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SVT Shelby GT500
Finally done with my Alcoa project!! 10's up front, 12's out back..............
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<blockquote data-quote="Robert M" data-source="post: 10698341" data-attributes="member: 9628"><p><strong>Thank you to ALL for the positive feedback!!</strong></p><p></p><p>This started out as a regular production 725 Super Snake with the 20x9 and 20x10 Alcoa's with 255/35 front and 275/35 rear Pirelli P Zero's.</p><p></p><p>First obvious points of interest, downsizing to 275/35's on the rear while adding 225hp to the car, and then a narrower 9" wheel on the front vs. the 9.5" that was factory Ford installed on this car to begin with........</p><p></p><p>One day while leaving a car show, my 9 year old daughter was playing her Nintendo DS while sitting in the front passenger seat and "Daddy" wanted to very mildly sprint the car in second gear from approx. a 35mph roll, you know, just to hear the KB, well, the car broke loose and started to the right, I backed out of it and it straightened out, my daughter said, "What was that, it scared me!". Daddy said, "That scared me too, we won't be doing that again". Not that it scared me, but my daughter was in the car and it broke loose much quicker than I expected for such a low speed/dry street environment. From this point on, the tire project was the TOP priority, and the 3.6LC upgrade, cooling system and H/E upgrade would be side lined while the tire/wheel project moved to the top of the list.</p><p></p><p>I had followed the Team Shelby Super Snake forum asking questions and reading responses, it seemed that most were doing the 11.75" - 12" with their rear Alcoa's and 315 or 335 rear tires. I ask multiple times, "Has anyone moved their 10's to the front for fitment purposes?", no replies.</p><p></p><p>I chose to do the 12's and the 335/30 Michelin Pilot Sport PS2's for the rear and 275/35 PS2's for the front 9" Alcoa's. </p><p></p><p>^^^^This set-up required removal of the rear brake ducts that were part of the original Super Snake install and then the shock dust boot on the rear Eibachs was either going to have to be trimmed or removed for 335 clearance, I chose to remove the dust boots. </p><p></p><p>The boots removed...........</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]187657[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>The metal spacer removed from the shock boot re-installed on the shaft of the shock.............</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]187658[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>After extending the axle on one side and compressing it on the other I had slight contact with the inner fender well area. I added 1/8" spacers on both sides and the 335/30 Michelin Pilot Sport PS2's are on, driven approx. 40 miles and no issues.</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]187659[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>^^^^^Shown above, the 335/30 PS2's are on the rear 12's (with 1/8" spacers) and the 275/35 PS2's on the front 9" Alcoa's. No problem, all is well..............but I kept thinking...............9" Alcoa's now, 9.5" SVT wheels originally?? Is there another option? to also upgrade the front through all of this?? :shrug:</p><p></p><p></p><p>There was nothing the matter with the Michelin Pilot Sport PS2's, the 335/30's were a little meatier looking than I really wanted but the 275/35 PS2's fit nicely on the front as shown above. </p><p></p><p>Since my original 10" Alcoa's w/Pirelli P Zero's were now off of the car, I took the 9's with the 275/35 PS2's off and checked for the 10" fit. they appeared to be just right with clearance between the strut and tire, tuned lock to lock, rolled the car, no issues. I decided to spec out the Dunlop Sport Maxx GT's. The 325/30's were slightly narrower than the 335/30 Michelin's and the Dunlop's were also the same exact 27.7" tall like the Shelby installed rear 275's vs. the 335/30 28" tall. I also realized that the 275/35 Dunlop's spec'ed wider than the 275/35 PS2's, so there may be a fit on a 10 for the front. <<They did fit nicely.</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]187660[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>As the car now sits, 275/35 and 325/30 Dunlop Sport Maxx GT's, no spacers front or rear.</p><p></p><p></p><p>The question that most are asking.............why all of the concern about cutting the welded-on bumpstop brackets off of the car, tire/rim clearance issues, etc?</p><p></p><p>Well these issues are still here on my car and the question is, what driving circumstances do you encounter? My 12" Alcoa's do overlap the protruding portion of the bumpstop bracket and I believe any Alcoa 11.5" or wider will contact this bracket. </p><p></p><p>Shown below is the amount that my axle will have to drop for contact. If you drive your car and your axle drops this far, there is going to be contact. </p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]187661[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>My drive way is a 45 degree turn-up into situation, I have no contact entering or exiting. </p><p></p><p></p><p>So, that is the story with the Alcoa 10's up front and the 12's out back, and my preference of the Dunlop look vs. the Michelin look.