I am getting ready to lower my car. I am wondering if anyone wrote a nice how to? I tried the search and nothing really. Anyone have a link ect?
Thanks
Ralph
Thanks
Ralph
I would like a step by step How to lower your car!
- Thread starter cpu77
- Start date
subscribing
Step 1
PM John (WS6JJP) and ask him when he can do it, I'll be there too.
Step 2 Drive on up here or maybe we can come down to see you
Seriously Ralph, drop John a line and he can give you the step by step it's really pretty easy. You will need a spring compressor (the inside the spring type) and an air compressor.
Hec
PM John (WS6JJP) and ask him when he can do it, I'll be there too.
Step 2 Drive on up here or maybe we can come down to see you
Seriously Ralph, drop John a line and he can give you the step by step it's really pretty easy. You will need a spring compressor (the inside the spring type) and an air compressor.
Hec
disregard the statement about a spring compressor and air compressor....they wont be needed....well, the air compressor can come in handy with some air tools! thats it...i already wrote a step by step on the rears....do a search under my name in the terminator suspension forum. for the fronts....
jack front of car up 2ft and place on jacks stands. place the jack stands on the subframe behind the tires so they do not get in the way. remove tires. remove brake calipers (2 15mm bolts which are usually on pretty tight). zip-ty them out of the way. remove rotors. use flat blade screw driver to remove the rotor retainers on 2 of the lugs. remove tie-rod end link cotter pin and nut (18mm). if you dont have a tierod expander tool then turn the nut upside down and screw it back on flush and use a hammer to knock it lose. remove swaybar endlink top nut (15mm). you may have to hold backup on the bottom of the end link as well. place jack under a-arm and jack up enough to just get the weight off of it. remove ABS sensor (1/4" socket is what i use). pull it free from its plastic straps and move it up with the brake caliper out of the way. remove ABS bracket off bottom of strut. remove lower strut bolts (22 & 24mm i believe). carefully lower the a-arm with the jack. just take your time lowering it. once lowered all the way, remove jack and push a-arm down and use pry bar to remove stock spring. place isolators on new spring. make sure to put the coil end back in its groove on the bottom. look at the a-arm and you will see what i am talking about. put top in first and push a-arm down and get the rear-bottom of the new spring into its place. it should stay once its is there. lift a-arm and put jack under and jack up while having someone guide the swaybar endlink back into its hole. line up the lower strut bolts and retorque. then just follow the reverse of above to reinstall. piece of cake. the fronts should take 1 hour with 2 people and the rears should take 45mins with 2 people. you may have to use a C-clamp to spread the pads back out to get them over the rotors. be careful on your test drive as you wont have brakes for a few sec until the pump up....
jack front of car up 2ft and place on jacks stands. place the jack stands on the subframe behind the tires so they do not get in the way. remove tires. remove brake calipers (2 15mm bolts which are usually on pretty tight). zip-ty them out of the way. remove rotors. use flat blade screw driver to remove the rotor retainers on 2 of the lugs. remove tie-rod end link cotter pin and nut (18mm). if you dont have a tierod expander tool then turn the nut upside down and screw it back on flush and use a hammer to knock it lose. remove swaybar endlink top nut (15mm). you may have to hold backup on the bottom of the end link as well. place jack under a-arm and jack up enough to just get the weight off of it. remove ABS sensor (1/4" socket is what i use). pull it free from its plastic straps and move it up with the brake caliper out of the way. remove ABS bracket off bottom of strut. remove lower strut bolts (22 & 24mm i believe). carefully lower the a-arm with the jack. just take your time lowering it. once lowered all the way, remove jack and push a-arm down and use pry bar to remove stock spring. place isolators on new spring. make sure to put the coil end back in its groove on the bottom. look at the a-arm and you will see what i am talking about. put top in first and push a-arm down and get the rear-bottom of the new spring into its place. it should stay once its is there. lift a-arm and put jack under and jack up while having someone guide the swaybar endlink back into its hole. line up the lower strut bolts and retorque. then just follow the reverse of above to reinstall. piece of cake. the fronts should take 1 hour with 2 people and the rears should take 45mins with 2 people. you may have to use a C-clamp to spread the pads back out to get them over the rotors. be careful on your test drive as you wont have brakes for a few sec until the pump up....
rears...
http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/showthread.php?t=165904
DO NOT use a spring compressor. takes much longer. seriously.
http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/showthread.php?t=165904
DO NOT use a spring compressor. takes much longer. seriously.
Here is a nice write up for install of Kenny Brown springs on a 99 Cobra. Should be the same.
http://www.lx.net/jlynch/kbspring.htm
Cheers.
:beer:
http://www.lx.net/jlynch/kbspring.htm
Cheers.
:beer:
Thanks davbrucas- that will help greatly when I put mine on later this week.
Thanks Guys!
Hec,
Stop volunteering Jon to do work
Anyhow I think I can handle this will let you know if I run in to a snag. I also have MM cc Plates. Which seem confusing to install but I will figure it out.
Hec,
Stop volunteering Jon to do work
Anyhow I think I can handle this will let you know if I run in to a snag. I also have MM cc Plates. Which seem confusing to install but I will figure it out.Users who are viewing this thread
