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<blockquote data-quote="GNBRETT" data-source="post: 16594245" data-attributes="member: 111882"><p>You dont need to port the heads thats a waste of money. Cousin made 1401 whp on stock Gen 1 coyote heads dont waste money there. Shit, I made a 1000 whp on 93 pump thru Gen 1 heads at 18 psi. They flow fine trust me. U will gain NOTHING at ur HP level!</p><p></p><p>I would opt for some PAC valve (1234) springs and titanium retainers tho for sure in case u turn it up. Even BOSS springs start to float at 15 lbs.</p><p></p><p>If I was looking to just buy a reasonably priced short block I would opt for MMR which is what I have in my motor for (4) straight years now beating the BALLS off it! And btw that 1000 whp was made on that motor after it had 28k miles on it! So id say compression is still really good! I drive the shit out of my Mustang lol.</p><p></p><p>That quote definitely didnt include sleeves but it all depends on ur HP goals but just remember the goals u have TODAY will NOT be the goals u have a year later so opting for sleeves gives u room to grow if u feel u need to go faster and u will for sure! Promod refers to the Sleeves being installed. Without its a couple thousand cheaper and u definitely want ARP head studs.</p><p></p><p>People crack on MMR but its been the most reliable motor ive ever owned period! I would opt for the Pro Mod setup with PAC springs. My advice is spend a little extra money on PAC springs and sleeves that way u know there is no blower setup that wont hold the power. The I-Beams and crank is the same everyone else uses.</p><p></p><p>Like an idiot when I had my motor built I opted for BOSS springs vs. PAC springs? Why? Cause im ****ing stupid and thought I would never need to make more than 800 whp. Here is a price for the long block from MMR without PAC springs and titanium retainers which is BIG job and cost me with parts and labor another $1800. U dont need cams either. [ATTACH=full]1694713[/ATTACH]</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="GNBRETT, post: 16594245, member: 111882"] You dont need to port the heads thats a waste of money. Cousin made 1401 whp on stock Gen 1 coyote heads dont waste money there. Shit, I made a 1000 whp on 93 pump thru Gen 1 heads at 18 psi. They flow fine trust me. U will gain NOTHING at ur HP level! I would opt for some PAC valve (1234) springs and titanium retainers tho for sure in case u turn it up. Even BOSS springs start to float at 15 lbs. If I was looking to just buy a reasonably priced short block I would opt for MMR which is what I have in my motor for (4) straight years now beating the BALLS off it! And btw that 1000 whp was made on that motor after it had 28k miles on it! So id say compression is still really good! I drive the shit out of my Mustang lol. That quote definitely didnt include sleeves but it all depends on ur HP goals but just remember the goals u have TODAY will NOT be the goals u have a year later so opting for sleeves gives u room to grow if u feel u need to go faster and u will for sure! Promod refers to the Sleeves being installed. Without its a couple thousand cheaper and u definitely want ARP head studs. People crack on MMR but its been the most reliable motor ive ever owned period! I would opt for the Pro Mod setup with PAC springs. My advice is spend a little extra money on PAC springs and sleeves that way u know there is no blower setup that wont hold the power. The I-Beams and crank is the same everyone else uses. Like an idiot when I had my motor built I opted for BOSS springs vs. PAC springs? Why? Cause im ****ing stupid and thought I would never need to make more than 800 whp. Here is a price for the long block from MMR without PAC springs and titanium retainers which is BIG job and cost me with parts and labor another $1800. U dont need cams either. [ATTACH=full]1694713[/ATTACH] [/QUOTE]
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