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How does cooling work?
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<blockquote data-quote="Cobra Jet" data-source="post: 16602532" data-attributes="member: 127353"><p>The lack of the lower air dam and associated side shrouds is causing issues for cooling. The lower air dam forces cool air upwards towards the front of the core support, while the top rad cover and side shrouds directed air towards the A/C condenser (IF it were still in place) and through to the radiator. Without the lower dam, top cover and side shrouds, the air isn’t passing directly over the radiator as designed.</p><p></p><p>Some will argue against the above saying it doesn’t matter since you have removed the A/C condenser and the fact that you’re running a different radiator. The problem is, the lower dam, top cover and shrouds served a purpose to direct the air into the core support, over the radiator. Without them, the air is not being streamlined directly over the radiator when in motion.</p><p></p><p>Factory fan turn on was in the 208*-210* range, so if you’re data logging those temp ranges and seeing the fan kick on, you’re within spec.</p><p></p><p>At highway speed, the fan shouldn’t even be on - UNLESS you have the Defroster on OR A/C on. If the HVAC knob for Defroster or A/C is selected, the fan would turn on - it’s by design. The fan would click on and off to cool the radiator but also to keep air moving over the condenser, since you don’t have a A/C condenser anymore, that aspect doesn’t matter... BUT if you’re still using the factory fan with CCRM hooked up, and you use Defrost OR A/C mode, the fan will still click on at speed or idle.</p><p></p><p></p><p>1994+ Mustangs have the CCRM (constant control relay module), which is the larger black module with the large connector going into it. This housed the relays for the fuel pump as well as the relays for the factory fan. If the car still has the CCRM and you’re having issues with the fan, it could be a failing or failed relay within the CCRM. This module was like a 5”x3” black metal box, with a very large connector and was normally located on the passenger side, near the back side of the core support.</p><p></p><p>Also, check the connector from the engine harness to the factory fan. IIRC, there was a Ford TSB a ways back for the electrical connector that plugged into the fan. That connector would melt or burn up, causing damage to the fan connectors. You’d have to pull the connector off the fan to check for bridging or melting of the connector on the harness OR at the actual input for the connector on the fan. Any damages, replace the fan OR the connector on the harness.</p><p></p><p>Another misconception with the thermostat on the OBD Mustangs is the “turn on” and “turn off” for the fan is programmed into the PCM logic, it’s not working by thermostat temps. You can put a lower thermostat in, but it’s not going to matter because the fan is still going to kick on/off based on the PCM logic. </p><p></p><p>If you want the fan to be “controlled” more, you either have to get a tuner device to change it, a pre-canned tune from a Pro Tuner Shop or have someone that can modify the PCM factory fan turn on/off parameters.</p><p></p><p>The only other way around the factory fan on/off logic is to completely bypass out the PCM and CCRM and install an electric fan thermostatic switch that the user can program (dial in) their own on/off setting for the fan. </p><p></p><p>On my 94 Cobra, I’m running dual 10” SPAL puller fans with a Hayden dual fan controller. My PCM and CCRM is completely bypassed for the fans. The fans are wired directly to the Hayden controller and dialed in for a predetermined on/off based on my factory 190* thermostat.</p><p></p><p>Be careful running “cooler” thermostats other than factory as well. If the thermostat is too cool it can actually cause more detrimental issues to the engine especially during long term use. There’s plenty of docs and facts online about this, so I’m not going to get into it here - easily googable... The skinny is, factory thermostats at factory recommended temps are perfect and operate better as designed, than the ages old myths that putting in a “colder” thermostat is better. Back in the initial stages of the original Mustang 5.0 movement of the 80’s-90’s, many were using 160* stats, it as the rage back then, but come to find out years later - it’s not the best mod to do and doesn’t serve any gains on any street car, especially N/A.</p><p></p><p>Make sure your electric fan is also spinning in correct direction, it should be pulling air through the radiator, not pushing it. To test, put tissue on front of radiator or grill, get fan to kick on and it should suck the tissue into front of grille or radiator. </p><p></p><p>The 1996+ Cobras are a bitch to “burp” air from after any cooling system repairs or upgrades, due to the cross over tube design... I know as I also owned a prior 1996 Cobra.</p><p></p><p>I always used this advice here when burping 1996+ Cobras and it’s always worked flawlessly (note image shows a 03/04 Cobra engine but it works for any prior Cobra back to 1996):</p><p><a href="https://www.reischeperformance.com/refill.html" target="_blank">Ford 4.6L DOHC Coolant Refill & Burp Procedure by Reische Performance Products</a></p><p></p><p>I hope something above helps.