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Black Gold 380R's 65 Mustang Build Thread
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<blockquote data-quote="Black Gold 380R" data-source="post: 16787021" data-attributes="member: 70025"><p>Then Summit has their wording wrong Bob........</p><p></p><p>[URL unfurl="true"]https://help.summitracing.com/app/answers/detail/a_id/4708/~/how-do-i-break-in-my%C2%A0roller-camshaft-and-lifters%3F[/URL]</p><p></p><p>I found this online today. I like what it says because it's basically what I've been doing after the cam procedure....</p><p></p><p>No cam break in needed with a roller.</p><p></p><p>Fire it up, check the timing, let it build a little heat to pressurize the cooling system to check for leaks, then take it for a short drive ASAP to seat the rings. Do a couple of moderate (not hard) acceleration runs to get a load on it, then pull over and check for leaks again. If all good, drive home doing a couple more acceleration runs, then start fine-tuning, and sorting out any other issues.</p><p></p><p>When I worked at Panoz Motorsports in '99 and '00, we were building what were essentially 6-liter (bored and stroked), all aluminum, dry-sump, Boss 302's for the 24-hours of LeMans. We'd get the engine on the dyno, check for leaks, and drop a load on the engine as quickly as possible. As soon as the dyno load came in, you'd see the crankcase pressure drop into the dirt in the blink of an eye as the rings seated. After the engine heat soaked, we'd go straight into 8,000 rpm dyno pulls.</p><p></p><p>You can run the engine in your driveway all day, but all you're doing is polishing the bores until you get a load on it. Drain the oil after about 500 miles, and cut the filter open to make sure nothing is coming apart. Make sure you run conventional oil for that first start-up, or the rings may never seat.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Black Gold 380R, post: 16787021, member: 70025"] Then Summit has their wording wrong Bob........ [URL unfurl="true"]https://help.summitracing.com/app/answers/detail/a_id/4708/~/how-do-i-break-in-my%C2%A0roller-camshaft-and-lifters%3F[/URL] I found this online today. I like what it says because it's basically what I've been doing after the cam procedure.... No cam break in needed with a roller. Fire it up, check the timing, let it build a little heat to pressurize the cooling system to check for leaks, then take it for a short drive ASAP to seat the rings. Do a couple of moderate (not hard) acceleration runs to get a load on it, then pull over and check for leaks again. If all good, drive home doing a couple more acceleration runs, then start fine-tuning, and sorting out any other issues. When I worked at Panoz Motorsports in '99 and '00, we were building what were essentially 6-liter (bored and stroked), all aluminum, dry-sump, Boss 302's for the 24-hours of LeMans. We'd get the engine on the dyno, check for leaks, and drop a load on the engine as quickly as possible. As soon as the dyno load came in, you'd see the crankcase pressure drop into the dirt in the blink of an eye as the rings seated. After the engine heat soaked, we'd go straight into 8,000 rpm dyno pulls. You can run the engine in your driveway all day, but all you're doing is polishing the bores until you get a load on it. Drain the oil after about 500 miles, and cut the filter open to make sure nothing is coming apart. Make sure you run conventional oil for that first start-up, or the rings may never seat. [/QUOTE]
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