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SN-95 and New Edge Mustangs
blew the motor, starting the re build MMR750
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<blockquote data-quote="Three21" data-source="post: 15879683" data-attributes="member: 158276"><p>I wouldn't go for TFS heads and intake for 500hp. </p><p></p><p>I'm currently reworking my stock heads now with some mild porting, TFS upgraded springs/locks/retainers, new valve seals and hand lapping the valves. Mine won't need any more than that.</p><p></p><p>Before breaking them down I flipped the heads over and filled the chamber with water then forced air down the ports to check the valve seats for leaks. </p><p></p><p>After pulling the springs check the valves for how much play they have in the guide. I had basically 0 movement on the intake valves and a tiny wiggle on all exhaust valves (clearance for heat+expansion) so mine were good to go. If you have excess movement you will need a machine shop to remove and press in new ones. If that's the case have them do a 3-angle valve job while they're at it. </p><p></p><p>Unless you lifted a head or overheated the engine you shouldn't need the heads to be decked.</p><p></p><p>Regarding timing, I went with TFS adjustable crank gears. I've heard too many horror stories about the adj cam gears. I'm not much help other than that as I will be doing it in the next few months myself, but there are plenty of How-to's here and on other sites.</p><p></p><p>Have fun with your rebuild. I recommend picking up Sean Hyland's "How to Build Max Performance 4.6L Ford Engines". It has some useful info on clearances and touches on all parts of the engine top to bottom.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Three21, post: 15879683, member: 158276"] I wouldn't go for TFS heads and intake for 500hp. I'm currently reworking my stock heads now with some mild porting, TFS upgraded springs/locks/retainers, new valve seals and hand lapping the valves. Mine won't need any more than that. Before breaking them down I flipped the heads over and filled the chamber with water then forced air down the ports to check the valve seats for leaks. After pulling the springs check the valves for how much play they have in the guide. I had basically 0 movement on the intake valves and a tiny wiggle on all exhaust valves (clearance for heat+expansion) so mine were good to go. If you have excess movement you will need a machine shop to remove and press in new ones. If that's the case have them do a 3-angle valve job while they're at it. Unless you lifted a head or overheated the engine you shouldn't need the heads to be decked. Regarding timing, I went with TFS adjustable crank gears. I've heard too many horror stories about the adj cam gears. I'm not much help other than that as I will be doing it in the next few months myself, but there are plenty of How-to's here and on other sites. Have fun with your rebuild. I recommend picking up Sean Hyland's "How to Build Max Performance 4.6L Ford Engines". It has some useful info on clearances and touches on all parts of the engine top to bottom. [/QUOTE]
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SN-95 and New Edge Mustangs
blew the motor, starting the re build MMR750
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