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2011-2014 Mustang Talk
fishpick's 2012 Coyote Vert Build Thread (Base GT Convertible)
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<blockquote data-quote="fishpick" data-source="post: 15561200" data-attributes="member: 182347"><p>Yesterday morning started off with stretching and an Advil or 3... Getting old sucks.</p><p>I got back at things early on picking up where I left off... The timing cover removal isn't too bad but the old RTV does stick a little. I just used a nylon / plastic flat edged tool from a cheap interior panel set to work my way around to get things loosened up and then when it's loose - it just pops off!</p><p>Timing chain removal / replacement - THe instructions from the service manual and the post here on OPG replacement (which is just a better version of the FOrd service manual) are pretty spot on. The use of the whiteout to mark a cam / sprocket and the chain is brilliance. One thing I would offer to anyone else doing this... The instructions have you remove chain 1 with the key on the crank at 12 o'clock, then go back to 9 o'clock and remove chain 2. Pull the OP, do the work, replace OP, replace chain 2 and then go back to 12 o'clock and replace chain 1. </p><p>I'll talk about the OPG's here in a second - but replacing the last chain... It would NOT go on with the marked links on the cam and crank sprockets... no matter what I did... It went on - but without enough room for the tensioner guide. I messed with this long enough that I got that sliver of panic going "ohh my god, what do I do, close it all up and tow it like this to a Ford dealer!??!" kind of panic. As I stood back I looked at the crank and though - you know that's at like 11:58 and the directions say 12:00 - let see if that works. 2 minutes of angle change on the crank yields about 1/2" of play in the chain.</p><p>When the directions tell you 12 and 9 o'clock, they don't mean early or late!</p><p>With that said - the oil pump removal, for all the "this is the worst part of the job" I was prepared for... turned out to be a pretty simple effort, actually... I still think the bumper cover removal and / or radiator removal were harder!</p><p>Yes - the lower bolt on the oil pickup tube is a pain - but I had a 10mm ratcheting wrench from Harbor Freight and that got it loose and a few cranks out. I then took a loop of fishing line, put it over the head and pulled the loop tight so when the bolt drops free, it won't head into the oil pan. From there I just loosened the bolt using a flat head screwdriver - easy peasy - took maybe 10 minutes total to get the OP off - and that's from working inside the car... (no lift here - it's on jackstands)</p><p>[ATTACH]85999[/ATTACH] </p><p>With the OP off - the gears are a snap to replace... Coated them with assembly oil - because it's red and sticky and fun to work with. Test spun them and was ready to put back on the car.</p><p>[ATTACH]86001[/ATTACH] </p><p>Then putting the OP back on - you have two things that are working against you. One of them is "why can't I get my oil pump back on" - the OPG's inside the pump have a channel that needs to be lined up with a ridge on the OP itself or you can't get it all the way on the crank... simple, but I have not seen this talked about anywhere else...</p><p>[ATTACH]86006[/ATTACH] </p><p>You can see the 2 "teeth and channel" and the flat spot on the pump body - aligned like this - it fits... change it - it does not. Easy.</p><p>The second issue is gravity conspiring against you to get the lower bolt back on to that pickup tube. But I have a fix for that too.</p><p>Look at the threading on the bolt... cinch a reversible slip knot of fishing line down onto the bolt as close to the head as you can. Now spin the bolt, wrapping the line around it so that when you "pull" the line the bolt will naturally be turning in the threadwise "tightening". Using a needle nose plier (and a helper to keep some tension on the wrapped fishing line) get the bolt up into the hole and then gently support the head into the hole using a screwdriver. Let go with the pliers and let your helper GENTLY pull on the fishing line... Using this technique it took me 3 tries to get it in the hole and then - one gentle pull and the bolt was threaded so far in I could pull the "loosening" side of the slip knot with pliers - and finish the job with my ratcheting wrench. 10 min tops!