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Help please! P0340 code; common problems have been ruled out!
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<blockquote data-quote="zpstang96" data-source="post: 14151870" data-attributes="member: 148484"><p>Hey guys, I'll try to make this short. I've done my research as to avoid wasting anyone's time, so some help would be appreciated!</p><p></p><p>-1996 GT with a 4v B-head motor, Teksid block .020 over, Kellogg stroker crank, Manley rods/pistons.</p><p>-Using factory GT harness and ECU; harness extended for coolant/TPS sensors, etc. CEL is on and turning up the P0340.</p><p>-Cam sensor, alternator, and crank sensor are new. There is continuity in the wiring for the sensors (checked), and the alternator is performing fine (also checked, diodes are not causing CEL). Wiring checked for short to ground and short to power--nothing found.</p><p>-With the cam sensor plugged in, the car runs like crap. It idles horribly and dies on occasion. Throttle response is extremely poor and it lags at low RPM.</p><p>-With the cam sensor unplugged, the car runs nearly perfect. From what I've read, this points to a timing issue between the crankshaft sensor and the camshaft sensor trigger.</p><p></p><p>This is where my Dad (former mechanic; did the swap with me) and I have come to a partial dead end. He thinks that when the machine shop dialed in the cams, the trigger or reluctor for the cam sensor was moved out of position. The cam timing (mechanically) is correct, but the computer is seeing the difference between the position of the crankshaft and the position of the cam sensor trigger. I am trying to give the machine shop the benefit of the doubt, as they are extremely reputable and have been building these engines for a while.</p><p></p><p><span style="color: #ff0000">Can these problems be caused by anything else??</span> We're guessing that the only way to see if Dad's theory is correct is to pull the timing cover, which we would like to avoid doing until we absolutely have to.</p><p></p><p><span style="color: #ff0000">Stupid question, but I have to ask:</span> Can my tuner who dyno'd the car bypass or delete the cam sensor? Or at least clear the CEL? </p><p></p><p><span style="color: #ff0000">Also, can someone explain to me how:</span> The car made 310hp/304tq on a Mustang Dyno at a 9.5:1 compression ratio with the cam sensor plugged in, and the poor throttle response/idle. I'm having trouble seeing how it made those numbers when it was running so poorly. I'm guessing at WOT/high RPM these problems are insignificant?</p><p></p><p>Unrelated Question: The car is actually running quite cool, but the fan is on 90% of the time. Could this be a bad coolant sensor? The CEL only returns the P0340 though, nothing else.</p><p></p><p>Thanks in advance!</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="zpstang96, post: 14151870, member: 148484"] Hey guys, I'll try to make this short. I've done my research as to avoid wasting anyone's time, so some help would be appreciated! -1996 GT with a 4v B-head motor, Teksid block .020 over, Kellogg stroker crank, Manley rods/pistons. -Using factory GT harness and ECU; harness extended for coolant/TPS sensors, etc. CEL is on and turning up the P0340. -Cam sensor, alternator, and crank sensor are new. There is continuity in the wiring for the sensors (checked), and the alternator is performing fine (also checked, diodes are not causing CEL). Wiring checked for short to ground and short to power--nothing found. -With the cam sensor plugged in, the car runs like crap. It idles horribly and dies on occasion. Throttle response is extremely poor and it lags at low RPM. -With the cam sensor unplugged, the car runs nearly perfect. From what I've read, this points to a timing issue between the crankshaft sensor and the camshaft sensor trigger. This is where my Dad (former mechanic; did the swap with me) and I have come to a partial dead end. He thinks that when the machine shop dialed in the cams, the trigger or reluctor for the cam sensor was moved out of position. The cam timing (mechanically) is correct, but the computer is seeing the difference between the position of the crankshaft and the position of the cam sensor trigger. I am trying to give the machine shop the benefit of the doubt, as they are extremely reputable and have been building these engines for a while. [COLOR=#ff0000]Can these problems be caused by anything else??[/COLOR] We're guessing that the only way to see if Dad's theory is correct is to pull the timing cover, which we would like to avoid doing until we absolutely have to. [COLOR=#ff0000]Stupid question, but I have to ask:[/COLOR] Can my tuner who dyno'd the car bypass or delete the cam sensor? Or at least clear the CEL? [COLOR=#ff0000]Also, can someone explain to me how:[/COLOR] The car made 310hp/304tq on a Mustang Dyno at a 9.5:1 compression ratio with the cam sensor plugged in, and the poor throttle response/idle. I'm having trouble seeing how it made those numbers when it was running so poorly. I'm guessing at WOT/high RPM these problems are insignificant? Unrelated Question: The car is actually running quite cool, but the fan is on 90% of the time. Could this be a bad coolant sensor? The CEL only returns the P0340 though, nothing else. Thanks in advance! [/QUOTE]
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Help please! P0340 code; common problems have been ruled out!
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