GTech Pro times for my 03

[larryc7777]

I know a lot of people don't put much faith in the times that the GTech reports, but the strips around here have pretty much shut down for the year. I have found that my technique returns ETs that are usually within +/- .1 of what I run at the strip. MPH is about 5-7 MPH higher than what I get at the strip.
That said, I went to my favorite straight, flat blacktop backroad today and got these results. [email protected] and [email protected]. I did 1 run in each direction to remove any bias of wind. The temp was about 40 deg. and the ground was very slightly damp in spots. So traction was hard to come by. I did see a 4.89 flash for 0-60 on the first run, but I missed the 0-60 for the second run( 0-60 isn't held in memory for this model GTech).
My car is stock except for a Densecharger CAI. And no, I didn't get any times before installing the DC. I only have 650 miles on the clock.


Some comparisons:
98 Camaro SS,modified A4,3000 stall,MTI lid,GMS maf,Borla catback,Hypertech program...13.23@110 0-60..4.81

01 Audi S4,GIAC X chip,TIP chip,modified exhaust,Forge BPVs,AWE SFlow CAI...13.35@107 0-60..4.76

92 Mitsu 3000GT VR4,K&N,Borla,custom ECU programming....13.43@111 0-60..4.79

Each of these other vehicles was run on the same road, but weather conditions were BETTER than the Cobra runs that I made today. All runs made with street tires.

Are these great cars or what:thumbsup:

 

[Mowgli]

How did you launch? RPM, etc.

 

[Ryan]

actually G-techs are fairly accurate, its the MPH that is off due to it measuring it at the 1/4 and the drag strip measuring it before

 

[StangD281]

I'm thinking of getting a G-Tech....something to do while joyriding I guess :shrug:

Can anyone add a little wealth of knowledge on the G-Tech product line. I read the website, people...I'm looking for personal experiences & tests with the damn thaaang, mmmkay! ;-)

 

[Ryan]

the one i used (when I was stock) actually hit my track time dead on. I ran a 15.49, and the G-Tech hit 15.49 - 15.55 IIRC, the trap speed was a lil high though, on the track I trapped at 89.5-90.5, G-Tech said 93-94 IIRC

 

[StangD281]

I'm more concerned with the time than the MPH....I know what MPH I should be running, so I'll be able to tell how far off. I dont suspect much.

Was that a G-Tech Pro? There is the G-Tech Pro for $140, and the G-Tech Competition for $250. Competition has a nice little screen with a display, whereas the Pro looks like a radar detector.

 

[Ryan]

you sir are correct

 

[StangD281]

Not only am I perfect, I look good doin' it too ;-)

Is it worth the extra $110 for the Competition? I just wanna see 1/4 mile times on the street really....sole purpose of buying it.

 

[Ryan]

:shrug: dunno its fairly new...

BTW sorry to hijack your thread!

Originally posted by StangD281
Not only am I perfect, I look good doin' it too ;-)

Is it worth the extra $110 for the Competition? I just wanna see 1/4 mile times on the street really....sole purpose of buying it.

 

[StangD281]

Originally posted by RTStabler51
[BBTW sorry to hijack your thread! [/B]

Ya, sorry man!

 

[larryc7777]

Hey Guys,

I'll try to answer a few of the ?s. I had to launch VERY conservatively since the temp was about 40 deg & the ground was slightly damp in spots. I used about 1500 RPM & feathered the clutch & throttle to give as little wheelspin as possible. I barely got to WOT in 1st. I always powershift...too many years of drag racing.

The problem with the GTech Pro is that you have to be looking at the led readout in order to see the 0-60 time. If you are looking at the screen intently, you can't look at the tach. I was shifting 1-2 by using the force instead of watching the tach. I think I shifted too early because I was concerned about nudging the redline & causing the fuel shutoff to activate. That would totally screw up the run!. The other gears were banged at 6400 RPM. I really need to raise that fuel shut off point. Can you say CHIP.

The new Competition model looks really slick. It utilizes 3 accelerometers instead of just one. You don't have to struggle with the front to back orientation or jack with the unit to make absolutely sure that it is level. The Competition unit AUTOMATICALLY compensates for mounting position in the Drag Race mode. It also has a built in shift light. I only have the information contained in the downloadable PDF owner's manual to go by, but it really sounds like a high quality unit. Accuracy to within .05 sec and repeatability at .0005 sec. Absolute HP & Torque measurements are within 3% & consistencty within .5%. I want one.

Most people realize that the GTech units read high on the MPH, but it's not as well known that they actually read slightly high on ET when compared to strip times. Here's why, at the strip the timing clocks don't actually start until the front tire rolls completely thru the light beam & allows the beam to shine across the lane to the beam pick up point on the other side of the lane. That's what starts the timing clock for that lane. Since the car is already slightly moving when the tire rolls out of the beam, it's like getting a "running start" before the timer actually begins. That's why shallow staging gives better ETs and deep staging gives better reaction times(assuming both vehicles leave at exactly the same time). The GTech, on the other hand, begins timing as soon as the vehicle moves. No running start, therefore, the ET may be a few hundreths slower than what the same vehicle could record at a drag strip.

GTech results are an excellent way to judge the benefit of each modification done to the vehicle. Especially if the testing procedure is religiously followed for each session. But don't believe that your time & speed is exactly what you will run at the strip. Accept the unit for what it is, a very accurate way to evaluate modifications. Hope this helps. Larry

 

[StangD281]

Larry -

Thanks for taking the time to respond. I appreciate the info, and that extra $110 for the competition model may be worth it after all.

Thanks!
Dan