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SVTPerformance's Chain of Restaurants
Road Side Pub
c5 z06's
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<blockquote data-quote="carnut101" data-source="post: 8579866" data-attributes="member: 30764"><p>Dont slam the car without coilovers. You will literally be on the bump stops of the shocks. Also, the car starts to act funny once you lower it beyond having the lower control arms parallel to the ground. Remember, the lower you go, the the softer the spring effectively gets, so it makes it even easier to bottom out the shock. Most coilovers have a stiff enough spring where anything more than the stock swaybars will be overkill. My experience is that in real world street driving, max grip happens at the softest setting that doesnt allow other issues to come up (so... softer = more grip, until body roll cancels out any addition in grip). It may feel better stiffer, and it may work on a race track with perfect surfaces, but it wont work well on streets where you have to try to maintain traction over bumps and other surface irregularities. </p><p></p><p>I had/am having a maintenance nightmare with my car, but it seems to be the exception rather than the rule. </p><p></p><p>As far as bolt ons, really, any intake will do. Vararam costs the most, and seems like it would do the best job, but I'm sure the difference over cheaper options isnt as huge as they make it out to be. Really, the bottleneck in the intake is the connector between the air filter and the throttle body. </p><p></p><p>Headers, of you plan on keeping it stock displacement, stay with 1 3/4" headers. 2.5" or 3" collector will be a negligible difference (but all these negligible differences might start adding up, lol). Get LGs if you want to go with the flow. I don't think I'd dump that much money on them just for the name, though. They do advertise having the longest collectors if you get their Pro headers. I like Kooks headers, or OBX if you're on a very tight budget. Really, you can't go wrong with any of the more common long tube headers. </p><p></p><p>Cat back, depends on preference. Watch videos. Even then, it'll be totally different in person. I like the sound of the factory ti's once you wake them up a bit with headers and high flow cats. I just dont see the point in spending $800 to replace the catback with something heavier, and with zero performance gain. </p><p></p><p>Heads, you can port your factory ones, but by then, you might as well swing for some aftermarket ones. AFR 205cc or Trickflow 215s are the most you'll want on a stock-cube motor. Anything bigger reduces port velocity too much. Can't help you with choices on valve springs and rocker arms cuz I don't know much about them, but I do know you should start keeping an eye on the springs at around the 50k mile mark, especially if you have stiffer ones in there. </p><p></p><p>Cam, go big or go home. Personal preference. I also would rather have a 480hp N/A motor than a 550hp FI motor. Stock block, you should be able to run 500 rwhp all day. Anything over 550, you're on borrowed time. </p><p></p><p>Not a fan of gears. You'll already be traction limited in 1st and 2nd. </p><p></p><p>Around the 450whp mark, you'll probably need a new clutch, depending on how you drive it. Not sure yet on what's good out there. I'm trying to figure that one out for my car right now. I think I have it narrowed down to either Mcleod or Monster. </p><p></p><p>The reproduction c6 z06 rims weight a ton and will impact every aspect of performance. OEM c6z rims wont fit without flared fenders. </p><p></p><p>Shifter, get rid of the OEM hunk of crap asap. I have the C6z shifter in mine. Only other one I'd consider is the MGW unless you want an arm workout every time. Then again, I live in LA, so it might not matter for you as much. </p><p></p><p>Stock brakes are plenty for even track days with the right pads. Stay away from the chinese rotors. HP+ pads are a good step up from stock, and should offer plenty of bite for any street tire short of a dot-r. If you want bigger brakes for the bling factor, the C6z brakes are good bang for the buck, but they do have their drawbacks (heavy, padlets, etc). They won't clear the factory 17s on the front, though. </p><p></p><p>I think I covered most of the common mods. Let me know if there's anything else.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="carnut101, post: 8579866, member: 30764"] Dont slam the car without coilovers. You will literally be on the bump stops of the shocks. Also, the car starts to act funny once you lower it beyond having the lower control arms parallel to the ground. Remember, the lower you go, the the softer the spring effectively gets, so it makes it even easier to bottom out the shock. Most coilovers have a stiff enough spring where anything more than the stock swaybars will be overkill. My experience is that in real world street driving, max grip happens at the softest setting that doesnt allow other issues to come up (so... softer = more grip, until body roll cancels out any addition in grip). It may feel better stiffer, and it may work on a race track with perfect surfaces, but it wont work well on streets where you have to try to maintain traction over bumps and other surface irregularities. I had/am having a maintenance nightmare with my car, but it seems to be the exception rather than the rule. As far as bolt ons, really, any intake will do. Vararam costs the most, and seems like it would do the best job, but I'm sure the difference over cheaper options isnt as huge as they make it out to be. Really, the bottleneck in the intake is the connector between the air filter and the throttle body. Headers, of you plan on keeping it stock displacement, stay with 1 3/4" headers. 2.5" or 3" collector will be a negligible difference (but all these negligible differences might start adding up, lol). Get LGs if you want to go with the flow. I don't think I'd dump that much money on them just for the name, though. They do advertise having the longest collectors if you get their Pro headers. I like Kooks headers, or OBX if you're on a very tight budget. Really, you can't go wrong with any of the more common long tube headers. Cat back, depends on preference. Watch videos. Even then, it'll be totally different in person. I like the sound of the factory ti's once you wake them up a bit with headers and high flow cats. I just dont see the point in spending $800 to replace the catback with something heavier, and with zero performance gain. Heads, you can port your factory ones, but by then, you might as well swing for some aftermarket ones. AFR 205cc or Trickflow 215s are the most you'll want on a stock-cube motor. Anything bigger reduces port velocity too much. Can't help you with choices on valve springs and rocker arms cuz I don't know much about them, but I do know you should start keeping an eye on the springs at around the 50k mile mark, especially if you have stiffer ones in there. Cam, go big or go home. Personal preference. I also would rather have a 480hp N/A motor than a 550hp FI motor. Stock block, you should be able to run 500 rwhp all day. Anything over 550, you're on borrowed time. Not a fan of gears. You'll already be traction limited in 1st and 2nd. Around the 450whp mark, you'll probably need a new clutch, depending on how you drive it. Not sure yet on what's good out there. I'm trying to figure that one out for my car right now. I think I have it narrowed down to either Mcleod or Monster. The reproduction c6 z06 rims weight a ton and will impact every aspect of performance. OEM c6z rims wont fit without flared fenders. Shifter, get rid of the OEM hunk of crap asap. I have the C6z shifter in mine. Only other one I'd consider is the MGW unless you want an arm workout every time. Then again, I live in LA, so it might not matter for you as much. Stock brakes are plenty for even track days with the right pads. Stay away from the chinese rotors. HP+ pads are a good step up from stock, and should offer plenty of bite for any street tire short of a dot-r. If you want bigger brakes for the bling factor, the C6z brakes are good bang for the buck, but they do have their drawbacks (heavy, padlets, etc). They won't clear the factory 17s on the front, though. I think I covered most of the common mods. Let me know if there's anything else. [/QUOTE]
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