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Check out the glory that is my custom pistons
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<blockquote data-quote="SlowSVT" data-source="post: 14880583" data-attributes="member: 20202"><p>A thick walled piston is great for heat transfer and strength. If the engine is going to see huge boost #'s I would lean toward a heavier (walled) piston. The problem is adding mass to the reciprocation assembly results in higher loading on the rods, wrist pins, bearings and will impose more parasitic loss accelerating and decelerating the pistons as they go "up" & "down". An engine with lighter pistons will rev quicker, higher and should register a few more ponies at the rear wheels as the motor climes the scale. Chances are you won't blow your engine running heavier piston but the bottom end will be more stressed than with lighter slugs I would be more reluctant spinning them for any period of time at high rpm. Bottom end failures in a mod motor are almost "non-existant" anyhow I have never seen one throw a rod but at some point the benefit of the added mass starts to diminish. It's a "give & take" situation, you add beef at the expense of added weight.</p><p></p><p>I bought my CP's through Modmax of all places. Originally I was going to buy Manely's which were at a great price, spec'd out well and were "off-the-shelf". I had second thoughts after ordering the Manley's and decided to get a set of custom piston from either Diamond or CP. Modmax carries just about every major mfg so they were OK with changing the order. The tech at Modmax was very knowledgeable about pistons as he's dealt with so many brands and what was successful and what wasn't. Both the CP's and Diamond had a feature or two that the other lacked and I had some difficulty deciding which set to buy. The tech explained both were very good piston with the nod going to CP for finish. I knew how I wanted the piston spec'd regarding ring location, dome thickness as well as some of the other options CP offers and was explaining to the tech what I was looking for and how they would be used. His recommendation was just to specify the engine config, how the car was to be used and let them build the piston. At one point he stated: <em>"<u>CP takes great pride in their work and it shows! It is dangerous telling people who make pistons for a living how to make pistons</u>!".</em> That made a lot of sense, my response was " I need a blower piston for a 3.700 bore 5.0 Boss block running 16 lbs on pump swill for a street car with a 23cc dish" and the piston pictured above is what they sent me <img src="data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7" class="smilie smilie--sprite smilie--sprite1" alt=":)" title="Smile :)" loading="lazy" data-shortname=":)" /></p><p></p><p>CP does (or didn't) offer any kind of coating what so ever which was fine by me, just pain Jane bare aluminum, no anodizing, no Teflon coating, no ceramic crowns (which you should never do in an FI engine). Bare aluminum skirts will maximize the heat transfer to the wall, anodize or a layer of polymer won't.</p><p></p><p>My engine will be equipped with Oliver rods and PAC springs and should spin comfortably to 8K. I think the pistons in this engine are at a pretty good "happy point" with regard the piston config. No matter how you slice it CP makes a very nice piston but they are expensive. </p><p></p><p>Are there valve relief in the crowns? What are you setting the PWC at?</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="SlowSVT, post: 14880583, member: 20202"] A thick walled piston is great for heat transfer and strength. If the engine is going to see huge boost #'s I would lean toward a heavier (walled) piston. The problem is adding mass to the reciprocation assembly results in higher loading on the rods, wrist pins, bearings and will impose more parasitic loss accelerating and decelerating the pistons as they go "up" & "down". An engine with lighter pistons will rev quicker, higher and should register a few more ponies at the rear wheels as the motor climes the scale. Chances are you won't blow your engine running heavier piston but the bottom end will be more stressed than with lighter slugs I would be more reluctant spinning them for any period of time at high rpm. Bottom end failures in a mod motor are almost "non-existant" anyhow I have never seen one throw a rod but at some point the benefit of the added mass starts to diminish. It's a "give & take" situation, you add beef at the expense of added weight. I bought my CP's through Modmax of all places. Originally I was going to buy Manely's which were at a great price, spec'd out well and were "off-the-shelf". I had second thoughts after ordering the Manley's and decided to get a set of custom piston from either Diamond or CP. Modmax carries just about every major mfg so they were OK with changing the order. The tech at Modmax was very knowledgeable about pistons as he's dealt with so many brands and what was successful and what wasn't. Both the CP's and Diamond had a feature or two that the other lacked and I had some difficulty deciding which set to buy. The tech explained both were very good piston with the nod going to CP for finish. I knew how I wanted the piston spec'd regarding ring location, dome thickness as well as some of the other options CP offers and was explaining to the tech what I was looking for and how they would be used. His recommendation was just to specify the engine config, how the car was to be used and let them build the piston. At one point he stated: [I]"[U]CP takes great pride in their work and it shows! It is dangerous telling people who make pistons for a living how to make pistons[/U]!".[/I] That made a lot of sense, my response was " I need a blower piston for a 3.700 bore 5.0 Boss block running 16 lbs on pump swill for a street car with a 23cc dish" and the piston pictured above is what they sent me :) CP does (or didn't) offer any kind of coating what so ever which was fine by me, just pain Jane bare aluminum, no anodizing, no Teflon coating, no ceramic crowns (which you should never do in an FI engine). Bare aluminum skirts will maximize the heat transfer to the wall, anodize or a layer of polymer won't. My engine will be equipped with Oliver rods and PAC springs and should spin comfortably to 8K. I think the pistons in this engine are at a pretty good "happy point" with regard the piston config. No matter how you slice it CP makes a very nice piston but they are expensive. Are there valve relief in the crowns? What are you setting the PWC at? [/QUOTE]
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