Damming ther hood.

racebronco2

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What RPM do you use for your shift points? When I first started I was kind of over whelmed and tended to hit the rev limiter. Last time out I was much more conscious and used 6K. I was surprised how much stronger the top end is with an x pipe and 2.5" exhaust.

I assume 160 in 4th - I did not do the math. That is some pretty good torque mine would fall flat on its face with that kind of gearing - LOL!

chr

I don't worry about shift points on track. I would hate to be mid corner and had to shift or slow down because i ran out of rpms. I usually shift before the turn, the tq helps out powering thru the turn. 160 in forth is about 6400rpms. I have the 97 cobra cams so my tq doesn't nearly as fast as with the stock cams. One dyno sheet in which the tuner ran up to 7000rpms i still had about 400ft lbs. At 6000 i am at 520, 6400 i am at 450ft lbs.
 

iismet

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I don't worry about shift points on track. I would hate to be mid corner and had to shift or slow down because i ran out of rpms. I usually shift before the turn, the tq helps out powering thru the turn.

This is how I run also. My question is with respect to the straights (I failed to mention) .


160 in forth is about 6400rpms. I have the 97 cobra cams so my tq doesn't nearly as fast as with the stock cams. One dyno sheet in which the tuner ran up to 7000rpms i still had about 400ft lbs. At 6000 i am at 520, 6400 i am at 450ft lbs.

Damn that is just flat smoking - I think I calculated stock gearing around 133 at that rpm in 4th.

Are you running CO?
 

racebronco2

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This is how I run also. My question is with respect to the straights (I failed to mention) .

On the straights i usually don't have time to look down, i am executing my passes or on occasion I allow faster cars to pass.


Damn that is just flat smoking - I think I calculated stock gearing around 133 at that rpm in 4th.

Are you running CO?

On the faster tracks i would have to shift into 5th which slowed down my acceleration. Now i can stay in 4th.

CO? Coil-overs yes. Agent 47 front suspension.
 

iismet

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FWIW My A/Sedan Fox body would lift (steering would go light) around 155 (157 according to tach) at VIR.
It would float as I made the bend at start/finish and again about the end of the blend lane just before braking going into 1. No hood vents, as they were not legal in A/Sedan then.

Do you run aero on that car?
 

gcassidy

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One of the best things I put on my car was a shift light. Impossible to miss even in my vert with sun on the dash. I fount my stock tach was off, and I had it set 200 below limiter, so I knew I had some room when it lit if needed.
 

iismet

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One of the best things I put on my car was a shift light. Impossible to miss even in my vert with sun on the dash. I fount my stock tach was off, and I had it set 200 below limiter, so I knew I had some room when it lit if needed.

I have on sitting on the bench with some gauges - plan to install next week.

What RPM do you have your light set at?
 

iismet

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On the faster tracks i would have to shift into 5th which slowed down my acceleration. Now i can stay in 4th.

CO? Coil-overs yes. Agent 47 front suspension.

nice - makes my junk look like - well - junk - LOL!

What speeds are considered fast for a "faster track"?
 

99COBRA2881

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At MAM last summer during the morning race it was really bright out and I couldn't see the stock black face tach out of my peripheral vision.

Here's the fix I found. Shift-I

I still need to dial it in better but its got loads of customizable features, at key on it even shows battery voltage after it sweeps through the selected shift light sequence. Which is very useful on a race car with a small odyssey battery like mine has.

028CCE0C-1B99-43CC-8CD8-18136FE92D54-19990-00001092EBA2179A_zpsd5c3e983.jpg


4068A107-BFB9-4203-BC2E-61AF121ED2C1-19990-0000109258CBB452_zps2cd7baae.jpg
 

iismet

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wow - that is nice. I would love to try that. Not sure I am there yet though, I was using the tach on the last outing and only hit the rev limiter once.

Some say I should hear it. As long as it's pulling, I am going. If I go by sound, I don't run it high enough. I am starting to be more aware of the surroundings which includes the tach, so something like this is possible.

x-chr
 

racebronco2

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nice - makes my junk look like - well - junk - LOL!

What speeds are considered fast for a "faster track"?

