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Cams or not to cams
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<blockquote data-quote="MalcolmV8" data-source="post: 15700317" data-attributes="member: 8854"><p>I've done multiple sets of cams in my car and re-degreed them different ways. Here's what I learned.</p><p></p><p>My initial reasoning was for the sound. I loved that choppy sounding idle. That turned out to be my big downfall while using a blower. I learned very painfully and the hard way that the boost bypass valve needs at least 13 ~ 14 inches of vacuum at idle to avoid drivability issues. Pulling off and driving becomes a headache otherwise, the car surges and jerks as the bypass valve closes with less vacuum. The rotors have to much air in them and it surges into the motor.</p><p></p><p>To get that nasty choppy sound you need overlap which kills vacuum. My car had a badass muscle car sounding idle but only 8" of vacuum at idle. It sucked to drive and I grew to hate the car. After consulting with "experts" I was lead to believe I had a duration issue and purchased more cams.</p><p></p><p>Long story short it had nothing to do with duration and I started degreeing cams myself and figuring it out for myself and a small amount of negative overlap goes along way. My idle vacuum came up to 14 inches of vacuum, the surging and jerking went away and the car drives and pulls off like stock. I have no IAT2 high temps or reversion issues at idle and part throttle cruise. Overall it's really cool. The downside? it doesn't have that crazy choppy idle I wanted in the first place when I set out on my quest for cams. Live and learn.</p><p></p><p>Now I've also tuned quite a few combos over the years and I can tell you without a bypass valve such as a centrifugal blower the overlap is not as big a deal. Also I've found guys with auto cars get away with a lot more because the converter absorbs the surging.</p><p></p><p>BTW expect to spend a good $1200 + for cams, another $400 or so in springs and retainers and then a few hundred more in adjustable cam gears and parts to degree them in correctly. If not doing yourself labor too, lots of it.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="MalcolmV8, post: 15700317, member: 8854"] I've done multiple sets of cams in my car and re-degreed them different ways. Here's what I learned. My initial reasoning was for the sound. I loved that choppy sounding idle. That turned out to be my big downfall while using a blower. I learned very painfully and the hard way that the boost bypass valve needs at least 13 ~ 14 inches of vacuum at idle to avoid drivability issues. Pulling off and driving becomes a headache otherwise, the car surges and jerks as the bypass valve closes with less vacuum. The rotors have to much air in them and it surges into the motor. To get that nasty choppy sound you need overlap which kills vacuum. My car had a badass muscle car sounding idle but only 8" of vacuum at idle. It sucked to drive and I grew to hate the car. After consulting with "experts" I was lead to believe I had a duration issue and purchased more cams. Long story short it had nothing to do with duration and I started degreeing cams myself and figuring it out for myself and a small amount of negative overlap goes along way. My idle vacuum came up to 14 inches of vacuum, the surging and jerking went away and the car drives and pulls off like stock. I have no IAT2 high temps or reversion issues at idle and part throttle cruise. Overall it's really cool. The downside? it doesn't have that crazy choppy idle I wanted in the first place when I set out on my quest for cams. Live and learn. Now I've also tuned quite a few combos over the years and I can tell you without a bypass valve such as a centrifugal blower the overlap is not as big a deal. Also I've found guys with auto cars get away with a lot more because the converter absorbs the surging. BTW expect to spend a good $1200 + for cams, another $400 or so in springs and retainers and then a few hundred more in adjustable cam gears and parts to degree them in correctly. If not doing yourself labor too, lots of it. [/QUOTE]
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