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<blockquote data-quote="scottydsntknow" data-source="post: 15734993" data-attributes="member: 79824"><p>For the control arms the bushings came right out for me. I didn't even break a sweat with the lowers. I think I may be the only person this has ever happened to tho... I know its not normal. I used the FTBR removal tools. Legit the uppers were harder than the lowers, I had the 4 old rubber LCA bushings out in 20 minutes, no heat or anything I was floored. The subframes were already done with prothane ones when I got it.</p><p></p><p>Dropping it out is easy, putting it back up was a total bitch and a half to get the front subframe bolts to go in because no car is 100% straight.</p><p></p><p>SPREAD THE ATTACH POINTS OUT ON THE BODY OF THE CAR BEFORE YOU TRY PUTTING THE IRS BACK IN! This helps a LOT...</p><p></p><p>What else... Use a drill press or borrow one for the subframe grease fittings. Do NOT tap them all the way with the supplied tap, you tap it only as far as you need to for the fitting to bottom out when the thread ends in the correct orientation. Use the orientation recommended by FTBR. I put the grease fittings on without marking anything beforehand using the FTBR instructions and I can service them just fine. Make sure you use a shitload of cutting oil when drilling/tapping buy some from Amazon if you don't have any. The lowers are easy to drill/tap but the uppers are a HARD metal and much much tougher. Also you need to make sure you are DEAD center and drilling straight in on the uppers since there is not a lot of "meat" on them. Why I recommend a press.</p><p></p><p>Um... bolts... If you are not using the OEM or FTBR supplied bolts, make DAMN sure you are using metric grade 10.9 bolts. When I got my IRS the dude who had it gave me all the hardware too and it was all metric 8.8 stuff... that is a very bad idea since 8.8 is "grade 5". I had to order a lot of stuff from Fastenal since the local hardware stores don't exactly carry a lot of metric 10.9 stuff. [ATTACH=full]1442375[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=full]1442376[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>What else...</p><p></p><p>Put all the new FTBR bushings in the freezer overnight, makes them much much easier to install. I tapped mine right in with a BFH and a block of wood. </p><p></p><p>CROSS AXIS LINKS! Inspect yours. Mine were shot to hell, they need to be done if you didn't buy them, a lot of ppl miss them or just choose not to. Its pricey but... it is what it is.</p><p></p><p>Make sure you are CAREFUL not to booger up the rear diff mounting bracket, the person who I got mine from didn't tell me he crossthreaded it and that was fun to find out. Lucky for me the FTBR rear mount is amazing and available.</p><p></p><p>Speaking of the rear diff mount... get a brace now if you don't already. The Steeda unit is like $160 shipped on Jegs and works great.</p><p></p><p>Now would also be a good time to do the swaybar bushings/end links if not already done as well. Everything is easy to get at now, you'll never have a better chance to do maintenance.</p><p></p><p>Oh also... torque wrench, torque wrench TORQUE WRENCH!!! All values are on the FTBR site. If you don't use them you WILL have problems. You need one that goes to 250 anyway for the nuts on the halfshafts so hopefully you already have one that goes to 250 (and the 184 for the lower control arms). If not, get one from Harbor Freight or order one from Amazon that does.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="scottydsntknow, post: 15734993, member: 79824"] For the control arms the bushings came right out for me. I didn't even break a sweat with the lowers. I think I may be the only person this has ever happened to tho... I know its not normal. I used the FTBR removal tools. Legit the uppers were harder than the lowers, I had the 4 old rubber LCA bushings out in 20 minutes, no heat or anything I was floored. The subframes were already done with prothane ones when I got it. Dropping it out is easy, putting it back up was a total bitch and a half to get the front subframe bolts to go in because no car is 100% straight. SPREAD THE ATTACH POINTS OUT ON THE BODY OF THE CAR BEFORE YOU TRY PUTTING THE IRS BACK IN! This helps a LOT... What else... Use a drill press or borrow one for the subframe grease fittings. Do NOT tap them all the way with the supplied tap, you tap it only as far as you need to for the fitting to bottom out when the thread ends in the correct orientation. Use the orientation recommended by FTBR. I put the grease fittings on without marking anything beforehand using the FTBR instructions and I can service them just fine. Make sure you use a shitload of cutting oil when drilling/tapping buy some from Amazon if you don't have any. The lowers are easy to drill/tap but the uppers are a HARD metal and much much tougher. Also you need to make sure you are DEAD center and drilling straight in on the uppers since there is not a lot of "meat" on them. Why I recommend a press. Um... bolts... If you are not using the OEM or FTBR supplied bolts, make DAMN sure you are using metric grade 10.9 bolts. When I got my IRS the dude who had it gave me all the hardware too and it was all metric 8.8 stuff... that is a very bad idea since 8.8 is "grade 5". I had to order a lot of stuff from Fastenal since the local hardware stores don't exactly carry a lot of metric 10.9 stuff. [ATTACH=full]1442375[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=full]1442376[/ATTACH] What else... Put all the new FTBR bushings in the freezer overnight, makes them much much easier to install. I tapped mine right in with a BFH and a block of wood. CROSS AXIS LINKS! Inspect yours. Mine were shot to hell, they need to be done if you didn't buy them, a lot of ppl miss them or just choose not to. Its pricey but... it is what it is. Make sure you are CAREFUL not to booger up the rear diff mounting bracket, the person who I got mine from didn't tell me he crossthreaded it and that was fun to find out. Lucky for me the FTBR rear mount is amazing and available. Speaking of the rear diff mount... get a brace now if you don't already. The Steeda unit is like $160 shipped on Jegs and works great. Now would also be a good time to do the swaybar bushings/end links if not already done as well. Everything is easy to get at now, you'll never have a better chance to do maintenance. Oh also... torque wrench, torque wrench TORQUE WRENCH!!! All values are on the FTBR site. If you don't use them you WILL have problems. You need one that goes to 250 anyway for the nuts on the halfshafts so hopefully you already have one that goes to 250 (and the 184 for the lower control arms). If not, get one from Harbor Freight or order one from Amazon that does. [/QUOTE]
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