Home
What's new
Latest activity
Authors
Store
Latest reviews
Search products
Forums
New posts
Search forums
What's new
New posts
New listings
New products
New profile posts
Latest activity
Members
Current visitors
New profile posts
Search profile posts
Log in
Register
Cart
Cart
Loading…
What's new
Search
Search
Search titles only
By:
New posts
Search forums
Search titles only
By:
Menu
Log in
Register
Navigation
Install the app
Install
More options
Change style
Contact us
Close Menu
Forums
Cobra Forums
The Terminator
Driveline
Havent read anythign about Gears???
JavaScript is disabled. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding.
You are using an out of date browser. It may not display this or other websites correctly.
You should upgrade or use an
alternative browser
.
Reply to thread
Message
<blockquote data-quote="jtfx6552" data-source="post: 155855" data-attributes="member: 3823"><p>OK, the only thing that will get you down the track is more power. So the question is, can 4.10's transfer more power to the track than 3.55's can? </p><p></p><p>The answer is, only if you have enough traction. So if you run slicks, or some reasonable equivalent of slicks, you can possibly get a better ET.</p><p></p><p>On street tires, forget about it. There is no way you'll get a better ET; you'll be lucky not to lose time. Here are the reasons:</p><p></p><p>1) With street tires, there is already enough torque available to overpower the tires. Any extra torque available to overpower the tires does no work, and cannot help you get down the track.</p><p></p><p>2) Events that happen early in your run have a more dramatic outcome on your ET. Have you ever noticed that if you miss second, or have a crappy 1-2 shift your ET will suffer dramatically, but if you miss fourth or have a crappy 3-4 the ET is still not to bad? The reason is at the 3-4 shift you are already going 107 MPH, so even though you aren't accelerating you are still getting down the track. At the 1-2 you are only going 50 MPH (with 3.55's). Anyway why is this relevant? Because you are momentarily not applying power to the track during every shift and now each shift happens sooner, which is a more critical point in the run. Even if you shift like a trained mongoose, all shifts, but especially the 1-2 now have a more pronounced effect on your ET.</p><p></p><p>3) Ok, so you can shift like a trained mongoose, what happens next? You shred the tires on the 1-2 shift. So now, not only have you moved the shift to a more critical point, but you loose more ET while you either spin the tires, or lay off the power in some way to get into second with some traction.</p><p></p><p>4) Now you have more overall reduction in every gear, so you have to be applying more torque (force more appropriately) to the track, right? Well, what about this. With the 4.10's you have 10.9:1 overall reduction in first gear, so with (using round numbers for simplicity) 460 ft*lbs you can apply 5014 ft Lbs to the track (if you have traction). With 3.55's you can only apply 4343 ft*lbs. So the 4.10 car will pull out (again with traction). With street tires the most likely result is, at best you’ll stay even since both cars have the same traction. But then what happens when you hit 6500 RPMs? In 1st with the 4.10's at 45 MPH, you have to shift into second, and assuming again, you have traction you can now deliver 3357 ft*lbs to the track. But guess what? The car with the 3.55's is still in first however and is still putting down 4343 ft*lbs! So now while you are spinning or granny shifting on the 1-2, the 3.55 car is motoring down the track. This is repeated for every gear.</p><p></p><p>5) As some have pointed out, depending on mods, you will run out of RPMs in fourth.</p><p></p><p>6) OK, so do I have any proof of my BS? To me I do, you can believe it or not. I started racing an ’82 GT in 1983. The car started with 3.08’s, then had 3.73’s, 4.10’s and finally 4.56’s. Every time I changed the rear, I would run the car with only that change. EVERY time, the gear change hurt the ET. The only way to get it back was to strap on the 28 x 9 slicks. When I sold the car it had a 351 W in it and ran Mid 11’s at mid 120’s so I think I know from where I speak.</p><p></p><p>7) Silver, not a flame, you can say what you want, but you have 30-40 HP on me and still your best 1/8 is off from mine at all three tracks I run at. So your track sucks, I get that, but hey, is every track around here great?</p><p></p><p>8) Hammer, if you don’t have exhaust yet (even if you do, but the results would be a lot murkier), it might be nice in the name of science of course, to line up at the strip and see what happens. I plan on going to Cecil this Wednesday.