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SVTPerformance's Chain of Restaurants
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Engine is out of the TTSaleen..............
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<blockquote data-quote="Ryan2KRedL" data-source="post: 16502646" data-attributes="member: 346"><p>Since you asked.........</p><p>While waiting for my 4R70W to be rebuilt about a year and a half ago, I got tired of waiting and looked into an alternative transmission.</p><p>Enter the 6R80.</p><p>Knowing my car makes over 1200rwhp, I researched built 6R80 combos and found Brett Lasala in FL.</p><p>I contacted him and he built me on of his famous billet planetary 6R80 combos with a Circle D convertor (to his specs).</p><p>Being a 1998 model, I had to purchase a stand-alone controller and the only option I found was US Shift Quick6 unit.</p><p>I had a custom driveshaft made from the Driveshaft Shop with the correct ends to fit the 6R80 and my 8.8 rear (with IRS flange).</p><p></p><p>Initially I had a base tune file from US Shift that I used but it didn't seem to work very well.</p><p>I contacted 2V Terror (Jeremy Rousseau) and he built me a custom tune file similar to what he runs in his 8 sec 2 valve car.</p><p>With this tune, the car performed better but (after months of testing), I found the Quick6 wasn't shifting at the rpm I wanted.</p><p>Example - I had it set to 6500rpm, but it clearly went higher causing it to touch my rev limiter. </p><p>I checked and confirmed all my tach signals were fine (can see it in the interface of the Quick6 software), but the unit just never shifted where I commanded it to.</p><p></p><p>I then put it on the Dyno at Fastlane and Caleb helped me find the issue (over-revving) which I thought for months was misfire due to ignition problems or weak valvesprings.</p><p>The work around, was to command the Quick6 to shift earlier than I wanted and "fool it" into shifting near the rpm I actually wanted.</p><p>This helped and at the track I got my best ET to date (5.80 in 1/8th).</p><p>Frustration was had for months prior to this when everyone told me it was something else or to "check my wiring".</p><p></p><p>Unfortunately when the Quick6 work-around was done, I actually broke the 6R80 during the 5.80 pass.</p><p>I lock the convertor from 2nd gear thru 5th gear at wide open throttle.</p><p>The car was pulling great down the track at 25# boost (about 1150rwhp), but the second I hit my scramble boost button (added 5#) it instantly broke the billet intermediate shaft in the 6R80.</p><p></p><p>Frustrated with the whole situation, I pulled the 6R80 out, replaced the intermediate shaft with another billet unit and put into the Mach1.</p><p>Using the same Quick6 programming, I simply changed the rear gear ratio (3.73 in Mach1) and tire diameter and drove it.</p><p>The transmission was shifting fine, but I haven't been much wide-open throttle as I am breaking-in the new engine (putting 500 miles on it).</p><p></p><p>The problem now is the Circle D convertor. It's a 5 disc lock-up unit designed to handle big horsepower. However it drags the car down when put into gear and cuts the Mach1 off. I had to raise the idle to 1250rpm just to keep the car idled high enough in gear to not shut off.</p><p>The TTSaleen did it too, but not as drastic I attribute to the stockish cams and larger cubic inch (331 vs. 281).</p><p>I called Circle D and they said the 5 disc unit could do this and to fix it would be to send it back and have it converted to a 3 disc unit (between $300-$600).</p><p></p><p>Deciding I've had enough of dealing with this, I bought a Magnum T-56 from D+D Performance and will be putting it into the Mach1 this weekend.</p><p></p><p>Overall -</p><p>I think the 6R80 would work fantastic in a Coyote harness/computer equipped car. </p><p>I just never thought the Quick6 worked to my satisfaction. For install and drive convenience, it is a good unit.</p><p>But for racing and high horsepower cars, I don't think it is the best choice (at least not for me).</p><p></p><p>The Circle D convertor 5 disc can handle a lot of power, to the point it helped break my billet intermediate shaft in the 6R.</p><p>But having to send it back and pay money to make it a cheaper version (3 disc) and hope it doesn't drag the car's idle down is not something I was happy to do.</p><p></p><p>So hopefully that gives you a better idea of the 6R80 and my experience using it with the Quick6 controller.</p><p></p><p>PROS - </p><p>Multi-gears helped car stay in rpm range better and accelerate quicker.</p><p>Put in Drive and go was a nice touch compared to my manual-valve body 4R70 it replaced.</p><p></p><p>CONS -</p><p>Could not "bump-in" while on the transbrake. If you bumped in, the car would take off while you still were holding the transbrake.</p><p>Quick6 never shifted at proper commanded RPM and caused me months of frustration of banging rev-limiter and thinking it was ignition issue.</p><p>Broke billet intermediate shaft at approximately 1,250rwhp in my 3800 pound car during 1/8th mile race locking up convertor in 2nd - 5th gear.</p><p>5 disc convertor dragged engine idle down, so much that it would cut car off at idle or a stoplight. Work around was to raise idle (too high) and still have to manipulate brake pedal and throttle to keep running (in Mach1 with lumpy cams).