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SVTPerformance's Chain of Restaurants
Time Slip Bar
DD/drag racing/auto cross rear suspension upgrade
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<blockquote data-quote="blacksheep-1" data-source="post: 13755155" data-attributes="member: 33936"><p>I think it is good advice to run something other than the UPR K member for what you are doing, I happen to be a fan of UPR but only for drag racing, and have actually had good customer service from them. In any case, good move on the MM (or similar design, other than Granatelli). With regards to the rear of the car, it is a design fiasco, the "triangulated 4 link" is designed to both center the diff and locate it front to rear. As the car sits, from the factory, the rear suspension is not in bind, the instant you change ride height the rear is in bind, because both of the upper bars are fighting each other. You now have the upper links fighting each other and the only way you can make this worse is to add stiffer upper control arms, or a panhard bar. You will now have both upper links searching for their arc along with the PHB which is competing for it's own arc. You have a couple of choices, go with urethane, or other type of lower control arms and use the skankiest, most worn out uppers that you can find. This will still allow the uppers to center the diff, but do it in a more compliant manner. Having tracked and autocrossed these cars in the past (and present) this was the setup that worked the best with the triangulated 4 link. Even with that, the car would attempt to "find center" coming out of a corner and this usually led to a condition known as "snap oversteer" as the diff centered itself. Unless you are regulated by rules (as I was) I'd dump the "triangulated 4 link" for something better. </p><p> You have several options..</p><p>You can install a PHB then remove one of the upper control arms, (known as a redneck 3 link) this actually works well, until you rip the single arm out of the floor pan.</p><p>You can find the kit that changed the upper links to a single link and install the PHB, I don't know if those kits are still around anymore, but you could fab one up.</p><p>You can install an "truck arm" (called a "torque arm" by the newbs) style suspension which is probably the most effective way to go</p><p>Install a Watts link</p><p>Find an IRS, but it adds weight and has it's own problems.</p><p></p><p>Again DO NOT install a PHB with the stock 4 link, or for that matter install fabricated (stiff) upper control arms</p><p></p><p>As for the front, the big issue is once you lower the car, you also lower the roll center, while this is not an entirely bad idea, lowering it underneath the pavement is not such a good idea. To fix this (on the stock k member) is to use the higher (steeda 2x style) lower ball joints and the bump steer kit, most fabbed k -members have a method of dialing this problem out during the install.</p><p></p><p></p><p>Let me add some more to this the drag cars that I've done..that are required to use a "stock type" rear suspension use one of these.. <a href="http://www.uprproducts.com/mustang-chrome-moly-double-anti-roll-bar-kit.html" target="_blank">http://www.uprproducts.com/mustang-chrome-moly-double-anti-roll-bar-kit.html</a> and it has solved all of the fox-4 problems, trouble is, there is nothing there that will let a car handle at an autocross, in fact, it will pretty much destroy the street handling of the car.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="blacksheep-1, post: 13755155, member: 33936"] I think it is good advice to run something other than the UPR K member for what you are doing, I happen to be a fan of UPR but only for drag racing, and have actually had good customer service from them. In any case, good move on the MM (or similar design, other than Granatelli). With regards to the rear of the car, it is a design fiasco, the "triangulated 4 link" is designed to both center the diff and locate it front to rear. As the car sits, from the factory, the rear suspension is not in bind, the instant you change ride height the rear is in bind, because both of the upper bars are fighting each other. You now have the upper links fighting each other and the only way you can make this worse is to add stiffer upper control arms, or a panhard bar. You will now have both upper links searching for their arc along with the PHB which is competing for it's own arc. You have a couple of choices, go with urethane, or other type of lower control arms and use the skankiest, most worn out uppers that you can find. This will still allow the uppers to center the diff, but do it in a more compliant manner. Having tracked and autocrossed these cars in the past (and present) this was the setup that worked the best with the triangulated 4 link. Even with that, the car would attempt to "find center" coming out of a corner and this usually led to a condition known as "snap oversteer" as the diff centered itself. Unless you are regulated by rules (as I was) I'd dump the "triangulated 4 link" for something better. You have several options.. You can install a PHB then remove one of the upper control arms, (known as a redneck 3 link) this actually works well, until you rip the single arm out of the floor pan. You can find the kit that changed the upper links to a single link and install the PHB, I don't know if those kits are still around anymore, but you could fab one up. You can install an "truck arm" (called a "torque arm" by the newbs) style suspension which is probably the most effective way to go Install a Watts link Find an IRS, but it adds weight and has it's own problems. Again DO NOT install a PHB with the stock 4 link, or for that matter install fabricated (stiff) upper control arms As for the front, the big issue is once you lower the car, you also lower the roll center, while this is not an entirely bad idea, lowering it underneath the pavement is not such a good idea. To fix this (on the stock k member) is to use the higher (steeda 2x style) lower ball joints and the bump steer kit, most fabbed k -members have a method of dialing this problem out during the install. Let me add some more to this the drag cars that I've done..that are required to use a "stock type" rear suspension use one of these.. [url]http://www.uprproducts.com/mustang-chrome-moly-double-anti-roll-bar-kit.html[/url] and it has solved all of the fox-4 problems, trouble is, there is nothing there that will let a car handle at an autocross, in fact, it will pretty much destroy the street handling of the car. [/QUOTE]
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DD/drag racing/auto cross rear suspension upgrade
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