Cobra Cam Specs??

[BenD]

Does anyone know what the Factory Cam Specs are for our cars. Crower has a Stage II P/N 82822-4 with a with an intake and exhaust lift of .479" Is this more than our factory lift?

I'm trying to determine what would be the best replacement for both drag and track events that produce more HP than the factory cams, but not crazy.

 

[AtomHeart]

.392 intake, and .390 exhaust lift.

 

[comp 04]

what about duration? kinda curious also

 

[AtomHeart]

Duration @ .050:

172 lobe (intake)
186 valve (intake)

178 lobe (exhaust)
194 valve (exhaust)

 

[KOTH]

Watching.

 

[stangin]

Originally posted by BenD
Does anyone know what the Factory Cam Specs are for our cars. Crower has a Stage II P/N 82822-4 with a with an intake and exhaust lift of .479" Is this more than our factory lift?

I'm trying to determine what would be the best replacement for both drag and track events that produce more HP than the factory cams, but not crazy.

That is what I am going with, the Crower stage II's. Seems the stage I's are not big enough and the stage III's might be a bit big to pass smog, at least the lumpy idle test.. the III's move the rpm band up as well.. too high for me, I dont want to loose any bottom end torque.

 

[AtomHeart]

Hmm...I have conflicting information.

I also have found factory cam specs saying duration for the '03/'04 cobra is:

intake 232/exhaust 236

 

[ShelbyGuy]

the specs are different between intake cams and exhaust cams. the exhaust cam is the navigator cam. i forget what the intake cam is from.

remember that the snotty cam sound is from overlap. valve timing overlap is when both the intake valve(s) and exhaust valve(s) are open at the same time. the theory is that the exhaust scavenging will help pull the intake charge into the cylinder. however, since our induction is forced, extra overlap isnt what we want. we want that exhaust valve shut so the cylinder fills with air under boost

 

[EatonEggbeater]

Interesting that the lift is so low compared to pushrod motors. I guess with the combustion chamber being all piston on one side, all valve on the other, much lift isn't needed. I see from the Ford book that AtomHeart has the lift correct, the book has no duration posted. The actual lift before the geometric increase that the cam follower gives is 5.54mm or .218"

-edit the follower ratio is 1.8:1-

 

[KosherCobra]

I went with the Crower Stage 1 cams and am very happy with them. The cam card actually showed a higher than advertised exhaust lift.

I .421/ E .439

 

[505BB]

Do the Crower Stage Is give a lopey idle or is that more reserved for Stages II and III?

 

[ShelbyGuy]

there isnt room in the head for high lift cam and a lash adjuster. you run out of room at around .500 if i understand things correctly.

Originally posted by EatonEggbeater
Interesting that the lift is so low compared to pushrod motors. I guess with the combustion chamber being all piston on one side, all valve on the other, much lift isn't needed. I see from the Ford book that AtomHeart has the lift correct, the book has no duration posted. The actual lift before the geometric increase that the cam follower gives is 5.54mm or .218"

-edit the follower ratio is 1.8:1-

 

[EatonEggbeater]

Thanks!

I was also wondering when the stock springs bind.

Or is that part of the .500 total lift limitation...

 

[toofast4u]

From everything I have seen I see no reason to screw with Stage I or II. I am going to be installing the JDM stage III.

 

[predator]

Originally posted by EatonEggbeater
Thanks!

I was also wondering when the stock springs bind.

Or is that part of the .500 total lift limitation...

Take a look at the Crower web site......if I remember correctly you can use stock springs with stage I. For stage III you definately have to use a new set of springs......stage II I don't recall whether you can use stock or have to replace them.

I agree with toofast. I have talked to a couple of installers/tuners and they all say the stage III cams run smooth and give the biggest bang for the buck. Just have to make sure that they are degreed correctly and the tuner does their job.