</p><p></p><p>Ryan</p><p></p><p>Videos to show you the overall experience -</p><p></p><p>[MEDIA=youtube]fvpq0LBX_GM[/MEDIA]</p><p></p><p>[MEDIA=youtube]96pKe1H_tEQ[/MEDIA]</p><p></p><p>[MEDIA=youtube]NYyI6OxRIA4[/MEDIA]</p><p></p><p>[MEDIA=youtube]ouYm1YkPoHo[/MEDIA]</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Ryan2KRedL, post: 16502646, member: 346"] Since you asked......... While waiting for my 4R70W to be rebuilt about a year and a half ago, I got tired of waiting and looked into an alternative transmission. Enter the 6R80. Knowing my car makes over 1200rwhp, I researched built 6R80 combos and found Brett Lasala in FL. I contacted him and he built me on of his famous billet planetary 6R80 combos with a Circle D convertor (to his specs). Being a 1998 model, I had to purchase a stand-alone controller and the only option I found was US Shift Quick6 unit. I had a custom driveshaft made from the Driveshaft Shop with the correct ends to fit the 6R80 and my 8.8 rear (with IRS flange). Initially I had a base tune file from US Shift that I used but it didn't seem to work very well. I contacted 2V Terror (Jeremy Rousseau) and he built me a custom tune file similar to what he runs in his 8 sec 2 valve car. With this tune, the car performed better but (after months of testing), I found the Quick6 wasn't shifting at the rpm I wanted. Example - I had it set to 6500rpm, but it clearly went higher causing it to touch my rev limiter. I checked and confirmed all my tach signals were fine (can see it in the interface of the Quick6 software), but the unit just never shifted where I commanded it to. I then put it on the Dyno at Fastlane and Caleb helped me find the issue (over-revving) which I thought for months was misfire due to ignition problems or weak valvesprings. The work around, was to command the Quick6 to shift earlier than I wanted and "fool it" into shifting near the rpm I actually wanted. This helped and at the track I got my best ET to date (5.80 in 1/8th). Frustration was had for months prior to this when everyone told me it was something else or to "check my wiring". Unfortunately when the Quick6 work-around was done, I actually broke the 6R80 during the 5.80 pass. I lock the convertor from 2nd gear thru 5th gear at wide open throttle. The car was pulling great down the track at 25# boost (about 1150rwhp), but the second I hit my scramble boost button (added 5#) it instantly broke the billet intermediate shaft in the 6R80. Frustrated with the whole situation, I pulled the 6R80 out, replaced the intermediate shaft with another billet unit and put into the Mach1. Using the same Quick6 programming, I simply changed the rear gear ratio (3.73 in Mach1) and tire diameter and drove it. The transmission was shifting fine, but I haven't been much wide-open throttle as I am breaking-in the new engine (putting 500 miles on it). The problem now is the Circle D convertor. It's a 5 disc lock-up unit designed to handle big horsepower. However it drags the car down when put into gear and cuts the Mach1 off. I had to raise the idle to 1250rpm just to keep the car idled high enough in gear to not shut off. The TTSaleen did it too, but not as drastic I attribute to the stockish cams and larger cubic inch (331 vs. 281). I called Circle D and they said the 5 disc unit could do this and to fix it would be to send it back and have it converted to a 3 disc unit (between $300-$600). Deciding I've had enough of dealing with this, I bought a Magnum T-56 from D+D Performance and will be putting it into the Mach1 this weekend. Overall - I think the 6R80 would work fantastic in a Coyote harness/computer equipped car. I just never thought the Quick6 worked to my satisfaction. For install and drive convenience, it is a good unit. But for racing and high horsepower cars, I don't think it is the best choice (at least not for me). The Circle D convertor 5 disc can handle a lot of power, to the point it helped break my billet intermediate shaft in the 6R. But having to send it back and pay money to make it a cheaper version (3 disc) and hope it doesn't drag the car's idle down is not something I was happy to do. So hopefully that gives you a better idea of the 6R80 and my experience using it with the Quick6 controller. PROS - Multi-gears helped car stay in rpm range better and accelerate quicker. Put in Drive and go was a nice touch compared to my manual-valve body 4R70 it replaced. CONS - Could not "bump-in" while on the transbrake. If you bumped in, the car would take off while you still were holding the transbrake. Quick6 never shifted at proper commanded RPM and caused me months of frustration of banging rev-limiter and thinking it was ignition issue. Broke billet intermediate shaft at approximately 1,250rwhp in my 3800 pound car during 1/8th mile race locking up convertor in 2nd - 5th gear. 5 disc convertor dragged engine idle down, so much that it would cut car off at idle or a stoplight. Work around was to raise idle (too high) and still have to manipulate brake pedal and throttle to keep running (in Mach1 with lumpy cams). Ryan Videos to show you the overall experience - [MEDIA=youtube]fvpq0LBX_GM[/MEDIA] [MEDIA=youtube]96pKe1H_tEQ[/MEDIA] [MEDIA=youtube]NYyI6OxRIA4[/MEDIA] [MEDIA=youtube]ouYm1YkPoHo[/MEDIA] [/QUOTE]
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Engine is out of the TTSaleen..............
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