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Cobra Jet, post: 16602532, member: 127353"] The lack of the lower air dam and associated side shrouds is causing issues for cooling. The lower air dam forces cool air upwards towards the front of the core support, while the top rad cover and side shrouds directed air towards the A/C condenser (IF it were still in place) and through to the radiator. Without the lower dam, top cover and side shrouds, the air isn’t passing directly over the radiator as designed. Some will argue against the above saying it doesn’t matter since you have removed the A/C condenser and the fact that you’re running a different radiator. The problem is, the lower dam, top cover and shrouds served a purpose to direct the air into the core support, over the radiator. Without them, the air is not being streamlined directly over the radiator when in motion. Factory fan turn on was in the 208*-210* range, so if you’re data logging those temp ranges and seeing the fan kick on, you’re within spec. At highway speed, the fan shouldn’t even be on - UNLESS you have the Defroster on OR A/C on. If the HVAC knob for Defroster or A/C is selected, the fan would turn on - it’s by design. The fan would click on and off to cool the radiator but also to keep air moving over the condenser, since you don’t have a A/C condenser anymore, that aspect doesn’t matter... BUT if you’re still using the factory fan with CCRM hooked up, and you use Defrost OR A/C mode, the fan will still click on at speed or idle. 1994+ Mustangs have the CCRM (constant control relay module), which is the larger black module with the large connector going into it. This housed the relays for the fuel pump as well as the relays for the factory fan. If the car still has the CCRM and you’re having issues with the fan, it could be a failing or failed relay within the CCRM. This module was like a 5”x3” black metal box, with a very large connector and was normally located on the passenger side, near the back side of the core support. Also, check the connector from the engine harness to the factory fan. IIRC, there was a Ford TSB a ways back for the electrical connector that plugged into the fan. That connector would melt or burn up, causing damage to the fan connectors. You’d have to pull the connector off the fan to check for bridging or melting of the connector on the harness OR at the actual input for the connector on the fan. Any damages, replace the fan OR the connector on the harness. Another misconception with the thermostat on the OBD Mustangs is the “turn on” and “turn off” for the fan is programmed into the PCM logic, it’s not working by thermostat temps. You can put a lower thermostat in, but it’s not going to matter because the fan is still going to kick on/off based on the PCM logic. If you want the fan to be “controlled” more, you either have to get a tuner device to change it, a pre-canned tune from a Pro Tuner Shop or have someone that can modify the PCM factory fan turn on/off parameters. The only other way around the factory fan on/off logic is to completely bypass out the PCM and CCRM and install an electric fan thermostatic switch that the user can program (dial in) their own on/off setting for the fan. On my 94 Cobra, I’m running dual 10” SPAL puller fans with a Hayden dual fan controller. My PCM and CCRM is completely bypassed for the fans. The fans are wired directly to the Hayden controller and dialed in for a predetermined on/off based on my factory 190* thermostat. Be careful running “cooler” thermostats other than factory as well. If the thermostat is too cool it can actually cause more detrimental issues to the engine especially during long term use. There’s plenty of docs and facts online about this, so I’m not going to get into it here - easily googable... The skinny is, factory thermostats at factory recommended temps are perfect and operate better as designed, than the ages old myths that putting in a “colder” thermostat is better. Back in the initial stages of the original Mustang 5.0 movement of the 80’s-90’s, many were using 160* stats, it as the rage back then, but come to find out years later - it’s not the best mod to do and doesn’t serve any gains on any street car, especially N/A. Make sure your electric fan is also spinning in correct direction, it should be pulling air through the radiator, not pushing it. To test, put tissue on front of radiator or grill, get fan to kick on and it should suck the tissue into front of grille or radiator. The 1996+ Cobras are a bitch to “burp” air from after any cooling system repairs or upgrades, due to the cross over tube design... I know as I also owned a prior 1996 Cobra. I always used this advice here when burping 1996+ Cobras and it’s always worked flawlessly (note image shows a 03/04 Cobra engine but it works for any prior Cobra back to 1996): [URL='https://www.reischeperformance.com/refill.html']Ford 4.6L DOHC Coolant Refill & Burp Procedure by Reische Performance Products[/URL] I hope something above helps. [/QUOTE]
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