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The Terminator
How-To
How to make your own clutch freeplay kit
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<blockquote data-quote="speedoflife" data-source="post: 15512573" data-attributes="member: 153267"><p>I can't figure out how to edit my post on my phone so:</p><p></p><p>Also, I used two COPPER C x FPT adapters in place of the PVC used here for my free play kit. Just google the words "copper c x fpt" and you'll see how the spring just slides over the end of the adapters. It also adds length to the free play unit, which makes that shorter spring possible to use. </p><p></p><p>In addition, I believe that someone has mentioned it but a FRPP TOB installed and adjusted such that it never stops spinning is, I believe, the right answer. Here is a copy/paste my from my post in that thread. </p><p>"I personally think that the ultimate TOB life is given by keeping it TOTALLY off the fingers. The next best is to have slight constant pressure. The worst is somewhere in between which causes friction on the lip of the TOB as it constantly comes on and off the fingers which heats it and boom."</p><p>I have come to believe over time that the constant engagement and disengagement between the PP fingers and the TOB is what heats and kills them. The clutch and flywheel surface (or brake pad and rotor surfaces) are meant to fully engage and disengage repeatedly. That's why they have a high friction, wearable compound as part of their construction. PP fingers = metal. TOB lip (the portion that contacts the fingers) = metal. These two surfaces are fine if there is static friction between them. When that friction turns kinetic during the brief moments of engagement and disengagement, it heats the TOB drastically and I think these heat cycles are what kills them. </p><p>I've had the PP fingers have slight constant pressure (even at full clutch engagement) for about 5k miles and [knock on wood] have had no noises or problems. The trick is to not mutilate the TOB with too much pressure while keeping the two surfaces in contact with each other. </p><p></p><p>In theory.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="speedoflife, post: 15512573, member: 153267"] I can't figure out how to edit my post on my phone so: Also, I used two COPPER C x FPT adapters in place of the PVC used here for my free play kit. Just google the words "copper c x fpt" and you'll see how the spring just slides over the end of the adapters. It also adds length to the free play unit, which makes that shorter spring possible to use. In addition, I believe that someone has mentioned it but a FRPP TOB installed and adjusted such that it never stops spinning is, I believe, the right answer. Here is a copy/paste my from my post in that thread. "I personally think that the ultimate TOB life is given by keeping it TOTALLY off the fingers. The next best is to have slight constant pressure. The worst is somewhere in between which causes friction on the lip of the TOB as it constantly comes on and off the fingers which heats it and boom." I have come to believe over time that the constant engagement and disengagement between the PP fingers and the TOB is what heats and kills them. The clutch and flywheel surface (or brake pad and rotor surfaces) are meant to fully engage and disengage repeatedly. That's why they have a high friction, wearable compound as part of their construction. PP fingers = metal. TOB lip (the portion that contacts the fingers) = metal. These two surfaces are fine if there is static friction between them. When that friction turns kinetic during the brief moments of engagement and disengagement, it heats the TOB drastically and I think these heat cycles are what kills them. I've had the PP fingers have slight constant pressure (even at full clutch engagement) for about 5k miles and [knock on wood] have had no noises or problems. The trick is to not mutilate the TOB with too much pressure while keeping the two surfaces in contact with each other. In theory. [/QUOTE]
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How to make your own clutch freeplay kit
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