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Help please! P0340 code; common problems have been ruled out!
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<blockquote data-quote="iamtheshaner" data-source="post: 14153481" data-attributes="member: 157055"><p>So it runs like it's out of time. The CMP sensor is known good. You have no opens, STG or STP in the wiring. You've attacked the infamous noisy alternator and it still runs like garbage unless you force it into bank fire by disconnecting the cam sensor.</p><p></p><p>Can these problems be caused by anything else? - Not really. It's either out of time or the PCM thinks it is</p><p>Stupid question which must be asked - Is indeed a stupid question. I'm sure someone out there can pull out CMP but this is a textbook example of tuning out a problem and you certainly don't want to go that route</p><p>Also, can someone explain to you... - Fascinating to say the least. Under WOT you are in open loop....which to my knowledge still incorporates sequential injection timing and ignition. If this is NOT the case, and Ford chose to "double fire" the coils and go bank fire under WOT it would explain why it's runs well under WOT. I'm probably missing something...but these are my thoughts at the end of a Monday.... Also, I can make a Mustang dyno say anything I want. They are fantastic tuning aids but the load correction is such a huge variable that just unstrapping the car and restrapping it could throw your #'s off by 10+hp EASY. They are NOT very consistant dyno's and they certainly aren't accurate unless it's been calibrated recently. I love mine but goodness it's a picky little bastard. Rule of thumb is tune with a Mustang, brag with DJet.</p><p></p><p>I can't remember if the primary cam sprockets are bolted or pressed onto these motors. If somone here can chime in with this answer I can tell you whether or not the pickup was incorrectly set by the machine shop. The pickup for the CMP is cast into the sprocket. If it's bolted and keyed - HIGHLY unlikely the sprocket shifted and I would STRONGLY recommend you double check your base valve timing. If it's a press-on and the machine shop had it off for some reason - it very well could be sending BS to the PCM but that would also conclude that your base timing is off because you use marks on that sproket to set base timing. </p><p></p><p>So pretty much however you crack this egg your timing is off.</p><p></p><p>Any other source of RFI such as that from an ignition coil or other aftermarket electronics could very well set your CMP code but they should not result in any driveability issue like this. Are your CMP circuits still twisted 1 twist per inch and covered with a grounded metallic shield? </p><p></p><p>Your issue SCREAMS base timing off. Textbook example, actually. A difference in compression between the two banks will confirm this with 100% certainty. I'm guessing the intake cam(s) aren't phased to the exhaust correctly. Setting the main chains on these motors is so stupid simple I'd be shocked if anyone with any sort of skill (your dad) could screw it up.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="iamtheshaner, post: 14153481, member: 157055"] So it runs like it's out of time. The CMP sensor is known good. You have no opens, STG or STP in the wiring. You've attacked the infamous noisy alternator and it still runs like garbage unless you force it into bank fire by disconnecting the cam sensor. Can these problems be caused by anything else? - Not really. It's either out of time or the PCM thinks it is Stupid question which must be asked - Is indeed a stupid question. I'm sure someone out there can pull out CMP but this is a textbook example of tuning out a problem and you certainly don't want to go that route Also, can someone explain to you... - Fascinating to say the least. Under WOT you are in open loop....which to my knowledge still incorporates sequential injection timing and ignition. If this is NOT the case, and Ford chose to "double fire" the coils and go bank fire under WOT it would explain why it's runs well under WOT. I'm probably missing something...but these are my thoughts at the end of a Monday.... Also, I can make a Mustang dyno say anything I want. They are fantastic tuning aids but the load correction is such a huge variable that just unstrapping the car and restrapping it could throw your #'s off by 10+hp EASY. They are NOT very consistant dyno's and they certainly aren't accurate unless it's been calibrated recently. I love mine but goodness it's a picky little bastard. Rule of thumb is tune with a Mustang, brag with DJet. I can't remember if the primary cam sprockets are bolted or pressed onto these motors. If somone here can chime in with this answer I can tell you whether or not the pickup was incorrectly set by the machine shop. The pickup for the CMP is cast into the sprocket. If it's bolted and keyed - HIGHLY unlikely the sprocket shifted and I would STRONGLY recommend you double check your base valve timing. If it's a press-on and the machine shop had it off for some reason - it very well could be sending BS to the PCM but that would also conclude that your base timing is off because you use marks on that sproket to set base timing. So pretty much however you crack this egg your timing is off. Any other source of RFI such as that from an ignition coil or other aftermarket electronics could very well set your CMP code but they should not result in any driveability issue like this. Are your CMP circuits still twisted 1 twist per inch and covered with a grounded metallic shield? Your issue SCREAMS base timing off. Textbook example, actually. A difference in compression between the two banks will confirm this with 100% certainty. I'm guessing the intake cam(s) aren't phased to the exhaust correctly. Setting the main chains on these motors is so stupid simple I'd be shocked if anyone with any sort of skill (your dad) could screw it up. [/QUOTE]
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Help please! P0340 code; common problems have been ruled out!
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