</p><p></p><p></p><p></p><p>R</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Robert M, post: 10698341, member: 9628"] [b]Thank you to ALL for the positive feedback!![/b] This started out as a regular production 725 Super Snake with the 20x9 and 20x10 Alcoa's with 255/35 front and 275/35 rear Pirelli P Zero's. First obvious points of interest, downsizing to 275/35's on the rear while adding 225hp to the car, and then a narrower 9" wheel on the front vs. the 9.5" that was factory Ford installed on this car to begin with........ One day while leaving a car show, my 9 year old daughter was playing her Nintendo DS while sitting in the front passenger seat and "Daddy" wanted to very mildly sprint the car in second gear from approx. a 35mph roll, you know, just to hear the KB, well, the car broke loose and started to the right, I backed out of it and it straightened out, my daughter said, "What was that, it scared me!". Daddy said, "That scared me too, we won't be doing that again". Not that it scared me, but my daughter was in the car and it broke loose much quicker than I expected for such a low speed/dry street environment. From this point on, the tire project was the TOP priority, and the 3.6LC upgrade, cooling system and H/E upgrade would be side lined while the tire/wheel project moved to the top of the list. I had followed the Team Shelby Super Snake forum asking questions and reading responses, it seemed that most were doing the 11.75" - 12" with their rear Alcoa's and 315 or 335 rear tires. I ask multiple times, "Has anyone moved their 10's to the front for fitment purposes?", no replies. I chose to do the 12's and the 335/30 Michelin Pilot Sport PS2's for the rear and 275/35 PS2's for the front 9" Alcoa's. ^^^^This set-up required removal of the rear brake ducts that were part of the original Super Snake install and then the shock dust boot on the rear Eibachs was either going to have to be trimmed or removed for 335 clearance, I chose to remove the dust boots. The boots removed........... [ATTACH=full]187657[/ATTACH] The metal spacer removed from the shock boot re-installed on the shaft of the shock............. [ATTACH=full]187658[/ATTACH] After extending the axle on one side and compressing it on the other I had slight contact with the inner fender well area. I added 1/8" spacers on both sides and the 335/30 Michelin Pilot Sport PS2's are on, driven approx. 40 miles and no issues. [ATTACH=full]187659[/ATTACH] ^^^^^Shown above, the 335/30 PS2's are on the rear 12's (with 1/8" spacers) and the 275/35 PS2's on the front 9" Alcoa's. No problem, all is well..............but I kept thinking...............9" Alcoa's now, 9.5" SVT wheels originally?? Is there another option? to also upgrade the front through all of this?? :shrug: There was nothing the matter with the Michelin Pilot Sport PS2's, the 335/30's were a little meatier looking than I really wanted but the 275/35 PS2's fit nicely on the front as shown above. Since my original 10" Alcoa's w/Pirelli P Zero's were now off of the car, I took the 9's with the 275/35 PS2's off and checked for the 10" fit. they appeared to be just right with clearance between the strut and tire, tuned lock to lock, rolled the car, no issues. I decided to spec out the Dunlop Sport Maxx GT's. The 325/30's were slightly narrower than the 335/30 Michelin's and the Dunlop's were also the same exact 27.7" tall like the Shelby installed rear 275's vs. the 335/30 28" tall. I also realized that the 275/35 Dunlop's spec'ed wider than the 275/35 PS2's, so there may be a fit on a 10 for the front. <<They did fit nicely. [ATTACH=full]187660[/ATTACH] As the car now sits, 275/35 and 325/30 Dunlop Sport Maxx GT's, no spacers front or rear. The question that most are asking.............why all of the concern about cutting the welded-on bumpstop brackets off of the car, tire/rim clearance issues, etc? Well these issues are still here on my car and the question is, what driving circumstances do you encounter? My 12" Alcoa's do overlap the protruding portion of the bumpstop bracket and I believe any Alcoa 11.5" or wider will contact this bracket. Shown below is the amount that my axle will have to drop for contact. If you drive your car and your axle drops this far, there is going to be contact. [ATTACH=full]187661[/ATTACH] My drive way is a 45 degree turn-up into situation, I have no contact entering or exiting. So, that is the story with the Alcoa 10's up front and the 12's out back, and my preference of the Dunlop look vs. the Michelin look. R [/QUOTE]
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Finally done with my Alcoa project!! 10's up front, 12's out back..............
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