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2011-2014 Mustang Talk
fishpick's 2012 Coyote Vert Build Thread (Base GT Convertible)
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<blockquote data-quote="fishpick" data-source="post: 15560372" data-attributes="member: 182347"><p>[ATTACH=full]85939[/ATTACH]</p><p>Yesterday began the build... well, the "go faster" part of the build at least. Pretty sure this pic was me heading to the trunk to disconnect the fuel pump.</p><p>Since the 2.9 front feed Whipple install has been covered on Coyote engine many times, I thought I'd highlight some of the things I feel like were either "skipped" or "over simplified" as I work my way through the install. And since I'm doing the oil pump gear upgrades at the same time - I'll try to interweave the two as well.</p><p>I will say going into this there were / are a few particular steps that are concerning in my mind. They were / are bumper cover removal, harmonic balancer removal, front cover crank gasket replacement, the "5 minute window" for securing the front cover after slimeacone application and the dreaded oil pickup tube bolt.</p><p>[ATTACH]85934[/ATTACH]</p><p>As you can see it got the bumper cover off - but the Whipple instructions about 4 bolts in the wheel well are wrong... I ended up finding a video on YouTube that showed the actual "pull out and up" action to release the clips that hold the nose on... and promptly broke one of the 3 clips on EACH side... different clips tho... So there's another $70 in parts and shipping on the way from Tasca. When people say "removing their bumper is easy" - it is - if you are one of those guys who enjoys body, trim, interior work... I'm one of those guys that breaks every god damn plastic clip I meet - because they hate me.</p><p>Part of my build is also replacing the stock radiator with a FRPP one and a GT500 fan to move a bit more air.</p><p>[ATTACH]85940[/ATTACH]</p><p>I didn't realize there was so much "extra" stuff up here - condenser for the AC and the transmission cooler - all wedged in before the radiator itself. So with the radiator out these poor guys are relegated to zip ties to keep them in place for the ret of the job. Removal of the radiator is pretty easy with the exception of the squeeze pulling it out. Ford put this big wide feet at the base in the plastic surround (the racing one does not have that) and they come alive and grab onto everything they can on the way out.</p><p>[ATTACH]85941[/ATTACH]</p><p>Next is pulling the battery and the valve covers...</p><p>[ATTACH]85942[/ATTACH]</p><p>Few things here - the plugs for the coli packs - mother of god are they hard to release... car has 40K and this is likely the first time off... have fun there... broke a couple of the small plastic clips inside the plugs getting them off - there are 2 teeth that engage the coil pack - I broke 1 of the 2 several times... Cool.</p><p>Coil packs come right out... spark plugs... not so much. Clearly Ford does not believe in anti-seize... WOW... Have fun here... These were so bad I have now decided every new car I by going forward will have me pulling plugs on day 1 and applying anti-seize... WTF Ford - come on!</p><p>Here's a pretty common thing for the process so far... "Um - the directions say X but that's not really that simple"... like the alternator... it really is just held on by a bolt and a nut/stud... But it's on so tight I needed penetrating oil to reduce the friction if enough for it to move... if you haven't taken a Coyote alternator off before - you don't know this, resort to a service manual, and spend time doing that...</p><p>[ATTACH]85943[/ATTACH]</p><p>With progress being made - I am laying out all the parts in the orientation of how they came off so as to not make a mistake putting them back on. I'm also setting piles of nuts / bolts / fasteners together on a large piece of cardboard and labeling WHAT and WHERE they go... this should help prevent missing a fastener later at reassembly.</p><p>[ATTACH]85944[/ATTACH]</p><p>OK - A/C belt cut... water pump out... other things done... Time to pull the balancer. And - yes... the kit I bought from JEGS after asking them if it worked for a 2012 Mustang and getting an affirmative... does not work... There are no threaded holes in the balancer... MUST USE a jaw type... cool... Advanced Auto Parts here I come...</p><p>[ATTACH]85946[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]85945[/ATTACH]</p><p>After much screwing around because the provided guide rod was way too short - I got it off... may never get the damn thing back on... but it's off now...</p><p>So on to pulling the front cover... First step is to remove 2 bolts and 2 nuts / studs from under the car that come up from the oil pan to front cover. Nobody ever talks bout these - but they are not easy to get. As a matter of fact between a couple of bots on the driver side valve cover near the break booster and these - you CAN NOT do this job without a u-joint / flexible driver for your sockets. Period. I have some - so I was OK - but these 4 are not easy - and they make me even more concerned with the "5 minutes" to get the cover on when closing things up... I don't see even one of these going in in the 5 minute window - much less all 4! Ohh well - will see when I get there.</p><p>Anyhow - worked about 7 hours yesterday and I'm at the "ready to pull the front cover" stage...</p><p>[ATTACH]85947[/ATTACH]</p><p>I have 13 bolts / a couple of nut/studs between me and the timing setup... and the dreaded bolt on the oil pickup...</p><p>Given the snails pace this has gone so far - I'm basically setting the bar at getting the OPG done and the front back on today. If I get the valve covers on too - great - but in general I'm finding things more more slowly than I had hoped!</p><p>I'm enjoying the process since I'm not in a hurry - and it's totally worth doing yourself to get to know your car better... (let's see how I feel when I'm done). I know pulling the radiator set me back some - but I also hope it will let me make up some time in the next stage as there is a ton of space to work in there now. OF course - after a full day of wrenching yesterday - my lower back is "stiff" to say the least! I am getting anxious too - I'm ready to start doing - not undoing!