p>Sincerely,</p><p></p><p>Bill S.</p><p></p><p></p><p>PS: Now with that said, I'm off to get my first cup of coffee, as you can never (NEVER) have too much coffee <img src="data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7" class="smilie smilie--sprite smilie--sprite7" alt=":p" title="Stick Out Tongue :p" loading="lazy" data-shortname=":p" />epper: :banana: <img src="data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7" class="smilie smilie--sprite smilie--sprite7" alt=":p" title="Stick Out Tongue :p" loading="lazy" data-shortname=":p" />epper: .</p><p></p><p>PSS: You want my view on trailer vs tow vehicle next.</p><p>:lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="mrmustang, post: 4205442, member: 13150"] Robert, Pardon me while I ramble just a bit in my pre-caffienated, early AM state of mind, I will try to get my point across without taking up several pages:rolling: . Everyone has to remember that you are not exerting a huge amount of force on the car or the suspension past the point of a hard turn in equivalent to being on turn 9 (or in the boot) at Watkins Glen :poke: ;-) . The whole idea behind the rear straps and the crossing of them is to prevent any side to side movement while the car is on the trailer. The physics of the movement of the car on the trailer as it is going down the road shows that the back straps should be crossed to prevent this unwanted movement. I have personally seen cars who's owners did not cross the straps literally walk off the end of the trailer, or up against the wheel wells causing damage. In going back to your original topic of discussion, on the IRS equipped cars again I try to tie it down by the control arms first, but if the car is set too low to the ground making this impossible, then the axle strap through the rims is the only option (unless you have the "E" tracks) and again is not exerting any more force than stated above on the suspension as you only need to take the slack out of the straps by snugging them down. While on that subject, have you ever seen someone tie down their cars with the straps until there is no suspension travel left (like you see on new car carriers), well, this is what causes breakage if you subscribe to that type of tie down method and the straps through the rims. Again, if you follow my instructions above and snug down the car (no more than two three clicks (MAX) past getting the slack out of the tie down straps), you should never have any problems unless you are using a trailer too small for the car in which you are carrying (ever see a 71 BOSS 351 Mustang on a trailer meant for a 914 Porsche, I have and it's not a pretty picture). Again, each trailer and each car is a bit different, but all of the tie down methods are similar in nature, if you follow the instructions above, you and your car will be in a much safer towing situation. Hope you find this additional information helpful. Sincerely, Bill S. PS: Now with that said, I'm off to get my first cup of coffee, as you can never (NEVER) have too much coffee :pepper: :banana: :pepper: . PSS: You want my view on trailer vs tow vehicle next. :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: [/QUOTE]
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