</p><p>[ATTACH]86003[/ATTACH] </p><p>The fishing line here is hard to see... but it's there!</p><p>[ATTACH]86004[/ATTACH] </p><p>SO - OPG and sprocket done, what's next?</p><p>[ATTACH]86000[/ATTACH] </p><p>Ohh yeah - you get to finally use .50 cents of the $30 tube of the Ford RTV to put the timing cover back on the car. Which presented a unique challenge. According to Ford you have 5 minutes of open working time on the RTV... the cover has 2 different sized bolts, a different sized set of 2 studs, and 2 bolts and studs down under the car from the oil pan up to the timing cover that are HARD to get at... so in looking at this race against the clock it became obvious I wasn't going to win... SO I devised an edge.</p><p>[ATTACH]86005[/ATTACH] </p><p>If you look closely at the cover you will see blue, green and red bolts... the corresponding holes under the heads / washers on the timing cover are also colored green, blue and red... This is a MASSIVE time saver when you are on the RTV clock. No guessing - it's just push the cover into place and as you see a color around a hole, you stick the matching bolt in that hole... simple. Sharpies provided the coloring.</p><p>I got the cover on, all bolts installed and tight, and the bolts that span any of the RTV joints torqued, in 5:45 - including a bolt and a stud on the oil pan that were closest to the outside where the RTV was. Never could have done it that fast without the color coding. Makes removing and replacing the front engine cover a snap!</p><p>From there - things go back together pretty easily - of course I replaced the front cover gaskets (there are 3) and the gaskets on the valve covers... I was also happy when my wife came out at the end of the day and asked how thing were going.</p><p>[ATTACH]86002[/ATTACH]</p><p>So today I'm starting with the Whipple manual and the steps of disassembly of the whole front engine I performed and making up the instructions so I know what's done and what's left to do. (gotta get the water pump reinstalled to really be "done" before starting the SC install - but that's it) </p><p>I can't tell you how happy I am to have done the OPG / sprocket - the piece of mind is TOTALLY worth the effort - which really wasn't that bad. 2 days for me not working at a breakneck speed for sure - but I'm now "ahead" for the Whipple since the front of the engine is nekid!</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="fishpick, post: 15561200, member: 182347"] Yesterday morning started off with stretching and an Advil or 3... Getting old sucks. I got back at things early on picking up where I left off... The timing cover removal isn't too bad but the old RTV does stick a little. I just used a nylon / plastic flat edged tool from a cheap interior panel set to work my way around to get things loosened up and then when it's loose - it just pops off! Timing chain removal / replacement - THe instructions from the service manual and the post here on OPG replacement (which is just a better version of the FOrd service manual) are pretty spot on. The use of the whiteout to mark a cam / sprocket and the chain is brilliance. One thing I would offer to anyone else doing this... The instructions have you remove chain 1 with the key on the crank at 12 o'clock, then go back to 9 o'clock and remove chain 2. Pull the OP, do the work, replace OP, replace chain 2 and then go back to 12 o'clock and replace chain 1. I'll talk about the OPG's here in a second - but replacing the last chain... It would NOT go on with the marked links on the cam and crank sprockets... no matter what I did... It went on - but without enough room for the tensioner guide. I messed with this long enough that I got that sliver of panic going "ohh my god, what do I do, close it all up and tow it like this to a Ford dealer!??!" kind of panic. As I stood back I looked at the crank and though - you know that's at like 11:58 and the directions say 12:00 - let see if that works. 