</p><p></p><p>Again, I am not flaming anyone. I just want to point out what I have found in my 20+ years draggin’ and modifying experience (Damn I’m getting’ old).</p><p> </p><p></p><p>I feel that best case, again, not on slicks, is that the gears will not cost you anything. I think for $650.00-1000.00 people can really add HP, which always helps.</p><p></p><p>JT</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="jtfx6552, post: 155855, member: 3823"] OK, the only thing that will get you down the track is more power. So the question is, can 4.10's transfer more power to the track than 3.55's can? The answer is, only if you have enough traction. So if you run slicks, or some reasonable equivalent of slicks, you can possibly get a better ET. On street tires, forget about it. There is no way you'll get a better ET; you'll be lucky not to lose time. Here are the reasons: 1) With street tires, there is already enough torque available to overpower the tires. Any extra torque available to overpower the tires does no work, and cannot help you get down the track. 2) Events that happen early in your run have a more dramatic outcome on your ET. Have you ever noticed that if you miss second, or have a crappy 1-2 shift your ET will suffer dramatically, but if you miss fourth or have a crappy 3-4 the ET is still not to bad? The reason is at the 3-4 shift you are already going 107 MPH, so even though you aren't accelerating you are still getting down the track. At the 1-2 you are only going 50 MPH (with 3.55's). Anyway why is this relevant? Because you are momentarily not applying power to the track during every shift and now each shift happens sooner, which is a more critical point in the run. Even if you shift like a trained mongoose, all shifts, but especially the 1-2 now have a more pronounced effect on your ET. 3) Ok, so you can shift like a trained mongoose, what happens next? You shred the tires on the 1-2 shift. So now, not only have you moved the shift to a more critical point, but you loose more ET while you either spin the tires, or lay off the power in some way to get into second with some traction. 4) Now you have more overall reduction in every gear, so you have to be applying more torque (force more appropriately) to the track, right? Well, what about this. With the 4.10's you have 10.9:1 overall reduction in first gear, so with (using round numbers for simplicity) 460 ft*lbs you can apply 5014 ft Lbs to the track (if you have traction). With 3.55's you can only apply 4343 ft*lbs. So the 4.10 car will pull out (again with traction). With street tires the most likely result is, at best you’ll stay even since both cars have the same traction. But then what happens when you hit 6500 RPMs? In 1st with the 4.10's at 45 MPH, you have to shift into second, and assuming again, you have traction you can now deliver 3357 ft*lbs to the track. But guess what? The car with the 3.55's is still in first however and is still putting down 4343 ft*lbs! So now while you are spinning or granny shifting on the 1-2, the 3.55 car is motoring down the track. This is repeated for every gear. 5) As some have pointed out, depending on mods, you will run out of RPMs in fourth. 6) OK, so do I have any proof of my BS? To me I do, you can believe it or not. I started racing an ’82 GT in 1983. The car started with 3.08’s, then had 3.73’s, 4.10’s and finally 4.56’s. Every time I changed the rear, I would run the car with only that change. EVERY time, the gear change hurt the ET. The only way to get it back was to strap on the 28 x 9 slicks. When I sold the car it had a 351 W in it and ran Mid 11’s at mid 120’s so I think I know from where I speak. 7) Silver, not a flame, you can say what you want, but you have 30-40 HP on me and still your best 1/8 is off from mine at all three tracks I run at. So your track sucks, I get that, but hey, is every track around here great? 8) Hammer, if you don’t have exhaust yet (even if you do, but the results would be a lot murkier), it might be nice in the name of science of course, to line up at the strip and see what happens. I plan on going to Cecil this Wednesday. Again, I am not flaming anyone. I just want to point out what I have found in my 20+ years draggin’ and modifying experience (Damn I’m getting’ old). I feel that best case, again, not on slicks, is that the gears will not cost you anything. I think for $650.00-1000.00 people can really add HP, which always helps. JT [/QUOTE]
Insert quotes…
Verification
Post reply
Forums
Cobra Forums
The Terminator
Driveline
Havent read anythign about Gears???
Top