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The Terminator
Engine/Tuning
Coolant system redesign/OEM style overflow tank elimination
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<blockquote data-quote="SecondhandSnake" data-source="post: 16418888" data-attributes="member: 116684"><p>With what you're proposing, with the fox or SN radiator, you'll still want or need a fill port on the highest point of the system. In that case you're better off from a functionality standpoint to have a pressure cap at the highest point so that it doubles as both a fill port as well as pressure cap, and reduces the amount of coolant for it to purge and recover during heat cycles.</p><p></p><p>For the bypass lines I don't know how I feel about just pulling off the rear cylinder heads without flow mapping done, but that's anyone's guess. I necked down my bypass to 3/4" (while still running the head cooling mod) and it's performed well.</p><p></p><p>Switching the thermostat to the engine out hose is a game changer though. My system deaerates so fast now. Lower hose thermostats are supposed to provide a more stable temperature to the engine, but they often have issues with fill and opening at the right temperature.</p><p></p><p>Now I know I'm standing alone here, but I would strongly reconsider completely deleting the surge tank. There's a big difference in recovery style (no surge tank, like the old foxes with a puke tank) and surge tank systems. The problem with recovery style is that it doesn't maintain pressure as well. You make a hard run, get it hot and it pushes coolant into the recovery bottle to maintain cap pressure. Now as soon as you let out and it starts to cool, it will start to pull vacuum at water pump inlet, and can cavitate. What the surge tank does is maintain a steady pressure- that trapped air gets squeezed and helps maintain pressure on the pump inlet. What I would recommend doing is retaining a surge tank in some fashion, even if it's a universal bottle and/or tucked away somewhere. I'm running a 1qt universal aluminum surge tank on mine where the PS reservoir usually is. You basically fill it like the stock system- fill from the highest point with all caps open, once it gets to the desired level in the surge tank, cap that and fill the rest of the way. You can even go with a sealed surge tank if designed properly. You want to target around 10-20% of system volume as "expansion space" or trapped air in that surge tank. That allows for coolant expansion without puking, but maintains pressure on the pump to prevent cavitation. I say this as someone who designs/tests OEM cooling systems.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="SecondhandSnake, post: 16418888, member: 116684"] With what you're proposing, with the fox or SN radiator, you'll still want or need a fill port on the highest point of the system. In that case you're better off from a functionality standpoint to have a pressure cap at the highest point so that it doubles as both a fill port as well as pressure cap, and reduces the amount of coolant for it to purge and recover during heat cycles. For the bypass lines I don't know how I feel about just pulling off the rear cylinder heads without flow mapping done, but that's anyone's guess. I necked down my bypass to 3/4" (while still running the head cooling mod) and it's performed well. Switching the thermostat to the engine out hose is a game changer though. My system deaerates so fast now. Lower hose thermostats are supposed to provide a more stable temperature to the engine, but they often have issues with fill and opening at the right temperature. Now I know I'm standing alone here, but I would strongly reconsider completely deleting the surge tank. There's a big difference in recovery style (no surge tank, like the old foxes with a puke tank) and surge tank systems. The problem with recovery style is that it doesn't maintain pressure as well. You make a hard run, get it hot and it pushes coolant into the recovery bottle to maintain cap pressure. Now as soon as you let out and it starts to cool, it will start to pull vacuum at water pump inlet, and can cavitate. What the surge tank does is maintain a steady pressure- that trapped air gets squeezed and helps maintain pressure on the pump inlet. What I would recommend doing is retaining a surge tank in some fashion, even if it's a universal bottle and/or tucked away somewhere. I'm running a 1qt universal aluminum surge tank on mine where the PS reservoir usually is. You basically fill it like the stock system- fill from the highest point with all caps open, once it gets to the desired level in the surge tank, cap that and fill the rest of the way. You can even go with a sealed surge tank if designed properly. You want to target around 10-20% of system volume as "expansion space" or trapped air in that surge tank. That allows for coolant expansion without puking, but maintains pressure on the pump to prevent cavitation. I say this as someone who designs/tests OEM cooling systems. [/QUOTE]
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Coolant system redesign/OEM style overflow tank elimination
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