2 minutes of angle change on the crank yields about 1/2" of play in the chain. When the directions tell you 12 and 9 o'clock, they don't mean early or late! With that said - the oil pump removal, for all the "this is the worst part of the job" I was prepared for... turned out to be a pretty simple effort, actually... I still think the bumper cover removal and / or radiator removal were harder! Yes - the lower bolt on the oil pickup tube is a pain - but I had a 10mm ratcheting wrench from Harbor Freight and that got it loose and a few cranks out. I then took a loop of fishing line, put it over the head and pulled the loop tight so when the bolt drops free, it won't head into the oil pan. From there I just loosened the bolt using a flat head screwdriver - easy peasy - took maybe 10 minutes total to get the OP off - and that's from working inside the car... (no lift here - it's on jackstands) [ATTACH]85999[/ATTACH] With the OP off - the gears are a snap to replace... Coated them with assembly oil - because it's red and sticky and fun to work with. Test spun them and was ready to put back on the car. [ATTACH]86001[/ATTACH] Then putting the OP back on - you have two things that are working against you. One of them is "why can't I get my oil pump back on" - the OPG's inside the pump have a channel that needs to be lined up with a ridge on the OP itself or you can't get it all the way on the crank... simple, but I have not seen this talked about anywhere else... [ATTACH]86006[/ATTACH] You can see the 2 "teeth and channel" and the flat spot on the pump body - aligned like this - it fits... change it - it does not. Easy. The second issue is gravity conspiring against you to get the lower bolt back on to that pickup tube. But I have a fix for that too. Look at the threading on the bolt... cinch a reversible slip knot of fishing line down onto the bolt as close to the head as you can. Now spin the bolt, wrapping the line around it so that when you "pull" the line the bolt will naturally be turning in the threadwise "tightening". Using a needle nose plier (and a helper to keep some tension on the wrapped fishing line) get the bolt up into the hole and then gently support the head into the hole using a screwdriver. Let go with the pliers and let your helper GENTLY pull on the fishing line... Using this technique it took me 3 tries to get it in the hole and then - one gentle pull and the bolt was threaded so far in I could pull the "loosening" side of the slip knot with pliers - and finish the job with my ratcheting wrench. 10 min tops! [ATTACH]86003[/ATTACH] The fishing line here is hard to see... but it's there! [ATTACH]86004[/ATTACH] SO - OPG and sprocket done, what's next? [ATTACH]86000[/ATTACH] Ohh yeah - you get to finally use .50 cents of the $30 tube of the Ford RTV to put the timing cover back on the car. Which presented a unique challenge. According to Ford you have 5 minutes of open working time on the RTV... the cover has 2 different sized bolts, a different sized set of 2 studs, and 2 bolts and studs down under the car from the oil pan up to the timing cover that are HARD to get at... so in looking at this race against the clock it became obvious I wasn't going to win... SO I devised an edge. [ATTACH]86005[/ATTACH] If you look closely at the cover you will see blue, green and red bolts... the corresponding holes under the heads / washers on the timing cover are also colored green, blue and red... This is a MASSIVE time saver when you are on the RTV clock. No guessing - it's just push the cover into place and as you see a color around a hole, you stick the matching bolt in that hole... simple. Sharpies provided the coloring. I got the cover on, all bolts installed and tight, and the bolts that span any of the RTV joints torqued, in 5:45 - including a bolt and a stud on the oil pan that were closest to the outside where the RTV was. Never could have done it that fast without the color coding. Makes removing and replacing the front engine cover a snap! From there - things go back together pretty easily - of course I replaced the front cover gaskets (there are 3) and the gaskets on the valve covers... I was also happy when my wife came out at the end of the day and asked how thing were going. [ATTACH]86002[/ATTACH] So today I'm starting with the Whipple manual and the steps of disassembly of the whole front engine I performed and making up the instructions so I know what's done and what's left to do. (gotta get the water pump reinstalled to really be "done" before starting the SC install - but that's it) I can't tell you how happy I am to have done the OPG / sprocket - the piece of mind is TOTALLY worth the effort - which really wasn't that bad. 2 days for me not working at a breakneck speed for sure - but I'm now "ahead" for the Whipple since the front of the engine is nekid! [/QUOTE]
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fishpick's 2012 Coyote Vert Build Thread (Base GT Convertible)
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