I have 4 local tracks. One clockwise is almost 110mph, counter clockwise it's 120mph. One is 125mph. The two faster tracks are a little over 140mph and AAA speedway i think the highest i've been there is right at 150mph.
 

iismet

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Some questions

How do you remove the foam bumper support attached to the crash bars? What is a good method of re-attachment for the purposes of on and off ease?

Taped as recommended - perfect.

What kind of materials are you using between the radiator and the OEM plastic shield once the AC condenser has been removed?

I used mastic backed foam window insulation attached to the ABS to close any small openings where the ABS butted against the radiator.

tdsp.jpg


I used 1/8" ABS plastic for the walls. A lot of work to get the shape to extend from the radiator to the bumper cover.

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I am pulling the steering cooler and replacing with a generic. Where is the optimal location relative to the front of the radiator i.e Drivers, Center, Passenger, Top, Center, Bottom?

Do you fix the steering cooler with a gap between it and the radiator or use the radiator to support?

I was unable to install the new cooler in front of the extra duct. The ABS walls used for boxing are right against the OEM duct opening and it just would not fit. I ended up stacking between the HE and the radiator, right behind the HE fan on the drivers side. Fabricated a couple of stanchions out of angled aluminum and slid some slit fuel hose over them for vibration isolation. This is a smaller cooler than stock so there could be trouble here. It was nice to be able to run the lines thru the stock locations.

xhoj.jpg


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I am running JLT cold air. I am thinking of closing that box and running the passenger side duct into it.

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Pin 82 to ground - is this connection switched thru the ignition or can I ground it and the IC pump will run?

I ended up wiring into the OEM IC relay. I used a second relay. I installed a switch in ther console and used power from the lighter.

I ran a hot wire out thru the antenna port and connected that wire to 87a on the second relay.

The OEM relay is not hot until you turn on the key. There is a small red wire used to trigger the OEM relay. I connected pin 85 of the second relay to the red OEM trigger wire.

I connected pin 30 of the second relay to the orange and yellow wire supplying power to the pump.

With the ignition switched off, power runs thru pin 87a of the second relay and fires the fans.

When the key is switched on, the power from the trigger on the OEM relay (small red wire) switches the second relay to pin 87 thus isolating the second relay from the first. (Pin 87 is not connected to anything on the second relay.)

Once the key is switched off the second relay switches back to 87a and the power is fed from the switch inside the car until it is switched off.

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AC delete
Air Bag Delete
Aeroforce gages
Raptor Shift Light

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xlwl.jpg


x-cliff
 
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racebronco2

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You did a great job. One thing about boxing in the bumper cover, speeds over about 140mph will cause the car to become unstable. The air being built up at the bumper cover opening has no where to go at those speeds. You will be pushing a wall of air out of your way.
 

iismet

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You did a great job. One thing about boxing in the bumper cover, speeds over about 140mph will cause the car to become unstable. The air being built up at the bumper cover opening has no where to go at those speeds. You will be pushing a wall of air out of your way.

Thanks - learned it here. On the 140 -

I am not running that fast yet - I hope to get there. At those speeds a splitter at the right height would be beneficial? Push the nose down and force the air around - OR ?

x-chr
 

racebronco2

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Thanks - learned it here. On the 140 -

I am not running that fast yet - I hope to get there. At those speeds a splitter at the right height would be beneficial? Push the nose down and force the air around - OR ?

x-chr

Any time you add down force you need to compromise speed vs cornering. The more downforce you have the lower the speed on the straights will be.

I run at AAA speedway and entering turn 1-2 at 145mph and able to try and keep your speed up downforce is needed.

At Big willow the front straight is 145mph too but there are 2 long sweepers, one is 88mph and the other is 120mph, downforce is needed.

Running at the streets of willow it's not as important since speeds are 107 and 120mph depending on CC or CCW. The sweepers after the long straights are under 50mph. Downforce is really not needed that much.

If you plan on running a splitter you will need to run supports thru your bumper cover attached to your bumper support. Not many people want to cut holes in the bumper cover.
 

iismet

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I will not need it at Portland with no more HP than I have I will not hit those speeds. Once I get better at it, I plan to venture out some where maybe I could hit those higher speeds. I do plan to support the splitter thru the cover.

chr
 

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