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2011-2014 Mustangs
Exhaust
How-to for Kooks Header install?
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<blockquote data-quote="Chuck@Evolution" data-source="post: 12421310" data-attributes="member: 104216"><p>What was up with your 1 7/8 header install. I do them all the time with no issues.</p><p> </p><p>To the OP, I did a quick write up for someone on how to do the header install a while ago over on s197. I copied and pasted it here for you. Let me know if you have any questions.</p><p> </p><p> </p><p>K frame removal.</p><p></p><p>Disconnect and remove the battery and tray.</p><p></p><p>Remove front wheels.</p><p></p><p>Unbolt the 15mm nuts on the motor mounts.</p><p></p><p>Remove the 2 under trays.</p><p></p><p>Remove tie rod bolts and tie rods from hub assembly. Using a torch on the hub where the tie rod goes helps alot, and during reassembly I put a little anti seize on the tie rod end.</p><p></p><p>Remove bolt and nut from ball joint. A little anti seize on the ball joint and bolt during reassembly will aid in disassembly in the future if you put some miles on the car.</p><p></p><p>Remove the 13 mm bolt from the steering shaft knuckle.</p><p></p><p>Remove the cross brace back by the bell housing.</p><p></p><p>Unclip the 2 electrical connectors at the steering rack.</p><p></p><p>Remove 2 of the 18mm bolts at the rear of the k frame.</p><p></p><p>Support the engine in your preferred manner. I use a pole jack with a block of wood under the oil pan.</p><p></p><p>Remove the 2 rear ward nuts at the front of the k frame.</p><p></p><p>Support the k frame.</p><p></p><p>Remove the last 2 bolts at the rear of the k frame.</p><p></p><p>Remove the final 2 nuts at the front of the k frame.</p><p></p><p>Carefully lower and set aside the k frame.</p><p></p><p>Remove starter and set aside.</p><p></p><p>Remove nut on passenger side motor mount bracket holding ground wire and nut holding tranny cooler lines if auto. Carefully pull ground wire and bracket out of the way.</p><p></p><p>Remove 4 bolts holding motor mount brackets on each side. Remember where studded bolts go for reassembly.</p><p></p><p>Remove 8 nuts on each side holding headers. Be careful of the top front most on the passenger side where it is behind the AC line. Using a ratcheting box end here is probably the best option. I have seen what happens when you try to pry the line back a little, and it is messy. (No, I didn't do it)</p><p></p><p>Depending on your header choice, it may be necessary to remove the manifold studs as well.</p><p></p><p>Install your headers. Contrary to popular belief, it is not necessary to install O2 extenders for the front O2s on the 5.0, and I strongly recommend against is, as I have not seen a single extender that works very well. For whatever reason, the connectors do not lock together very well, and I know of at least one instance where the extender has been blamed for a blown engine. If you release the plastic connector at the top of the bell housing where the wire harness crosses over the tranny, you will have enough slack in the harness to reach the drivers side O2 fine.</p><p></p><p>The rear O2s sometimes require extension, and if necessary, I will cut the harness side (not the O2 wires themselves, but the engine harness) and solder in wires to extend the harness enough. If you are running catless, then rear O2s are not even necessary and the bungs can be plugged.</p><p></p><p>Reinstall mount brackets, starter, and k frame in reverse order of disassembly. Reinstall battery. Flash car with new tune. ENJOY!</p><p><!-- / message --><!-- sig --></p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Chuck@Evolution, post: 12421310, member: 104216"] What was up with your 1 7/8 header install. I do them all the time with no issues. To the OP, I did a quick write up for someone on how to do the header install a while ago over on s197. I copied and pasted it here for you. Let me know if you have any questions. K frame removal. Disconnect and remove the battery and tray. Remove front wheels. Unbolt the 15mm nuts on the motor mounts. Remove the 2 under trays. Remove tie rod bolts and tie rods from hub assembly. Using a torch on the hub where the tie rod goes helps alot, and during reassembly I put a little anti seize on the tie rod end. Remove bolt and nut from ball joint. A little anti seize on the ball joint and bolt during reassembly will aid in disassembly in the future if you put some miles on the car. Remove the 13 mm bolt from the steering shaft knuckle. Remove the cross brace back by the bell housing. Unclip the 2 electrical connectors at the steering rack. Remove 2 of the 18mm bolts at the rear of the k frame. Support the engine in your preferred manner. I use a pole jack with a block of wood under the oil pan. Remove the 2 rear ward nuts at the front of the k frame. Support the k frame. Remove the last 2 bolts at the rear of the k frame. Remove the final 2 nuts at the front of the k frame. Carefully lower and set aside the k frame. Remove starter and set aside. Remove nut on passenger side motor mount bracket holding ground wire and nut holding tranny cooler lines if auto. Carefully pull ground wire and bracket out of the way. Remove 4 bolts holding motor mount brackets on each side. Remember where studded bolts go for reassembly. Remove 8 nuts on each side holding headers. Be careful of the top front most on the passenger side where it is behind the AC line. Using a ratcheting box end here is probably the best option. I have seen what happens when you try to pry the line back a little, and it is messy. (No, I didn't do it) Depending on your header choice, it may be necessary to remove the manifold studs as well. Install your headers. Contrary to popular belief, it is not necessary to install O2 extenders for the front O2s on the 5.0, and I strongly recommend against is, as I have not seen a single extender that works very well. For whatever reason, the connectors do not lock together very well, and I know of at least one instance where the extender has been blamed for a blown engine. If you release the plastic connector at the top of the bell housing where the wire harness crosses over the tranny, you will have enough slack in the harness to reach the drivers side O2 fine. The rear O2s sometimes require extension, and if necessary, I will cut the harness side (not the O2 wires themselves, but the engine harness) and solder in wires to extend the harness enough. If you are running catless, then rear O2s are not even necessary and the bungs can be plugged. Reinstall mount brackets, starter, and k frame in reverse order of disassembly. Reinstall battery. Flash car with new tune. ENJOY! <!-- / message --><!-- sig --> [/QUOTE]
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How-to for Kooks Header install?
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