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2011-2014 Mustangs
Engine/Tuning
Coyote Crank Timing Sprocket Failure
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<blockquote data-quote="BootsyCollins" data-source="post: 16070089" data-attributes="member: 193711"><p>Hi All,</p><p></p><p>I haven't seen a lot of information anywhere about the stock coyote timing sprocket, other than MMR's posts about their billet sprocket and how they recommend it for any boosted application. </p><p></p><p>[MEDIA=imgur]a/ssKp9zF[/MEDIA]</p><p></p><p>For a bit of background, I have a 2011 Mustang GT with the 5.0 V8 and the MT82 6 speed manual and 77,000 miles. The only modifications that I've made are welded in Flowmaster 40 mufflers and an MGW short throw shifter. I've also replaced the stock transmission fluid with Royal Purple Synchromesh. They really cleaned up the sloppy shifting of the MT82!</p><p></p><p>Anyway, once the weather turned cold in NC I started getting a CEL, and after pulling the codes saw that the downstream O2 sensors in both banks were throwing catalyst efficiency codes. I ordered new O2 sensors and replaced all 4, but now had another code. There was a P0017 stored in the ECU, and a P0018 pending. Also, at idle the car began making a pretty nasty tick from bank 1. I couldn't wrap my head around what could cause this issue, but I bought the entire timing kit from Ford Performance, including tensions and cam phasers.</p><p></p><p>I started out by pulling out the factory airbox and the associated plumbing.</p><p></p><p></p><p>Then I removed the coolant reservoir tank, the radiator, the water pump, and the alternator.</p><p></p><p>Finally I tried pulling off the harmonic balancer. I had a hell of a time getting the thing to come off. I finally broke down and ordered the Harmonic Balancer Removal Tool from American Muscle. It took the harmonic balancer off without any issues. I found that my seal on the balancer had developed a leak at this point.</p><p></p><p>After taking off the valve covers, I was finally able to remove the front timing cover. As soon as I took it off it was pretty clear what the issue was.</p><p></p><p>The keyway had torn out of the timing sprocket. It was honestly the last thing that I'd expected to see when I opened up the timing cover. Once I had all the chains removed, I was able to inspect the damage to the key and to the crankshaft.</p><p></p><p>At this point I didn't have a replacement key, because I'd never considered that it could possibly be damaged. So I replaced the secondary chains, tensioners, and cam phasers, but had to stop before putting on the new crank sprocket and primary chains. </p><p></p><p>Having access to a metallurgist at work, I took the sprocket and the key in to have him hardness test both components. The key came in at 45 HRC through hardened, and the sprocket was 51 HRC "partially case hardened". I'll ask him for clarification tomorrow on what he means by "partially case hardened". </p><p></p><p>My biggest questions are:</p><p></p><p>What caused this? I know that this is a cheap, powdered metal part, but I'm running a low mileage, stock application. It seems pretty unacceptable that I'm seeing this kind of failure this early.</p><p></p><p>Can I even reuse this crankshaft? I really don't like seeing that kind of fretting across the diameter of it. I ordered some Loctite 660 to try and take up the slop, but I really don't feel very comfortable putting Loctite on a crankshaft. I'm about .002" smaller in diameter versus the undamaged portion.</p><p></p><p>Thanks for your inputs!</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="BootsyCollins, post: 16070089, member: 193711"] Hi All, I haven't seen a lot of information anywhere about the stock coyote timing sprocket, other than MMR's posts about their billet sprocket and how they recommend it for any boosted application. [MEDIA=imgur]a/ssKp9zF[/MEDIA] For a bit of background, I have a 2011 Mustang GT with the 5.0 V8 and the MT82 6 speed manual and 77,000 miles. The only modifications that I've made are welded in Flowmaster 40 mufflers and an MGW short throw shifter. I've also replaced the stock transmission fluid with Royal Purple Synchromesh. They really cleaned up the sloppy shifting of the MT82! Anyway, once the weather turned cold in NC I started getting a CEL, and after pulling the codes saw that the downstream O2 sensors in both banks were throwing catalyst efficiency codes. I ordered new O2 sensors and replaced all 4, but now had another code. There was a P0017 stored in the ECU, and a P0018 pending. Also, at idle the car began making a pretty nasty tick from bank 1. I couldn't wrap my head around what could cause this issue, but I bought the entire timing kit from Ford Performance, including tensions and cam phasers. I started out by pulling out the factory airbox and the associated plumbing. Then I removed the coolant reservoir tank, the radiator, the water pump, and the alternator. Finally I tried pulling off the harmonic balancer. I had a hell of a time getting the thing to come off. I finally broke down and ordered the Harmonic Balancer Removal Tool from American Muscle. It took the harmonic balancer off without any issues. I found that my seal on the balancer had developed a leak at this point. After taking off the valve covers, I was finally able to remove the front timing cover. As soon as I took it off it was pretty clear what the issue was. The keyway had torn out of the timing sprocket. It was honestly the last thing that I'd expected to see when I opened up the timing cover. Once I had all the chains removed, I was able to inspect the damage to the key and to the crankshaft. At this point I didn't have a replacement key, because I'd never considered that it could possibly be damaged. So I replaced the secondary chains, tensioners, and cam phasers, but had to stop before putting on the new crank sprocket and primary chains. Having access to a metallurgist at work, I took the sprocket and the key in to have him hardness test both components. The key came in at 45 HRC through hardened, and the sprocket was 51 HRC "partially case hardened". I'll ask him for clarification tomorrow on what he means by "partially case hardened". My biggest questions are: What caused this? I know that this is a cheap, powdered metal part, but I'm running a low mileage, stock application. It seems pretty unacceptable that I'm seeing this kind of failure this early. Can I even reuse this crankshaft? I really don't like seeing that kind of fretting across the diameter of it. I ordered some Loctite 660 to try and take up the slop, but I really don't feel very comfortable putting Loctite on a crankshaft. I'm about .002" smaller in diameter versus the undamaged portion. Thanks for your inputs! [/QUOTE]
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Coyote Crank Timing Sprocket Failure
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