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SVT Shelby GT500
For people with higher horsepower what is your tire setup.. Bigger or Wider??
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<blockquote data-quote="SirShaun" data-source="post: 15830987" data-attributes="member: 163618"><p>I'm assuming your talking drag tires. I am going off of "at speed" meaning at the speed limit.</p><p></p><p>Bias Ply - Softer Sidewall, more Tire Roll. Better for launching though as the softer sidewall lessens the shock on the drive train. Would probably be fine on the street if "at speed" means at the speed limit. Tires may develop flat spots if the car sits long enough.</p><p></p><p>Drag Radial - Stiffer Sidewall, Handles Better, Harder on the drivetrain, as the tire doesn't eat the shock as much, and typically less consistent when launching, more of an on/off hook or spin, where as Bias Ply will recover better due to elasticity.</p><p></p><p>Generally the more sidewall you have, the better the traction. Even the Drag Radial will wrinkle, given enough sidewall. Wider can also slow your ET, as there is more rolling resistance. Weight is also a factor. I doubt you can get any lighter than a 15x10 drag wheel with a Bias Ply. Radials weigh a tad more due to the rigid/belted construction.</p><p></p><p>I recommend trying on a 275/60/15 Drag Radial. Bias Ply would be fine as well just be aware of the tire roll/flat spots. They will both handle the speed limit in turns. The real problem is rain. It is 0 fun getting caught in the rain on slicks. I'm talking a 30 mph, white knuckled, hydroplaning pissing everyone off behind you good time.</p><p></p><p>I put quite a few street miles on 15x10 (325/50/15) Hoosier DRs, paired with 17x4.5 front runners. I was cornering fine at the speed limit, would I road race, no. The front runners were more of a concern than the rear though, increased breaking distance and under-steer were prevalent due to the skinnies.</p><p></p><p>Whatever tire you go with, weld your axle tubes. 325/50/15 was too much tire, dry hooking at 3500rpm, car was coming out of first gear, ultimately shifted an axle tube, put tire into quarter panel burned some paint/stripe up. I'm going back with welded axle tubes, 3.73s, Tru Trac, Moser Axles, on a 275 next time.</p><p></p><p>If the car shudders violently, let off, this is wheel hop, and will bend/break axles and driveshafts. You can look into rear suspension upgrades to stiffen up the rear if it is a problem for you.</p><p></p><p>Might want to upgrade your driveshaft from the stock 2 piece before you go and start beating on it. I've seen them do a number on floor pans/tunnels. I think around 600 wheel horsepower is when folks start looking aftermarket.</p><p></p><p>Then it's just a matter of having a lot of fun, and waiting for the clutch to go, and/or the rear end to break.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="SirShaun, post: 15830987, member: 163618"] I'm assuming your talking drag tires. I am going off of "at speed" meaning at the speed limit. Bias Ply - Softer Sidewall, more Tire Roll. Better for launching though as the softer sidewall lessens the shock on the drive train. Would probably be fine on the street if "at speed" means at the speed limit. Tires may develop flat spots if the car sits long enough. Drag Radial - Stiffer Sidewall, Handles Better, Harder on the drivetrain, as the tire doesn't eat the shock as much, and typically less consistent when launching, more of an on/off hook or spin, where as Bias Ply will recover better due to elasticity. Generally the more sidewall you have, the better the traction. Even the Drag Radial will wrinkle, given enough sidewall. Wider can also slow your ET, as there is more rolling resistance. Weight is also a factor. I doubt you can get any lighter than a 15x10 drag wheel with a Bias Ply. Radials weigh a tad more due to the rigid/belted construction. I recommend trying on a 275/60/15 Drag Radial. Bias Ply would be fine as well just be aware of the tire roll/flat spots. They will both handle the speed limit in turns. The real problem is rain. It is 0 fun getting caught in the rain on slicks. I'm talking a 30 mph, white knuckled, hydroplaning pissing everyone off behind you good time. I put quite a few street miles on 15x10 (325/50/15) Hoosier DRs, paired with 17x4.5 front runners. I was cornering fine at the speed limit, would I road race, no. The front runners were more of a concern than the rear though, increased breaking distance and under-steer were prevalent due to the skinnies. Whatever tire you go with, weld your axle tubes. 325/50/15 was too much tire, dry hooking at 3500rpm, car was coming out of first gear, ultimately shifted an axle tube, put tire into quarter panel burned some paint/stripe up. I'm going back with welded axle tubes, 3.73s, Tru Trac, Moser Axles, on a 275 next time. If the car shudders violently, let off, this is wheel hop, and will bend/break axles and driveshafts. You can look into rear suspension upgrades to stiffen up the rear if it is a problem for you. Might want to upgrade your driveshaft from the stock 2 piece before you go and start beating on it. I've seen them do a number on floor pans/tunnels. I think around 600 wheel horsepower is when folks start looking aftermarket. Then it's just a matter of having a lot of fun, and waiting for the clutch to go, and/or the rear end to break. [/QUOTE]
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For people with higher horsepower what is your tire setup.. Bigger or Wider??
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