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Mustang Forums
2011-2014 Mustangs
Engine/Tuning
How much power can these new 5.0 motors handle?
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<blockquote data-quote="slagburn" data-source="post: 11997127" data-attributes="member: 124038"><p>Not trying to add to any paranoia at all but engine issues aren't cheap. Most don't catch a rod before it fails completely which will normally destroy the block. Enough of a bend can twist the piston into the wall and cause bore damage. Likewise, at the bottom of the rod a twist can side load it and dig into the side of the crank journal. A guy could just put a set of rods in but the motor would need to be disassembled and balanced for them. Then why put stock pistons back in, they won't take much abuse. In a well tuned engine they will live a long time if kept out of det, mine looked perfect.</p><p></p><p>If someone had a perfect condition stock motor you could just put in rods and pistons, balanced to your crank, skip the ARP hardware and throw in some oil pump gears and Boss valve springs for maybe 2500 doing everything yourself. That is assuming you can get stock bore forged pistons that fit exactly to your bore size, we're talking a within a half thousandth of an inch ideal dimension. My bores were fine but I opted for a slight oversize to get a fresh surface for the rings, not ball honed. When you bore there needs to be torque plates involved. They're not cheap and your local machine shop probably doesn't have one for a Coyote.</p><p></p><p>It kind of makes a complete engine or shortblock sound appealing instead of accumulating parts from various vendors and then waiting for a machine shop. You know for a fact that when the big crate shows up that the battle is almost over instead of waiting for this, and that, running parts all over town. But some people enjoy that.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="slagburn, post: 11997127, member: 124038"] Not trying to add to any paranoia at all but engine issues aren't cheap. Most don't catch a rod before it fails completely which will normally destroy the block. Enough of a bend can twist the piston into the wall and cause bore damage. Likewise, at the bottom of the rod a twist can side load it and dig into the side of the crank journal. A guy could just put a set of rods in but the motor would need to be disassembled and balanced for them. Then why put stock pistons back in, they won't take much abuse. In a well tuned engine they will live a long time if kept out of det, mine looked perfect. If someone had a perfect condition stock motor you could just put in rods and pistons, balanced to your crank, skip the ARP hardware and throw in some oil pump gears and Boss valve springs for maybe 2500 doing everything yourself. That is assuming you can get stock bore forged pistons that fit exactly to your bore size, we're talking a within a half thousandth of an inch ideal dimension. My bores were fine but I opted for a slight oversize to get a fresh surface for the rings, not ball honed. When you bore there needs to be torque plates involved. They're not cheap and your local machine shop probably doesn't have one for a Coyote. It kind of makes a complete engine or shortblock sound appealing instead of accumulating parts from various vendors and then waiting for a machine shop. You know for a fact that when the big crate shows up that the battle is almost over instead of waiting for this, and that, running parts all over town. But some people enjoy that. [/QUOTE]
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2011-2014 Mustangs
Engine/Tuning
How much power can these new 5.0 motors handle?
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