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2015+ Shelby GT350 Mustang
GT350 Header bolt torque spec
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<blockquote data-quote="ANGREY" data-source="post: 16238596" data-attributes="member: 188865"><p>1) I did my swap with the motor in the car, which is a giant PITA.</p><p>2) I used Stage 8, with the locking tabs, but the problem is the stage 8 bolt head sizes are small, so they don't have the coverage/bearing area as the kooks bolts, so you'll have to check to ensure that they give enough bearing on the kooks flanges as you're comfortable with. On my ARH, the flanges are slotted (to ease installation) and there was only a marginal amount of coverage I was comfortable with across the flange opening.</p><p>3) I'd be cautious using anti-seize if you're not going to use the stage 8 with locking tabs. I didn't have a torque spec either, so I torqued them as much as I felt safe with the confidence that the motor vibrations wouldn't be able to work them loose. Anti-seize is great if you have a spec'd torque you're comfortable with that won't vibe loose. I guess what I'm saying is anti-seize works both ways, ensures you don't bind on the way in, but also means that threads are slippery so head to flange bond will need to be greater than any NVH concerns.</p><p>4) Another part of the equation is the gaskets. If you have a good gasket, it can go a LONG way into ensuring you don't have leaks and don't need to torque the bolts to death to keep them from backing out. Hopefully you bought new ones (or they come with the Kooks) and you're not trying to reuse the OEM ones.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="ANGREY, post: 16238596, member: 188865"] 1) I did my swap with the motor in the car, which is a giant PITA. 2) I used Stage 8, with the locking tabs, but the problem is the stage 8 bolt head sizes are small, so they don't have the coverage/bearing area as the kooks bolts, so you'll have to check to ensure that they give enough bearing on the kooks flanges as you're comfortable with. On my ARH, the flanges are slotted (to ease installation) and there was only a marginal amount of coverage I was comfortable with across the flange opening. 3) I'd be cautious using anti-seize if you're not going to use the stage 8 with locking tabs. I didn't have a torque spec either, so I torqued them as much as I felt safe with the confidence that the motor vibrations wouldn't be able to work them loose. Anti-seize is great if you have a spec'd torque you're comfortable with that won't vibe loose. I guess what I'm saying is anti-seize works both ways, ensures you don't bind on the way in, but also means that threads are slippery so head to flange bond will need to be greater than any NVH concerns. 4) Another part of the equation is the gaskets. If you have a good gasket, it can go a LONG way into ensuring you don't have leaks and don't need to torque the bolts to death to keep them from backing out. Hopefully you bought new ones (or they come with the Kooks) and you're not trying to reuse the OEM ones. [/QUOTE]
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2015+ Shelby GT350 Mustang
GT350 Header bolt torque spec
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