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The Terminator
Driveline
IRS on a 1000HP car?
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<blockquote data-quote="SlowSVT" data-source="post: 11385036" data-attributes="member: 20202"><p>Ford had the 2.3 liter engine very much in mind when they designed the Fox chassis and to achieve that metal was used very sparingly. If you remove the passenger interior side panels you will see how much sheet metal was removed from the stamping (that means the quarter panel is assuming more of the structural load). On the Fox-4 that same panel is more or less solid. That is just one example but I think you get the picture.</p><p> </p><p>Not sure what brand of sub-frames you are running but the best ones are made by Hans and Global West.</p><p></p><p>Better yet, have them custom made out of thinner wall 4130 Chromemolly steel (maybe .060 - .093”) and fashion them after the Hans with the trellis framework or augment what you have. With some .050" thk 4130 sheet you can tie them into torque boxes and into the font frame rails. That would go a long way to stiffen the chassis and reduce metal fatigue. Avoid coilovers unless you beef up the shock towers as they are not designed to carry the weight of the car. I’m not a big fan of roll bars because they can actually increase the likelihood of injury should your body get slammed into the hard metal tubing (the DOT would never certify a car with a roll bar for this reason). Pretty much makes it a race car where a 5 point harness and helmet is recommended.</p><p></p><p>If you do any welding be real mindful of corrosion and make sure you can get to any area where the paint has been burned off. Use “weldable” primer on exposed metal prior to welding if you can’t get to it after it’s been welded to the chassis (the stuff holds up very well to the heat).</p><p> </p><p>If you go with the IRS consider a torque biasing posi carrier like a Torsen T2R over the Eaton Trac-Loc which acts more like a light switch transferring the power from one wheel to the other. My Terminator would “skip” sideways a little in a lazy corner at part throttle from the Trac-Lok intermittently engaging. Keep in mind with a Torsen your days of 4000 rpm clutch dumps and slicks are over. I rarely shock my driveline so I’m not losing sleep over it. FTBR also offers upgrade toe link bars which will make it hold the toe settings better under braking and acceleration.</p><p></p><p>Here is some eye candy. Note how the rear cover is plumbed for an oil cooler. Just imagine the cornering speeds this one will allow with the wheels de-cambered 2° <img src="data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7" class="smilie smilie--sprite smilie--sprite9" alt=":eek:" title="Eek! :eek:" loading="lazy" data-shortname=":eek:" /> </p><p></p><p><img src="http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j215/SlowSVT/CobraIRSonshopfloor4.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="SlowSVT, post: 11385036, member: 20202"] Ford had the 2.3 liter engine very much in mind when they designed the Fox chassis and to achieve that metal was used very sparingly. If you remove the passenger interior side panels you will see how much sheet metal was removed from the stamping (that means the quarter panel is assuming more of the structural load). On the Fox-4 that same panel is more or less solid. That is just one example but I think you get the picture. Not sure what brand of sub-frames you are running but the best ones are made by Hans and Global West. Better yet, have them custom made out of thinner wall 4130 Chromemolly steel (maybe .060 - .093”) and fashion them after the Hans with the trellis framework or augment what you have. With some .050" thk 4130 sheet you can tie them into torque boxes and into the font frame rails. That would go a long way to stiffen the chassis and reduce metal fatigue. Avoid coilovers unless you beef up the shock towers as they are not designed to carry the weight of the car. I’m not a big fan of roll bars because they can actually increase the likelihood of injury should your body get slammed into the hard metal tubing (the DOT would never certify a car with a roll bar for this reason). Pretty much makes it a race car where a 5 point harness and helmet is recommended. If you do any welding be real mindful of corrosion and make sure you can get to any area where the paint has been burned off. Use “weldable” primer on exposed metal prior to welding if you can’t get to it after it’s been welded to the chassis (the stuff holds up very well to the heat). If you go with the IRS consider a torque biasing posi carrier like a Torsen T2R over the Eaton Trac-Loc which acts more like a light switch transferring the power from one wheel to the other. My Terminator would “skip” sideways a little in a lazy corner at part throttle from the Trac-Lok intermittently engaging. Keep in mind with a Torsen your days of 4000 rpm clutch dumps and slicks are over. I rarely shock my driveline so I’m not losing sleep over it. FTBR also offers upgrade toe link bars which will make it hold the toe settings better under braking and acceleration. Here is some eye candy. Note how the rear cover is plumbed for an oil cooler. Just imagine the cornering speeds this one will allow with the wheels de-cambered 2° :eek: [img] http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j215/SlowSVT/CobraIRSonshopfloor4.jpg[/img] [/QUOTE]
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