</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="fishpick, post: 15560372, member: 182347"] [ATTACH=full]85939[/ATTACH] Yesterday began the build... well, the "go faster" part of the build at least. Pretty sure this pic was me heading to the trunk to disconnect the fuel pump. Since the 2.9 front feed Whipple install has been covered on Coyote engine many times, I thought I'd highlight some of the things I feel like were either "skipped" or "over simplified" as I work my way through the install. And since I'm doing the oil pump gear upgrades at the same time - I'll try to interweave the two as well. I will say going into this there were / are a few particular steps that are concerning in my mind. They were / are bumper cover removal, harmonic balancer removal, front cover crank gasket replacement, the "5 minute window" for securing the front cover after slimeacone application and the dreaded oil pickup tube bolt. [ATTACH]85934[/ATTACH] As you can see it got the bumper cover off - but the Whipple instructions about 4 bolts in the wheel well are wrong... I ended up finding a video on YouTube that showed the actual "pull out and up" action to release the clips that hold the nose on... and promptly broke one of the 3 clips on EACH side... different clips tho... So there's another $70 in parts and shipping on the way from Tasca. When people say "removing their bumper is easy" - it is - if you are one of those guys who enjoys body, trim, interior work... I'm one of those guys that breaks every god damn plastic clip I meet - because they hate me. Part of my build is also replacing the stock radiator with a FRPP one and a GT500 fan to move a bit more air. [ATTACH]85940[/ATTACH] I didn't realize there was so much "extra" stuff up here - condenser for the AC and the transmission cooler - all wedged in before the radiator itself. So with the radiator out these poor guys are relegated to zip ties to keep them in place for the ret of the job. Removal of the radiator is pretty easy with the exception of the squeeze pulling it out. Ford put this big wide feet at the base in the plastic surround (the racing one does not have that) and they come alive and grab onto everything they can on the way out. [ATTACH]85941[/ATTACH] Next is pulling the battery and the valve covers... [ATTACH]85942[/ATTACH] Few things here - the plugs for the coli packs - mother of god are they hard to release... car has 40K and this is likely the first time off... have fun there... broke a couple of the small plastic clips inside the plugs getting them off - there are 2 teeth that engage the coil pack - I broke 1 of the 2 several times... Cool. Coil packs come right out... spark plugs... not so much. Clearly Ford does not believe in anti-seize... WOW... Have fun here... These were so bad I have now decided every new car I by going forward will have me pulling plugs on day 1 and applying anti-seize... WTF Ford - come on! Here's a pretty common thing for the process so far... "Um - the directions say X but that's not really that simple"... like the alternator... it really is just held on by a bolt and a nut/stud... But it's on so tight I needed penetrating oil to reduce the friction if enough for it to move... if you haven't taken a Coyote alternator off before - you don't know this, resort to a service manual, and spend time doing that... [ATTACH]85943[/ATTACH] With progress being made - I am laying out all the parts in the orientation of how they came off so as to not make a mistake putting them back on. I'm also setting piles of nuts / bolts / fasteners together on a large piece of cardboard and labeling WHAT and WHERE they go... this should help prevent missing a fastener later at reassembly. [ATTACH]85944[/ATTACH] OK - A/C belt cut... water pump out... other things done... Time to pull the balancer. And - yes... the kit I bought from JEGS after asking them if it worked for a 2012 Mustang and getting an affirmative... does not work... There are no threaded holes in the balancer... MUST USE a jaw type... cool... Advanced Auto Parts here I come... [ATTACH]85946[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]85945[/ATTACH] After much screwing around because the provided guide rod was way too short - I got it off... may never get the damn thing back on... but it's off now... So on to pulling the front cover... First step is to remove 2 bolts and 2 nuts / studs from under the car that come up from the oil pan to front cover. Nobody ever talks bout these - but they are not easy to get. As a matter of fact between a couple of bots on the driver side valve cover near the break booster and these - you CAN NOT do this job without a u-joint / flexible driver for your sockets. Period. I have some - so I was OK - but these 4 are not easy - and they make me even more concerned with the "5 minutes" to get the cover on when closing things up... I don't see even one of these going in in the 5 minute window - much less all 4! Ohh well - will see when I get there. Anyhow - worked about 7 hours yesterday and I'm at the "ready to pull the front cover" stage... [ATTACH]85947[/ATTACH] I have 13 bolts / a couple of nut/studs between me and the timing setup... and the dreaded bolt on the oil pickup... Given the snails pace this has gone so far - I'm basically setting the bar at getting the OPG done and the front back on today. If I get the valve covers on too - great - but in general I'm finding things more more slowly than I had hoped! I'm enjoying the process since I'm not in a hurry - and it's totally worth doing yourself to get to know your car better... (let's see how I feel when I'm done). I know pulling the radiator set me back some - but I also hope it will let me make up some time in the next stage as there is a ton of space to work in there now. OF course - after a full day of wrenching yesterday - my lower back is "stiff" to say the least! I am getting anxious too - I'm ready to start doing - not undoing! [/QUOTE]
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fishpick's 2012 Coyote Vert Build Thread (Base GT Convertible)
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