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SVTPerformance's Chain of Restaurants
Road Kill Drive-Thru
gto VS 3valve
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<blockquote data-quote="FMX05" data-source="post: 9455084" data-attributes="member: 101516"><p>It's the street. Anything can happen. I'm telling you that a car that traps the same MPH as you should run DEAD even with you from a roll if it is driven equally as good as yours. Like I said before, the GTO you raced IS a 113 car. I'm not saying he would have pulled back in 4th. You raced and beat a 113 car driven by someone with marginal skills (not bashing here). A full exhaust/tune LS1 F-body was my example because they consistently run 110-113. My friend trapped 112.4 with full exhaust/no tune with a broken posi. From a roll he put 2-3 lengths on an LT1 with full exhaust and a 100 shot. Consistently. Every single time. That LT1 runs 12.2's at 112 and it's auto. Now do you see why I say setup doesn't matter as long as both cars are hooking the car with the higher trap speed should win if the driver can drive it?</p><p></p><p></p><p></p><p>I see why this thread has gone over 20 pages. You think your 111mph trapping car has something special that lets it pull on 120mph cars from a roll. That's just not how it works bud. If you beat a 120mph car from a roll there was driver error or wheelspin involved. If driven equally the higher trapping car wins every time (unless it's a ricer race like I explained in my last post.)</p><p></p><p></p><p></p><p></p><p>EDIT: You are ricer racing now that I look at it. All of your runs start from 35mph. An F-body/GTO with stock gearing shifts out of first at 40mph. They are starting in the bottom of 2nd. Run one of them from a 20 roll or a 50 roll. I bet the outcome would be different. 35mph IS your 2nd gear sweet spot and 120mph is just above the top of third in in the GTO/Fbody. I'll give you props for being a douche and only running people from the race you want.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="FMX05, post: 9455084, member: 101516"] It's the street. Anything can happen. I'm telling you that a car that traps the same MPH as you should run DEAD even with you from a roll if it is driven equally as good as yours. Like I said before, the GTO you raced IS a 113 car. I'm not saying he would have pulled back in 4th. You raced and beat a 113 car driven by someone with marginal skills (not bashing here). A full exhaust/tune LS1 F-body was my example because they consistently run 110-113. My friend trapped 112.4 with full exhaust/no tune with a broken posi. From a roll he put 2-3 lengths on an LT1 with full exhaust and a 100 shot. Consistently. Every single time. That LT1 runs 12.2's at 112 and it's auto. Now do you see why I say setup doesn't matter as long as both cars are hooking the car with the higher trap speed should win if the driver can drive it? I see why this thread has gone over 20 pages. You think your 111mph trapping car has something special that lets it pull on 120mph cars from a roll. That's just not how it works bud. If you beat a 120mph car from a roll there was driver error or wheelspin involved. If driven equally the higher trapping car wins every time (unless it's a ricer race like I explained in my last post.) EDIT: You are ricer racing now that I look at it. All of your runs start from 35mph. An F-body/GTO with stock gearing shifts out of first at 40mph. They are starting in the bottom of 2nd. Run one of them from a 20 roll or a 50 roll. I bet the outcome would be different. 35mph IS your 2nd gear sweet spot and 120mph is just above the top of third in in the GTO/Fbody. I'll give you props for being a douche and only running people from the race you want. [/QUOTE]
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Road Kill Drive-Thru
gto VS 3valve
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